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Narrow Gauge Beginnings - getting started in HOn30 and H0e


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I didn’t expect to progress my layout over the winter, as there’s still quite a bit of ‘outdoor’ work to finish the baseboards ready for track laying.  But rather than start the long list of indoor modelling projects I have waiting for me, I’ve been through one of the periodic losses of momentum we can all experience.  In my case the reason was obvious - I was still spending as much time as ever on railway modelling, but using it all looking at different layout ideas, and specifically at continuous run schemes.  In the end I bit the bullet and re-shaped my third baseboard into a handy ‘carry-on’ size 800mm x 600mm that gives a compact table top baseboard 1.8m x 0.8m:

 

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While I know my layout options won’t be as good as the rather nice end-to-end design I had settled on, my mojo has now returned.  To get back into things, I’ve put together the single plank wagon I was given as a freebie on joining the 009 Society:

 

2BA0F081-B77A-46DC-A1B1-4324AC331699.jpeg.c2a6a521a61649aee3bd9b2421d90bb2.jpeg

 

I’ve not yet painted the underframes, but I mainly wanted to have a go at this to see how I got on fitting couplers (the kit doesn’t include any, so you can fit whichever sort you choose).  I did need to cut away part of the buffer beam to match the height with the GR-106 bogie I used for reference.

 

6AF01FF3-386A-40B7-9FA8-4AE3E19D2267.jpeg.9ab8cb7f02bef3fe108d2ff1bc635bd8.jpeg

 

Take care and stay safe, Keith.

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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C897EC3B-E663-41B9-8E52-20F729D37E92.jpeg.a409da188e91d6b9dc653691dc9840b3.jpeg

 

 

The finished wagon - taking photos of this diminutive model (3cm x 2cm + coupling) is as challenging as painting it!
 

F9FEFC29-83EB-47CD-9080-326FB516806A.jpeg.309834670992d152c7d739dc7195f620.jpeg

 

The weathering is just a thin wash of the darker grey used for the metal corner plates to make it look a bit grubby: I can’t imagine a real wagon would stay clean beyond the first trip out from the workshop.  Have a good week, Keith.

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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Next out of the box is the Geep I stripped of paint a while back.  I want to tackle this next as a trial for applying primer using a Halfords’ rattle can - it will be second nature to many modellers, but is new to me.  I can afford to make a mess of this, but not the pair of NG Resin Locomotives I’ve got from the Merseyside and South West Lancs 009 Group (pictured previously in their unpainted state).

 

I have three options for this model - simply to repaint it as practice (in HO), to widen the cab into an On30 model (just for fun) or to convert it to 9mm gauge as an unpowered HOn30 unit.  Because it was originally rubber band driven (a long time ago), the trucks and axles are designed to be taken apart for fitting new rubber bands, so a gauge conversion could be done.  But this would mean modifying the metal bogies, which I’m not equipped to do though:

 

First step was to remove the metal handrails.  These have been well looked after, so were complete and not bent, and it was just a few minutes gentle prising with pliers at lunchtime to pop them out.  The plastic body is now ready for a wash:

 

 

6A2F25EF-AACB-43B3-88A5-014686D1E27A.jpeg.d3d9e4d7a5e770042e1df3320c4fd180.jpeg

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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A visit to the Merseyside and South West Lancs 009 Society meet today saw me come away with a trio of HOn30 24’ boxcar kits:

 

37169BC2-F43F-46FF-A150-97382AF7DDDC.jpeg.334f50d0b3dbb3245a35573e3f6d30a3.jpeg

 

I think they were originally Australian made “Puffing Billy” kits that would have been sold with cast metal chassis, but were being sold off cheap as ‘end of line’ I complete kits in need of plasticard floors, trucks and couplings (which I have).  Seemed like a good opportunity to try something.  I’ll also need to fashion some wire ladders and a high brake wheel (which could be the hardest bit).  Could be a nice project to tackle some time.

 

(The missing step from the right hand end of the top side in the photo is still in the packet)

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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Looking at the wide array of N-Gauge chassis on sale (and in use) at the Merseyside and South West Lancs 009 Society gathering yesterday prompted me to have a look at the unmade resin kits made by the Group for Kato 109 or 110 chassis that I have.  Mine both came with 110 chassis, so the first job has been to remove the buffers and railings and replace the standard ‘Arnold’ N-Gauge couplings with the Peco 009 ones I’m using.  As the original couplers are sprung mounted, they don’t come with NEM pockets, so I’ve needed to cut away part of the moulding at the end of the chassis so I can fit new coupler pockets at the right height.  That’s been this afternoon’s job:

 

E494820B-F728-4C17-8BED-9E2F8A625E5C.jpeg.243ace440035eff1deed29f104515a07.jpeg

 

With regard to the other builds I now have queued up, it’s most likely I’ll just repaint the HO Geep for practice, rather than try and modify the model.  I have plenty of other new techniques to try (as here).  

 

A couple of extra photos showing the body and modified chassis are the same length (fortunately):


8B903E71-8738-4733-968C-EEC1324FFB84.jpeg.303d4c37e50367a72804ee4bd6694464.jpeg

 

86207054-2A68-4231-AA28-0C7A1DD6FBE1.jpeg.04d1512aaed6e4d2708fda2a31fb66ff.jpeg


I’m not going to try cutting the resin this evening - better to leave the glue to set firmly on the couplers.  Have a good week, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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I know I’m going to make mistakes as I try new things, and this evening has been full of learning:

 

97CDE3F0-2FC0-4DEB-AF83-EEAF9665D484.jpeg.b1276b25031333b725e4c527cda8fe0f.jpeg
 

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Going from right to left in both the photos above:

  1. I found the wheels on the single plank wagon were hardly turning.
  2. The couplings I glued to the Kato chassis on Sunday hadn’t stuck.
  3. And when I tried to cut coupler mounting holes in the body of the saddle tank the resin shattered, front and back.

Some superglue, some fiddling around and some rearranging ensued:

  1. The sole bars on the wagon just needed gentle easing for the wheels to run freely again.
  2. The couplers on the saddle tank are now body mounted (although it did all get worse before it got better).
  3. I opted to cut away more of the plastic running plate on the Kato chassis to seat the body at the desired height:

9708BC3B-F7C6-4A56-B287-374AB3DA6B74.jpeg.6e1ece03b60b06e544b1b4ccdf608599.jpeg
 

96A0B79B-4AD6-409B-AAF9-45869CE7BC31.jpeg.4f844e184335b01d46699bc7b360efac.jpeg

 

Resin isn’t a material I’ve used before.  These are excellent quality castings, I just need to learn how to work with them.  The body is still loose on the chassis, but I’m now thinking I might fashion holding pieces from plasticard to keep it in place.  The saddle tank is a lovely little model, but a good one for me to practice on as it’s neither Austrian nor American, of course.

 

I’ll probably be having a few days away from modelling now, then some gentle cleaning up before painting will be needed, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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I think there’s resin and there’s resin. Bit ago I had two matching diesel bodyshell from America, one from the main suppliers, and one from a sort of subcontractors, and the one cracked badly when I looked at it, the other could be easily worked on.

still it looks as if you’ve sorted out well, stuff happens.

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On 01/12/2021 at 07:48, Northroader said:

I think there’s resin and there’s resin. Bit ago I had two matching diesel bodyshell from America, one from the main suppliers, and one from a sort of subcontractors, and the one cracked badly when I looked at it, the other could be easily worked on.

still it looks as if you’ve sorted out well, stuff happens.


Thanks - a useful insight.  As I understand it, the locos I’ve bought through the Merseyside and South West Lancs 009 Group are resin castings as opposed to 3D prints (I could be wrong on this).  They really are excellent kits, with minimal flashing / overspill (just a tiny bit which you can’t see under the raised boiler) and lots of fine, crisp detail - the backhead for the Saddle Tank is incredible, for example:

 

2F0EC4A4-2FCA-4864-8266-59D740D6B4FF.jpeg.420a1ca7298585d12d2445479be3bb27.jpeg

 

(exploded detail from an earlier photo)

 

From what I’ve read, the best way to cut this kind of resin is with a tiny jeweller’s saw and / or with guide holes made using a mini-drill. I’d tried gently and repeatedly scoring along my cut lines, but even trying to be careful it still cracked when I cut through.  I can see why modellers who regularly work with resin build up a collection of needle-point files and keep a supply of filler to hand.  Some fantastic results can be achieved, so it’s worth the effort and good fun learning.

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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I’m a firm advocate of regular test running where possible:

 

ED1A2616-06BF-4868-9849-3156BDFEB0B3.jpeg.d18dd46690448fff3c1b6489ef871620.jpeg

 

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The cab roof is not fixed at this point.  Note that, in the final photo, the train was actually shunting backwards at slow speed over the Peco Insulfrog point without any problems.  Three good things and three learning points.  Good things first:

 

1.  At normal viewing distance the tram engine skirts hide the Kato 11-110 chassis perfectly adequately for my purposes,

2.  Performance of the train is fine - the light wagon can be shunted through the point at slow speed without derailing.

3.  No problems with the Peco Insulfrog point.

 

And three learning points:

 

1.  The loose body on the tram engine wobbles out of position when going over the point, so does need to be held in place.

2.  The test track relies on fishplates for electrical conductivity.  Loose bits of grit are getting into the joints and affecting running (I suspect it is from loose bits of scenery and ballast that come off the layout when it is being put away upright).

3.  The scale difference between 009 and H0e is noticeable (which is why none of the photos are by the 3.5mm scale huts).

 

Have a good weekend, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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Cruel close-up time:

 

I’d originally planned to spray paint the locomotive with a Halford’s Grey Primer, but the ‘paint shop’ here is outside, and with today’s weather that was simply not an option.  The resin however takes paint very well, and even though I make no claims to be a painter, it’s been a joy to have a try.  The incredible detail on the backhead was really crying out to be picked out:


B94ECE67-A68F-4594-BD68-2928027B73E7.jpeg.30bce38f26f495f436f3b0c9c5b5e8bb.jpeg

 

(The faint horizontal lines from the casting are basically invisible at normal viewing distance - I’d not noticed them before!)

 

Livery choice was done using the traditional method of looking in the paint box to see what I have in stock - I recently bought a tin of red as I’d run out and it’s a generally useful colour to have, so that settled it:

 

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I’d not appreciated the finesse on the boiler top detail until I painted it - what I’d mistakenly thought was a rougher piece of casting miraculously turned out to be a very well rendered central spring - worth trying to highlight with a metallic brass:

 

Plenty of room for practice and improvement, but a more than satisfactory afternoon at the workbench for a novice like me.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
(Note, the second photo is a replacement - I did not keep a copy of those originally posted, sorry)
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I would normally working on a Sunday morning, but my enforced layoff has given me the chance to see the painted model in daylight.  The concept of weathering still rather terrifies me, but the choice of the rather bright choice Satin Red for the livery requires it.  I’ve therefore applied just a gentle wash to dull the tone.

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
(Text comment only - I did not keep a copy of the original photos shown previously)
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A few finishing touches have been added.  The satin red livery had seemed quite bright in the first pictures I took, so I’d added a second layer of wash (rather than risk spoiling it with a repaint).

 

AFAEC689-45F9-466A-9110-C24AB88BA68C.jpeg.94e3121f417ad2701c243f3b2f789d4e.jpeg

 

Inevitably, the handrails and decals took longer to add than I expected, so the light had gone by the time I glued the Loco together for a posed shot:

 

9970E568-B35D-460B-917D-2BFC82E253A2.jpeg.639c5fdb7908e1745327868779fc87c6.jpeg
 

All that remains to do now is to add some plasticard to the chassis to hold the body in place and I can call this finished.  I’m obviously happy with my progress over the weekend.  While there’s a lot I can do better, for a first attempt I’m more than satisfied with how it’s looking.  Have a good week, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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As this is my first working locomotive kit (in any scale / gauge), I hope I can be forgiven for posting more photos - they’ll be useful for me to refer back to later.  This one shows the plasticard strips to stop the body from wobbling.  This photo also shows how I cut down the chassis:

 

99250AFB-2D78-4147-9BA3-BD05F5514491.jpeg.825c70afa8d849d7d71121a3c18cb6c5.jpeg

 

I’ll paint the ‘crossbar’ I’ve fitted between the sandboxes, as it is visible at certain angles.  But I’m now calling this “finished”:

 

2317627C-BAAE-481C-B56A-6EC998C42F48.jpeg.87f423d595e2a57c75febb573a86256e.jpeg
 

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Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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On 08/12/2021 at 09:47, Hobby said:

That roof doesn't look right to me, I feel it needs to be bigger and overlap the edges. That said I'm not a fan of those Kato "tram" (word used in the loosest possible way!) locos in general.


Fair point - the photos of the prototype Stony Stratford Tram engine don’t show any big overhang, but the roof does overlap the edges exactly as you say - I’ve not seen photos of others that have been made from this kit, but I suspect I just sanded off a bit too much when smoothing the edges for painting (this being the first time I’ve used a resin kit: the roof edges were the first bit I tackled, so I may well have got a bit carried away :)).

 

For me however, I actually decided it was the red colour of the rest of it that was still troubling me - so it’s now black and awaiting re-weathering (or I could just put it outside for bit, given our weather today!)

D5DF7A04-AF16-40CA-AA45-A3C66D34A881.jpeg.96f7c10b108274d0176aeb096c96cc1e.jpeg
 

Part of the fun of having made this kit for myself is that I feel quite happy changing it - that’s new to me too.

 

 

As for using the Kato chassis, there was a good discussion on the NGRM Forum earlier this year which I found very informative (led by @Hobby ).  Having now had a go, my own take on it as a beginner is it’s given me a nice and very affordable “entry level” introduction to this kind of build, and a Loco with superb slow running qualities.

 

The question for me now though is, where next? (as @HonestTom suggests). 


The most dangerous time for projects on my ‘to do list’ is when I’m finishing a build / layout design / research discussion (select as applicable).  While I feel encouraged by completing something that’s turned out better than expected, and was more fun than I’d anticipated, my mind is now racing off in multiple directions: done that, what’s new, have you seen this, can I afford that…?

 

I guess that’s why more than one of my threads have been titled Adventure - I find there’s as much fun on the journey as there might be in actually getting anywhere…

 

…but I would still like to have a layout.  Until then, take care and stay safe, Keith.

 

7DC8278F-0801-4437-8516-BA3BC082151D.jpeg.5ddb36a6e4b3d6bb01bb5da605b6529d.jpeg

 

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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  • Keith Addenbrooke changed the title to A Narrow Gauge Adventure - getting started in H0e and HOn30
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Further to my post on Wednesday morning (8th Dec 2021 above), I’ve spent a bit of time having another review of where I’m at and where I really want to go next.  My next build is a non-railway kit I was given as a birthday present, so this is a good time to pause and take stock.  Re-reading page 1 of the thread, I note it splits almost exactly 50/50 between the start of the H0e layout (12 posts) and my first look at HOn30 rolling stock (13 posts).  That’s probably a fair reflection of my meanderings, so I’ve changed the thread title to reflect it.  I also have a number of HOn30 kits lined up - the 3 box car part-kits and repurposed 009 diesel shown previously, plus a kit for some shops (Walthers) I spotted half-price and still factory sealed.

 

But despite my good intentions (or perhaps because of them) I’ve not made so much progress with the H0e layout.  I’ve not had the kind of enforced major reset that previously scuppered my OO and then my HO layout plans, and I’ve been thoroughly enjoying finding out more about Austrian Narrow Gauge railways.  I’ve watched a lot of very relaxing videos! Only trouble is, I’ve started to feel I’ve ticked that box and am ready for the next chapter of the adventure, even though I’ve not built the layout.  I’ve got the same space, and the same baseboards in production, but I’m thinking it won’t be Austrian Liliput trains that run on them: that Chapter now draws to a peaceful close.  Take care, stay safe, and have a good weekend, Keith.

 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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On 11/12/2021 at 02:39, Keith Addenbrooke said:

I’ve started to feel I’ve ticked that box and am ready for the next chapter of the adventure, even though I’ve not built the layout

 

You're not the first to experience that :)

 

I sometimes wonder if it would be better to hold back a bit on all the research that we tend to do at the beginning of the project. It can mean that interest is exhausted too early on in the process. I.e. that we research and plan the project to death. Maybe there's a middle road, whereby we research things more piecemeal, one step at the time and focusing only on the immediate requirements? (Just thinking out loud here.)

 

Edited by Mikkel
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Just "get on and build it" scenario? It works if the subject is what you want to do but not if it isn't, in the latter case it is a waste of money and time. I don't feel Keith has wasted too much here, he's done his research and found that it's not for him, better now than when he has a half-finished model.

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On 12/12/2021 at 08:15, Mikkel said:

 

You're not the first to experience that :)

 

I sometimes wonder if it would be better to hold back a bit on all the research that we tend to do at the beginning of the project. It can mean that interest is exhausted too early on in the process. I.e. that we research and plan the project to death. Maybe there's a middle road, whereby we research things more piecemeal, one step at the time and focusing only on the immediate requirements? (Just thinking out loud here.)

 

 

On 12/12/2021 at 08:25, Hobby said:

Just "get on and build it" scenario? It works if the subject is what you want to do but not if it isn't, in the latter case it is a waste of money and time. I don't feel Keith has wasted too much here, he's done his research and found that it's not for him, better now than when he has a half-finished model.


Thank you. Interesting thoughts.  I certainly haven’t lost my enthusiasm for railway modelling or for Narrow Gauge.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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It’s certainly the case that one would want the excitement and enthusiasm to last throughout the build, and for a good while afterwards too, after all, it’s a considerable investment of time,and eventually money, in whatever we build.

 

a number of possible “DNF” are possible, loss of mojo is up there, but also finding that not planning leads up blind alleys, which a bit of forethought could have avoided, is a major disincentive to getting on with the project, when it suddenly becomes a case of “it’s easier to start again than fix…”.  
 

To fail to plan is to plan to fail.  Or some such wise words :)

 

So a vision of what you’re trying to achieve, a realistic target, a sensible plan allowing for time, space and money, and some milestones that you can congratulate yourself on when you pass them, all lead to maintained & renewed enthusiasm.

 

and I guess all of us are different - what’s realistic for one modeller might be trivial to another, and light years away to a third.   
 

and pending the house extension in which I will, hopefully, one day, build my layout, I keep building stock!

Edited by Simond
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On 11/12/2021 at 01:39, Keith Addenbrooke said:

I’ve got the same space, and the same baseboards in production, but I’m thinking it won’t be Austrian Liliput trains that run on them: that Chapter now draws to a peaceful close.


I can totally see where you’re coming from - there are lots of prototypes that I find incredibly interesting in themselves but wouldn’t actually want to model. Do you think you’ll do something in American H0n30 or British 009 now instead?

 

 I like the tram loco a lot. Its design is very British, contrasting with the black and silver livery and most of the accompanying stock which are more American, but all looks good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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52 minutes ago, Simond said:

It’s certainly the case that one would want the excitement and enthusiasm to last throughout the build, and for a good while afterwards too, after all, it’s a considerable investment of time,and eventually money, in whatever we build.

 

a number of possible “DNF” are possible, loss of mojo is up there, but also finding that not planning leads up blind alleys, which a bit of forethought could have avoided, is a major disincentive to getting on with the project, when it suddenly becomes a case of “it’s easier to start again than fix…”.  
 

To fail to plan is to plan to fail.  Or some such wise words :)

 

So a vision of what you’re trying to achieve, a realistic target, a sensible plan allowing for time, space and money, and some milestones that you can congratulate yourself on when you pass them, all lead to maintained & renewed enthusiasm.

 

and I guess all of us are different - what’s realistic for one modeller might be trivial to another, and light years away to a third.   
 

and pending the house extension in which I will, hopefully, one day, build my layout, I keep building stock!


Thanks Simon, some really good advice and well put - also good to know you’re building models.  If there is one thing I’d want to tell my younger self it would be to do just that: get some practice in, see what I enjoy most, don’t just daydream, doodle and build a bigger pile of stuff I’m bound to need one day :) (but which actually makes it harder to then get started on something simple).

 

29 minutes ago, 009 micro modeller said:


I can totally see where you’re coming from - there are lots of prototypes that I find incredibly interesting in themselves but wouldn’t actually want to model. Do you think you’ll do something in American H0n30 or British 009 now instead?

 

 I like the tram loco a lot. Its design is very British, contrasting with the black and silver livery and most of the accompanying stock which are more American, but all looks good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you - kind words.  


I have a non-railway kit to build at the moment, and some HOn30 builds lined up.  Having the simple scenic test circuit is proving great for when I just want to run a train, and is informing my thinking: what I’m thinking about for the next project will be simpler than I’d been planning previously, as I’ve found I’m quite happy with the most basic of layouts (a nice discovery, the result of having got started and finally built something, and in line with the approach @Simond suggests).  
 

I need to sell some stuff first, but I certainly have no plans to get bored!  Thanks, Keith.
 

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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