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First major scratch-built buildings


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Well done, Edward!  You have made a fine job of capturing the atmosphere of these attractive buildings.

About the glue stains, it's best to avoid them in the first place, though it's not always possible, but a few glue syringes with different size nozzles bought on eBay for very little money (search for glue syringes), will make life much easier!

IMG_4509.JPG

 

This sort of thing,   but make sure you have a means of sealing the fine tube after use, or washing the whole thing out, else it will dry and become useless (don't ask how I know this!)    You might also consider printing Scalescenes texture sheets onto self-adhesive label paper - no glue, no sticky fingers, and a chance of limited re-positioning if you make a mistake!

 

As for masking existing marks, any decent matt varnish, spray or brush should do the trick - I live in France, so pointless recommending a local brew, but in the UK, Testors Dulcote is the go-to product, I believe.

 

Cheers  Mike

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Spotlc
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As others have said, impressive, Barclays in particular with the detail around the doors and windows.

 

As for the stains I went for a different approach. I stopped using scalescenes roofing and have gone for Scale Model Scenery tiles. They do a set of laser cut weathered tiles which I then stick down with clear PVA and have not had the staining issue I used to get with paper. Below is an example using their dirty tiles which have lots of bird poop but there is also a lighter weathered sheet. 

 

060421_1_small.jpg.4c6524132022e0680a001245e86097f8.jpg

 

 

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22 hours ago, Spotlc said:

Well done, Edward!  You have made a fine job of capturing the atmosphere of these attractive buildings.

About the glue stains, it's best to avoid them in the first place, though it's not always possible, but a few glue syringes with different size nozzles bought on eBay for very little money (search for glue syringes), will make life much easier!

IMG_4509.JPG

 

This sort of thing,   but make sure you have a means of sealing the fine tube after use, or washing the whole thing out, else it will dry and become useless (don't ask how I know this!)    You might also consider printing Scalescenes texture sheets onto self-adhesive label paper - no glue, no sticky fingers, and a chance of limited re-positioning if you make a mistake!

 

As for masking existing marks, any decent matt varnish, spray or brush should do the trick - I live in France, so pointless recommending a local brew, but in the UK, Testors Dulcote is the go-to product, I believe.

 

Cheers  Mike

 

Hi Mike

Many thanks for your tips. I do try very hard to keep the glue away but always seems to happen.  This time is was mainly the roof ridge tiling!  I'll certainly try the matt varnish trick!

 

22 hours ago, Spotlc said:

 

 

 

 

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21 hours ago, pirouets said:

As others have said, impressive, Barclays in particular with the detail around the doors and windows.

 

As for the stains I went for a different approach. I stopped using scalescenes roofing and have gone for Scale Model Scenery tiles. They do a set of laser cut weathered tiles which I then stick down with clear PVA and have not had the staining issue I used to get with paper. Below is an example using their dirty tiles which have lots of bird poop but there is also a lighter weathered sheet. 

 

060421_1_small.jpg.4c6524132022e0680a001245e86097f8.jpg

 

 

I do like your cottages!   I fear in my case it's just cackhandedness!  But I will keep trying!

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3 hours ago, Edward said:

I fear in my case it's just cackhandedness!

Ah, a fellow sufferer of everyone else must be better than me :-) Can't see any signs of cackhandedness if you ask me.

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On 03/05/2021 at 04:28, Edward said:

've found one problem:  I get glue stains which dry very shiny on places like roofs.  Not sure what is the best way to cover this.  Have tried weathering powders but they don't work very well

There are glues used in decoupage that wont give that stain. Some as well as using to glue the item down you also brush all over the finished piece  and it gives a matt or satin varnish finish of your choice.

I know Mod Podge have a range, there may be others. I only know this because my sister was into it for a bit and would give us stuff that she'd decoupaged every christmas and birthday.

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If you have a local The Range shop, they sell Windsor and Newton acrylic matt varnish in 500ml pots that works out much cheaper than the modelling equivalents, its for artists but it works great on card/paper and I also use it on my plastic models.

 

HobbyCraft also sell micro glue applicators in a pack of 3 which are good for PVA glues, they come with a pin to seal the thin nozzle.

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1 hour ago, Campaman said:

If you have a local The Range shop, they sell Windsor and Newton acrylic matt varnish in 500ml pots that works out much cheaper than the modelling equivalents, its for artists but it works great on card/paper and I also use it on my plastic models.

 

HobbyCraft also sell micro glue applicators in a pack of 3 which are good for PVA glues, they come with a pin to seal the thin nozzle.

Andy  ,  yes we have a Range and I'll explore their stock.  Thanks for the tip

Edward

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14 hours ago, col.stephens said:

Edward, going back to your original post regarding glue stains on your roofs.  It has just dawned on me as to why you were experiencing this problem.  It's nothing to do with your workmanship, more to do with the type of adhesive you are using.  When applying the roof slates or tile strips, use a glue stick, not a liquid adhesive.  Using this method you won't get any overun onto the surface of the slates or tiles.  Any excess glue can be removed with a wooden toothpick.  The results when using a glue stick can be seen at my buildings blog below.  A quick look at the signal box will suffice.  My preferred glue stick is 'UHU stic' which, unlike the cheaper glue sticks, appears to have a permanent bond.

 

Terry

Hi Terry

Many thanks indeed for your comments which are very apposite as I'm just starting on replacing my Scalescenes goods shed with one more of a M&GHJ flavour.  Beginning by burrowing into Nigel Digby's magnum opuses to get some ideas.  Luckily I got an auto notification set up so got your comments quickly.  I'll certainly get some UHU stic;  have already got the Cosmic Acrylic glue which is good.  

Edward

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On 04/12/2021 at 21:14, col.stephens said:

Edward, going back to your original post regarding glue stains on your roofs.  It has just dawned on me as to why you were experiencing this problem.  It's nothing to do with your workmanship, more to do with the type of adhesive you are using.  When applying the roof slates or tile strips, use a glue stick, not a liquid adhesive.  Using this method you won't get any overun onto the surface of the slates or tiles.  Any excess glue can be removed with a wooden toothpick.  The results when using a glue stick can be seen at my buildings blog below.  A quick look at the signal box will suffice.  My preferred glue stick is 'UHU stic' which, unlike the cheaper glue sticks, appears to have a permanent bond.

 

Terry

 

Even with a glue stick, the other thing that helps is to make sure you keep your fingers absolutely clean, wiping / washing them regularly. Some of my early attempts I found I was carrying glue to the front face of the model from my fingers. 

 

I have also found that sealing my prints with Inkjet Fixative has allowed them to be gently wiped with a slightly damp cloth to remove any excess glue before it dries.

Roy

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52 minutes ago, col.stephens said:

I always give the printed page a coat of matt varnish before assembly begins.  I usually use Testors Dullcote and prefer the brush-on variety as I find that spray varnish often leaves a white bloom on the printed surface.  Varnishing the printed sheets also allows you to paint over them with watercolour paints without causing the inkjet ink to run. 

 

Terry

 

Often it's six of one and half a dozen of the other: a white bloom is usually caused by spraying in a damp atmosphere while brush painting varnish can soften the paint and cause it to streak in to brush marks.

 

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45 minutes ago, col.stephens said:

You don't get the problem of brush marks with Testors Dullcote.  The solvent immediately evaporates and the varnish is dry within minutes, leaving the printed page as smooth as it was before the varnish was applied.

 

I would add that Testors Dullcote does not cause the ink to streak or cause it to run.

 

 

 

That's good, although in my experience I found that regardless of how quickly the solvent evaporates, by brushing it on it softens the ink/paint and the brush smears it before the solvent evaporates. On the other hand I've not had white blooming using an aerosol can, either Testors or Humbrol, and would recommend that.

 

 

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AFAIA apparently blooming is caused by the spray catching and capturing water molecules in the air as it settles on the target, or by too thick/heavy a coat. A number of thin fine dusted on coats that are each allowed to dry is best. It's not so much having dry conditions to spray in but having no or little water vapour in the air.

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