Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 (edited) The cab is made up of seven pieces, two sides, two valances, a closed cab front and an open cab front and a roof. Edited May 2, 2021 by Timber 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 The bouiler is fitted to the chassis by a 6BA bolt that is passed through the smokebox floor using a thin wire. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 This is then bolted to the footplate. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 What i am now going to do is to do a partial build of the cab so that i can still remove the boiler for smoothing but at the same time check the alignment of the boiler with the chassis so that I can test the clearances for both the motor and wheels. The cab sides hold the boiler in possition so are important as part of this alignment exercise. But first a dry run of how the cab goes together...starting with the cab sides. The extended side is folded inwards to form thge interior of the cab. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 then the cab sides is slotted into the boiler 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 the vallance then slots over the cab side top. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 (edited) For an open cab model the top of the cab is cut off allowing a small amount to align the vallance. The valance slot is filled with solder. I will show this later as I am going to build an open cab model. If a full cab is required the full cab front slots into the boiler and is soldered to the cab side. As part of the research for this model I was told that the full cabs were simply riveted to the half cab. Hence the rivet detail. But I have never been able to see this detail this in any photos. If unsure the cab front can be reversed to provide a smooth front. Edited May 2, 2021 by Timber 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 1, 2021 Author Share Posted May 1, 2021 finally a photo of the half cab in possition....this is the model that I will now build. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted May 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2021 What software do you use for the design work, bot the 2D and the 3D? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 2D Microsoft Visio.....3D Fusion 360. It would be much easier if I could find an integrated tool but the capabilities of Fusion 360 are so good that there is little point looking for anything else at this stage. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Toi assemble the cab sides for a open cab, the cab sides are folded and the cab upper snipped off leaving approx 1mm of metal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Then the cab lower front has a fillet of solder added to the insides to form a sharp edge on the outside. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) Then place the cab side into the boiler and dry attach the valance and two household pins that i use for handrails. Losen the front bolt and slide the boiler back and forth until the pins are straight and symnetrical to the cab side. Just tack the side to the frame and adjust the other side in the same way. Edited May 3, 2021 by Timber 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 Once both sides are symetrical remove the boiler and trim the sides so that they are aligned to the space in the footplate. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 2, 2021 Author Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) Finish off fixing the base of the cab. The valances can be fitted later, next step is to fit the motor to the chassis and ensure that it sits in the boiler. Edited May 2, 2021 by Timber 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying Fox 34F Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Hello, Would you be kind enough to advise which supplier you use for the Etchings and the 3D prints? many thanks Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 Paul - I use https://ppdltd.com/ for my etchings. I have tried a few suppliers and PPD are the best cost/quality/customer service by a very long way. For 3D printing I use Shapeways. I have a small filament printer at home that I use for prototyping then once it is correct I send to Shapeways. Shapeways are not the cheapest but very good customer service and can print in a very large range of materials. Plus they are printing on industrial printers something that provides very consistent geometry. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 Next up is to fit the motor. Fitting the motor is a bit of a challenge as the boiler and firebox are very slim. With previous builds I have used small motors that fit within the firebox. But I recentIy discovered the Hornby X6152 motor that is only 11mm wide and has plenty of torque.. A flywheel would be nice but there is no spare shaft or room to accomodate. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) The gearbox is a High Level HighFlyer.... Fitting to the Hornby motor requires reaming out the fitting hole until it is a tight fit. I then twist this onto the motor almost as if it was as if it is self threading and then secure with a blob of super glue. It sound crude but I have made a few locos this way and it works. But I suspect that it is not a reversable process so if at some point in the future either the motor or gearbox need replacing then they will both have to be replaced. It is best to ream the etch before cutting off the fret as the force of the reamer cutting the metal can twist the unsupported etch - expensive mistake. Edited May 3, 2021 by Timber 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) Finally the body fits and the compensation movement seems OK. Now I will remove the boiler, give it a good smooth and then complete the build. Edited May 3, 2021 by Timber 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Valance is dropped onto the cutdown cab side and solder seam is run along the top to hold on possition. Pins are then placed in to location and soldered. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Here both sides are in place. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Fitted 3D printer wheels with society rims and Markit axles to the chassis. Pickups off the chassis are my own design but gibsons will work just as well. The coupling rod is a two part assembly, back to back so that the finished item is just under 1mm thick. Markit crank pins are used, 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) This is the loco running, almost straight off the blocks. It sounds like a crank pin is touching the skirt and the leading wheel is sticking....but these are easily fixed. Maybe the motor in the boiler may need a little insulating from touching the boiler......I will run it on the bench for a while to run it in properly. Before finishing the loco I am going to start work on the tender..... Edited May 9, 2021 by Timber 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted May 11, 2021 Author Share Posted May 11, 2021 (edited) The Tender etch has the parts to make multiple versions of the Sharp Stewart 4 wheel tender. From my research there appeard to be two basic tender types, an "as built" and a post 1910 version. The "as built" were slightly longer base, had a tool box on the back and a central frame "strut" in the middle of the frames. The post 1910 version had a shortened base, the frame was open between the wheels and the toolbox was on top. At some point before 1910 the tender wooden block brakes were replaced with steel brakes. So there are early style tenders running eithe wooden and steel brakes. Post 1910 design the brakes were steel. There is also a cosmetic design features depending on the loco type, some had straight steps, others had curved steps. Over time there appears to be some tenders that were upgraded at some point in their life but retained features of the "as built". It appears that it was a bit of hit and miss as to what tender design ended up on the locos as they approached end of life. This etch will cater for all the above builds. For the Albion I would suggest the curved steps as these match the locomotive design. The components are dertailed below, I have shaded out the straight steps part and just focussed on the parts needed for the Albion. Edited May 11, 2021 by Timber Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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