Timber Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Over the next few weeks I will detail the build of the following locomotive using etched and 3D printed parts. The parts are available to members at cost. Where possible the model has been built to scale. However, similar to my other models it is a very simple representation of the prototype. The overall construction is very simple and can be improved if required. The chassis is for pickup operation but could easily be adapted for split axle. The available parts support closed and open cab versions of this locomotive together with parts to make early and late versions of the tender. Edited May 6, 2023 by Timber 18 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 The locomotive is best known as the Cambrian "Albion" Class locomotive but the design was used extensively across many companies. My model is of the Brecon and Merthyr USK and WYE locomotives. I am not sure if the B&M locomotives every carried a closed cab but I have added one to the etch as most of these locomotives where rebuilt with close cabs at some point in their life. Many finished life being converted to tank locomotives. There are many articles and photos on internet for this locomotive but the best link I have found that is a good picture summary of most of the locomotives built to this design can be found on page two of this tribute to Rev Awrdry of Sodar island fame. Click on the link page and scroll through the photos. https://sodorislandforums.com/thread/6234/agents-reports?page=2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) Whilst there are many photos and articles on the internet, accurate drawing information was relatively hard to find. The basis of the locomotive design is taken friom HMRS drawing number 26238 (Albion 2-4-0 small passenger) and HMRS 25461 1200 gallon 4 wheel tender. The challenge with the HMRS locomotive drawing is that it is an early GA and there are discrepancies between the drawing and early photos. These discrepancies are in the boiler design not the overall dimensions. To reflect later builds of the engine I found the drawing on page 60 of Russell's "A pictorial record of Great western Absorbed Engines" the most useful and one that i refered back to on many occasions. From what I have learnt, whilst the locomotives did go through various rebuilds, the boiler dimensions did not change. Only the exterior only the boiler fittings, chimney, cab and tenders changed. I have 3D parts for both early and late fittings. Edited April 24, 2021 by Timber 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 The etches are on two sheets. Both 0.45mm NS. The first is for the locomotive. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 23, 2021 Author Share Posted April 23, 2021 The second is for the Tender. This is a larger etch as it includes the parts for early and late variations and also the parts for both straight and curved steps, The Albion had curved steps whereas its sister locomotive the Volunteer class (that I am also building) had straight steps.... I have not itemised all the parts on this etch...I will explain when I get to that part of the build. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted April 23, 2021 Share Posted April 23, 2021 I'm greatly looking forward to this. They were very attractive engines and yours looks very good. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 Thx The locomotive is a simple build, the boiler and fittings are all available in a single 3D print. As with any print it will require a little smoothing. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 Starting with the chassis. This is a single etch that can either be folded for pickup operation or seperated to use the frames for split axle. The chassis is simply folded, placed on a flat surface top side down and then soldered. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 (edited) All folds are into the etch. The bearing and hornblocks are a little different, I have used a system where Gibson bearings fall into rails and then are folded into spaces in the chassis. The system works, there is maybe a little more lateral movement than other systems but it is very simple and for me works fine. If required the rails can be removed and High Level hornblock and bearings used. This will require more alignment as the folds in the Gibson bearing system help maintain alignment. Edited April 24, 2021 by Timber 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 The rails are folded and soldered flat..... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted April 24, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 24, 2021 Nice work. Such an attractive loco that I could see many buying even though it is not strictly "right" for their layouts. Have you considered offering it in other scales? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 Looks to be a very interesting thread 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 (edited) 22 hours ago, Joseph_Pestell said: Nice work. Such an attractive loco that I could see many buying even though it is not strictly "right" for their layouts. Have you considered offering it in other scales? Thank you for the feedback Joseph but I am planning to offer these only in S Scale - just simply sharing what I make for myself. If anyone wants to reuse then that is great if not then that is fine also. Edited April 25, 2021 by Timber Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Starting at the front of the frames, the first thing to do is to make the "hornblocks" for the leading 3'6" wheel. On the etch there are two small "n" shape etches. These are soldered into the frame below the fold. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Once in possition the top is folded onto the "n" and soldered. This provides 1.5mm of metal for the wheel to run on both sides...dressing out with a file may be necessary as this wheel sits low in the "hornblock. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Early prototypes had a splasher behind this leading wheel. There is a strip on the etch to make this. Simply role the strip and using an old 3'6" wheel possition so that the splashe is 1mm from the wheel, I find it easier to solder the curve and then cut, The bottom of the splasher has a small lip away from the wheel. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Finally on this leading wheel a 6BA bolt is used to provide the rocking compensation. A bolt is held on both sides of the frame with 2 nuts, only the bottom nut is soldered (taking care not to solder the bolt). Top nut is then removed. Bolt can be cut to length later in the build. The bolt runs on the wheel axle, not pretty but it works fine for me. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 Next up is fitting the compensation beams. There are two on the etch. They fit through the chassis using two 10BA screws with a half nut acting as a spacer between the compensation beam and the side of frame. The beam is held in place with a nut and the screw cut to length then soldered, 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 Brake hangers are fitted using 0.7mm brass wire, the rather bulbous drain tap is a Gauge 1 handrail knob with a wire spout and the sandpipes will be held in place with 7mm handrail knobs. That finishes the build of the chassis. It just needs all the excess solder removed and given a good clean before painting, 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 28, 2021 Author Share Posted April 28, 2021 While the chassis is being painted work can start on the body. Starting with the footplate. A feature of the footplate is the gap between the smokebox and headstock. To achieve this the front of the footplate simply folds upwards and a brass headstock is soldered in place. These brass components are 3D printed. I am looking to make them as castings but I suspect that the relative small volumes may result in 3D printing being cheaper. But it is something I will explore. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 28, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 28, 2021 Looks a stunning model. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) The skirt is a two part assembly. The riveted top skin is soldered to the main section. The steps fold out and the assembly is soldered to the footplate. The skirt will need to be trimmed a few mm from the front. Edited April 29, 2021 by Timber 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 29, 2021 Author Share Posted April 29, 2021 starting to look like a locomotive 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) the splashers can either be taken from the etch or 3D printed parts available in either brass or plastic, If the etched splashers are used, the front elevation can be made from taking a slice from a driving wheel tyre... For this model i am using brass splashers....they are only required for the front drivers, the rear wheels are covered by the inner cab print. the springs are simply soldered into the locations on the etch.... Edited April 30, 2021 by Timber 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 Now work can start on the cab. But first I paint the boiler in using Rustoleum paint. I will let this dry for 24 hours before I start to smooth with very fine glass paper and a glass fibre brush. But while I am doing this I can prepare the cab. As you can see the boiler has a number of slots across the rear end. The slot nearest the crew is for the cab, the next slot is for the cab sides and finally thge large cut out will be for the brass band. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now