Sector plate bearing

[dpgibbons]

I'm building a 60cm single road sector plate for a 7mm layout, pivoted at one end. The plate will simply slide through about 30 degrees on the 6mm deep ply baseboard top. I'm wondering how to make a pivot that's more durable and less frictional than a bolt. Any bearing would need to mount flush with the baseboard top.  No doubt there's something suitable out there on eBay but I'm not sure what to look for. Any ideas please?   

 

 

[73c]

Would something like this be of any use?

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Lazy-Susan-Bearing-Rotating-Swivel-Turntable-Plate-Turntable-Useful/224298195307?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item343936d96b:g:jOkAAOSwpVxf69gB&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMPVrO%2F%2BHheoSKbcvwpcUL7iH34LMnTzlmRvnFjlVojJmBMVFbkuZogClqXFKK0m2ZVpqSGeYmgvbszvsqH7j8lE71jUK4aRrNi5GzeHY5f%2BhD7wEVc%2FJq%2BD1iV2ajHYhH9C4zS%2Fh6BAhU8nAvW6SDKFIeaEdzx%2F%2Bof%2Bz8DQiJWKx%2BdQaVCdtTtIJ1Ip2wOJVvunJUmrlJQYQHQYT2xztUZQmJHBzMq2nusVM3ZOgj3xbxbG34nF87FFIZb%2Fc%2F%2F3Dcsa1qUxVKbRC22cty%2B%2BSQL1U0HXi1eKesaQfM7IsF5gmaIfEXxeoMbIechSPjQfJqVRffoc%2BuXOQX4AynTdljS7WGip9mEqBkBvYMGYvg5YABrunwulhQWqE6NWQw%2FM8EXfQ5y1xTQtz9mvwHBKI4I9GDJ0%2Fy6keeKNfh7TVdubONYfCXPruebw0g2nC80IWKDJb2DCgOwG2tf5c5Wn4o76qh8g4MDduuf7MITGbY6ijz9ctaTjZoUF1X8MEduRjDagax3TLoIhkfrVGBtgoPGEM9H6jHdAp0Hnl80g01ewd0QejXjT3ksa6%2Bfp4kTZYwy0zMrElb%2FTnEH%2FKuXvW1xfbEiIVZVOUpqqsK8nRH1AcYYCuqzGdvwRmbS4ij1ByG857bBS39S%2Fa5aVUL%2BMDQy%2BVbDvHBHSD8Mumk2I3x6OPYinCL0upqt9GnKdDsB2O9kHvCvlHlEDX3TxjSy8UehLYOx3es%2B1CnDMmhOxcer%2Bb4yLIyDkck2JXr44iUilmR8d85Sa%2Blmz6xcLDnP06GQE%3D|cksum%3A224298195307fb38572aab5e4d7d955836079d12e076|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

[Miss Prism]

Edited April 19, 2021 by Miss Prism

[dasatcopthorne]

I would simply put a bolt through with a locking nut on the end. Then arrange the sector plate to bear on pieces of plasticard at whatever spacing is needed. Small pieces on the underside of the plate and arc shapes on the board top.

 

Dave.

[Michael Hodgson]

You want the smooth running and accuracy of alignment at the end which swings, so that it will reliably line up exactly.  What the pivot is doing is relatively unimportant

[dpgibbons]

Thanks. An unsecured M8 threaded bolt is doing a reasonable temporary job, and the plate slides on the baseboard without too much friction. For an improved pivot I'm going to try telescoped brass tubes secured to brass sheet or PCB, which will also allow the plate to be readily removed.   

[Metropolitan H]

Formica pads against a Formica arc, lubricated with powdered graphite works well - but don't overdo the graphite it gets every-where. you might try rubbing a 2B (or softer) pencil on the pad surfaces in place of powdered graphite.

 

Just remember the Formica sheet is a nuisance to cut cleanly and can shatter before it is stuck firmly to the structure.

 

Regards

Chris H

[Harlequin]

Sorry I'm a bit late to this but:

 

How about using an M8 captive nut, hammered or screwed into the baseboard with maybe another in the sector plate?

  

Then wind the bolt down through them both, leaving a small gap and fix the bolt to the plate with a nut on top.

The bolt will turn smoothly and accurately in the captive nut in the baseboard and the amount of vertical movement would be tiny for a 30° movement - and that movement is away from the track joints so wouldn't affect them.

 

(Might need a bit more timber glued underneath to give the captive nut a solid fixing.)

 

Edited April 28, 2021 by Harlequin

[dpgibbons]

Thanks for the replies.

 

The MDF plate slides smoothly on the painted baseboard surface, even with a heavy 7mm loco on board, whilst the friction is enough to hold the plate in place when trains are passing over it. So no need for action there.

 

I did consider a Tee nut but I think the prongs would not play well with the thin MDF that I'm using.