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DIY Rivets??


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Hello all,

I am researching the best way to make rivets for a well wagon I am modifying. The concept of quickly dabbing dots of stuff just fills me with dread as trying to keep them all the same size and also made sure they are equidistant and in a straight line while trying to get them down before your material dries. That is just a big no from me. 

I have been hunting around and I really like this approach of pre-forming a metal foil and then filling in the back to maintain them, appears to be right up my street. Does anyone have any other alternatives to consider?

 

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That is very impressive! I haven't seen it done like that before but having just struggled embossing some rivets with a proper rivetting press, as the material was too thick and the half etched rivets on the back were too close to the edge, I may well give it a try.

 

I haven't tried Archer's rivet transfer strips but have seen some very good results with them. I just think the chances of them doing exactly the patterns and spacings I want are a bit slim. 

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11 hours ago, t-b-g said:

That is very impressive! I haven't seen it done like that before but having just struggled embossing some rivets with a proper rivetting press, as the material was too thick and the half etched rivets on the back were too close to the edge, I may well give it a try.

 

I haven't tried Archer's rivet transfer strips but have seen some very good results with them. I just think the chances of them doing exactly the patterns and spacings I want are a bit slim. 

 

I've just used these on a etched kit, a Stanier 3P tank. If you follow their instructions they look good, although I thought they needed to be slightly "thicker" to protrude more. You apply them to the bare surface , then prime/paint to seal them in. After few coats ie. primer, top coat, varnish, if applied too thick then they can start to disappear.

 

Edited by philsandy
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Here are some from Archers surface detail sheet. you do get a good range of pitches on one sheet. These went on after primer but have had two top coats plus one of varnish. HTH

DSCF1170.JPG

DSCF1171.JPG

Edited by Carnforth
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DIY rivets, what does anyone think of using 120gsm glossy paper for wagon corner plates and strapping punched through from the reverse side (4mm scale)? Had a bad experience with the LRM L&Y Dia.21 Break (Tin Tab) - my bad, where the etched brass sides have little dints on the reverse which you are supposed to punch through but I was too heavy handed and the rivet patterns I created on the visible side look like rocks. So I tried using the glossy paper and overlaid it, easy because it's the whole side, and it looks much more reasonable.

 

Was thinking of extending this to scratch wagon building so how would I finish it, standard undercoat spray as per the rest of the etched kit or plastikard or proof the paper first in some way?

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I used to make my own rivets until I discovered these resin moulded one from Masterclub. I think they are cheap costing only £2.95 per packet. I get mine from Historex in Dover. They also do nuts and bolts which are brilliant. I have no connection with Historex , only a satisfied  customer. 

20210430_100635.jpg

Edited by airnimal
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For the rivets/bolt heads on a buffer beam I've recentl;y made I used paper, pricking the rivets out on the reverse with a pin and the solvent fixing the paper to styrene sheet.  Probably not a very useful idea on a large metal surface such as the saddle tank shown above although, many years ago, I did make the tank for a GWR 'balloon' water tank in a similar way.

 

1094178625_DeanGoodsTenderBufferbeam.1.A.jpg.17c6a91413e48ac91ba462292b8ccdcf.jpg

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It appears that Railtec have started to produce 3D rivet transfers.

I’ve not used them specifically, but everything else they produce is high quality, so maybe worth investigating.

They might even be able to produce the correct size/spacing to suit your needs ?

 

cheers,

Phil.

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The GW Models rivet press is an excellent tool that I can thoroughly recommend. Size and spacing all adjustable. I know it costs as much as a small loco kit but you only need to buy it once!

 

1922444110_RivetPress.jpg.092f0fb89857b77dacb90f43834547c8.jpg 

 

 

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I should have added for forming rivets on brass I also

use my trusty "Graskop" tool made by Dick and Simon Ganderton. I don't think they're available new now. When I ordered it I specified 1" rivets @ 3" pitch as set by the width of the anvil. It will do bigger spacings, of course, I figured at the time that would be the minimum I'd require and there's a distance bar to set for doing straight lines. Adjust the weight according to the thickness of metal. Used in the pic att.

DSCN2669.JPG

DSCF1219.JPG

DSCF1220.JPG

Edited by Carnforth
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On 30/04/2021 at 09:18, Carnforth said:

Here are some from Archers surface detail sheet. you do get a good range of pitches on one sheet. These went on after primer but have had two top coats plus one of varnish. HTH

DSCF1170.JPG

DSCF1171.JPG

I can only see them on import from America with silly postage rates :(

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On 01/05/2021 at 08:42, Phil Mc said:

It appears that Railtec have started to produce 3D rivet transfers.

I’ve not used them specifically, but everything else they produce is high quality, so maybe worth investigating.

They might even be able to produce the correct size/spacing to suit your needs ?

 

cheers,

Phil.

Hi

 

Railtec rivets on one of my current projects.

94D433AB-1D5D-498B-85F4-4E441A94F134.jpeg.3428b1975aac64a917298767050b784c.jpeg

To give an idea of size the tank barrel is 18mm diameter and the small disc with the rivets on is 5mm diameter.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited by PaulCheffus
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I use an ancient rivet press I bought about 50 years ago .  It is very simple but does the job really well.

I bought a GW models recently , it is not as good, so I will probably sell it on.

I have never tried rivet transfers, but now I know that Railtec  are doing them, I will give them a try.  All other stuff I've had from Railtec is very good so I am sure the rivets will be too.

 

Rob

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