Narrow Gauge Beginnings - getting started in HOn30 and H0e

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Time to press on with my existing builds.  I must admit that making and attaching 72 grab irons for my three box cars (6 per side - including ends - per car) wasn’t something I was looking forwards to.  I’d saved the thin brass rod from some Dundas Coach kits to use (it was supplied for window bars, which I made with styrene instead):

 

 

 

I used superglue to attach the rods to the painted plastic, but couldn’t avoid making a gobby messes of a few of them.  At least they’re done now.  

 

Next step was to fit the roof to each car.  I discovered I’d omitted to paint one edge of them, so there as a delay while the red paint dried.  The edges were then dry brushed (after the photo was taken) to dull the red:

 

 

Having experienced problems with a standard gauge boxcar where I needed to remove a roof, I’m trying to fix these just at the ends, using Glue ‘n’ Glaze rather than cement as the adhesive.  Brake wheels are being donated from an old OO gauge station trolley from my bits box:

 

 

On to the flat cars.  Wooden sides were added to the second long car, and then the bases painted.  While it was standard practice to hold the sides in tension with metal rods between the stanchions, I’ve also seen photos of cars without them, so have done without (as with my Mk1 gondola):

 

 

I’ve gone for an olive yellow / green livery this time, based purely on the paint I have open and needing to use up.  End rails are a bit small - they were cut off a pair of Kato 11-110 chassis so are actually N-scale.  Given this, I attached the brake wheels to the sub-frames of these cars rather than the end rails, where they would be too low:

 

 

Bogies are simply clipped in place through pre-drilled holes and these two are done:

 

 

Finally, progress on the small flat car.  I only had one more end rail in stock - also a spare from Dundas Coach kits.  As this is to 4mm scale (albeit for a Ffestiniog-style coach), I could try and end rail brake wheel, again from a luggage trolley.  The brake wheel and rod are superglued in place: I’ll see tomorrow how well the glue has dried, or if a rework is needed!

 

 

The wine carrier tank has been glued in place, with a couple of wooden strips for stability.  My plan is to add cables as well, but I’m leaving things as they are to dry overnight now:

 

 

Unfortunately the writing on the other side is upside down, but after a few bottles of red, I don’t think anyone will mind.

 

Have a good week, Keith.

[Northroader]

With grab irons on plastic car sides, why don’t you make them from brass rod shaped into a staple, position them on the side with a coffee stirrer underneath at right angles, then apply a hot soldering iron. They just sink down into the side, and the stirrer stops them before they go too far. There may be just a little bubble of melted plastic round the base of each one to trim off, but I find it’s quite a good way to do it.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

14 minutes ago, Northroader said:

With grab irons on plastic car sides, why don’t you make them from brass rod shaped into a staple, position them on the side with a coffee stirrer underneath at right angles, then apply a hot soldering iron. They just sink down into the side, and the stirrer stops them before they go too far. There may be just a little bubble of melted plastic round the base of each one to trim off, but I find it’s quite a good way to do it.

 

Thank you - I would never have thought of anything like that.  As the grab iron fastening points on these scratch-aid kits are 5mm wide, a standard coffee stirrer is the right size too (maybe trim a little to allow for the width of the brass rod).  While it would be a shame to melt the moulded fastening points, the end result would be better: look closely and my irons are generally resting against the car sides, whereas they should be clear of the sides for finger / toe holds.

 

If I understand the technique correctly, the soldering iron is only pressed against the metal ‘staple’ - heat transfer does the rest?  I wouldn’t rate my chances trying to hold a soldering iron against plastic, however briefly.  Presumably a job to be done with the windows open?  Thanks for the suggestion, Keith.

[Northroader]

Yes, just a small amount of heat applied to the staple is all that’s needed, you’ll soon get the hang of it. You can just keep your head back from over it, so you’re not breathing any wisp of fumes, but the amount that’s produced is very low, you have a hard job to spifflicate yourself.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Next step with the tanker was to add cables which I superglued in place under the chassis then painted black:

 

 

The top inlet valve is a simple butterfly clip with the legs cut back and pressed into the cork.  I used enamel paint for the cork in case water-based acrylic causes the cork to swell.  Final step was to add some outlets taps pushed into holes made in the cork (N-Scale buffers saved from the same Kato 11-110 chassis mentioned previously). A dab of aluminium paint, reattach the bogies and we’re just about done:

 

 

When all the paint has dried thoroughly I can weather the tank to finish, Keith.

 

Edited October 17, 2023 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Mikkel]

I really like that Keith, wonderful creativity!

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Weathering - one of those aspects of modelling that does rather terrify me.  I figured the CAL tank car would be rather worn and dirty, so for the first time I’ve tried adding two layers of grime: first a simple base layer of light and dark grey:

 

 

This doesn’t look right as it stands - the dirt seems to avoid the edges and joins, whereas in reality that’s often where it gathers first.  The second coat of some indeterminate grimy green (actually olive yellow) remedies that and adds more on the top, where a tanker would probably be dirtiest:

 

 

I also tried representing some streaks down the lower sides using a thinner brush.  The technique is very simple - dry brushing which is then smeared a bit more with a piece of kitchen roll.  Happy to call this one finished now, Keith.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

Next up, finishing the boxcars.  The final task was to add the high brake wheels and (simplified) rods.  I started with some left over thin styrene rod which was glued in place then cut to size (just needed scissors).  Brake wheels are again trolley wheels from an old OO gauge luggage trolley I was given.  The styrene rod seemed OK for the longer down section, but I had my doubts about the top part even when I was gluing them in place.  After leaving them for the glue to dry they were still wobbly, so I used a 7mm (scale 2’) section of left over brass rod and superglue instead:

 

 

First attempt:

 

 

 

 

Second attempt:

 

 

And finished - just a touch of black paint and a dab of grey weathering before the Peco trucks were clipped back into place:

 

 

 

For a layout as small as the CAL, these freight cars (plus my Minitrains caboose) should be sufficient, at least for now:

 

 

Finishing the craftsman Church kit now moves to the top of the list.  Quite a lot to do on that still (mainly the roof).  Have a good weekend, Keith.

[JZ]

If you find the handbrake wheels to be too fragile, you could use some etched ones from Wizard Models and solder them to 0.5mm brass wire.

[JZ]

These might be of use for weathering. A couple of crops showing how boxcars weathered. In HO, it might be challenging and many just go for an all over wash.

[Keith Addenbrooke]

I’ve received a great deal of helpful advice and encouragement since I began trying my hand at Narrow Gauge modelling again in early 2021.  Today I had the chance to give something back, with a small display at our local 009 Society Group meeting.  I’ve never seen myself as a potential exhibitor - at any level - but this morning I carefully loaded the car boot with my complete collection of bubble wrap, a couple of my IKEA modelling tables and the collection of models that have been featured in this thread, and headed off:

 

 

The aim of my display was quite simple - to pass on my thanks for the help I’ve had, and to (hopefully) encourage others:

 

 

My thanks also to all here in the Narrow Gauge modelling Forum on RMweb for the encouragement too!

 

I made sure there was room on my tables for essential supplies, and sat down to enjoy a day talking model railways:

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of the afternoon, when the hall was less busy, I did tidy away the notices and ran a few trains to finish the day.

 

While I hadn’t managed to complete the Church kit in time for the exhibition, as a work-in-progress it proved to be quite a talking point, as did the variety in the models I have - while my flitting about from one project to another makes progress on my layout ideas difficult, today it was an advantage, as I had more to show than I’d realised.  A very nice day.

 

When I began this thread in April 2021, I had grand ideas for a first H0e layout.  I didn’t appreciate I was biting off more than I could chew at the time, but while my layout ideas have been simplified, it’s given me more time for trying some modelling, which I’ve discovered I enjoy far more than I thought I would.

 

Other than completing my Church kit (it’ll be done by Christmas, just don’t ask which year), I have actually now completed all the different things I wanted to try out in order to get started.  It means this beginner’s thread is now basically complete, and I’m happy to draw it to a close on an unexpected high note.  I’ll be back when the next project starts.  Thanks to all, Keith.

 

 

Edited November 4, 2023 by Keith Addenbrooke

[Mikkel]

That's a nice way to close a thread Keith, I look forward to following your continued exploits elsewhere.

 

BTW, your models and the sandwich look delicious!

 

Edited November 7, 2023 by Mikkel