Guest Jack Benson Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 A recent purchase of a ‘mint’ Hornby T9 is somewhat battered and needs several detached parts to be reattached. Also, several parts are missing and an Amercon static T9 will be used as a donor for steps and other small parts. Having suffered in the past with damage to RTR models I am concerned that ‘normal’ adhesives which rely on making the matching surfaces ‘melt’ may not be suitable. Any suggestions? Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 (edited) Hi, I use Hafix industrial superglue. Will literally stick anything to anything. If you cool it in the fridge before hand it slows the initial sticking time. That gives you a bit more time to postion you item before the glue grabs it. And yes it even sticks the plastics from Amercom models which seem to be rather difficult to stick down. https://www.hafixs.co.uk/products/profglue/index.html Edited May 6, 2021 by cypherman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold sjp23480 Posted May 6, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2021 I have the reverse problem. Several of my Hornby models have small details are stuck on but not properly aligned. Must have been produced on Monday morning, or the QC team had rung in sick! I see Hafixs also do a glue remover - can anyone share their experience with this product on RTR models. THanks Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 5 hours ago, cypherman said: Hi, I use Hafix industrial superglue. Will literally stick anything to anything. Thank you, a small bottle is on order. StaySafe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Foden Posted May 6, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 6, 2021 Can I ask why you think plastic adhesive that bonds the material is not suitable? In my opinion this type of adhesive is infact the most suitable in the long run, as it effectively welds the material. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 I woudn't use the Amercom parts myself . I found the only one I ever had anything to do with , a 61XX to be next to impossible to stick back together, a bit like trying to glue coal. The adhesive with melt and damage the Hornby body, would fabricate the bits from plastic or brass, dead clocks are a good source of brass and deader tech, printers, copiers laptops etc a good source of pastic, a lot better than plasticard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 12 hours ago, DavidCBroad said: I woudn't use the Amercom parts myself . I found the only one I ever had anything to do with , a 61XX to be next to impossible to stick back together, a bit like trying to glue coal. The adhesive with melt and damage the Hornby body, would fabricate the bits from plastic or brass, dead clocks are a good source of brass and deader tech, printers, copiers laptops etc a good source of pastic, a lot better than plasticard. Amercon didn't make a 61XX. Must be something else. You're not mistaking a current Dapol Kitmaster 61XX by any chance. The plastic in them is a bit rubbish. Haven't had any problems gluing parts of Amercom/GBL models. Got about half a dozen which are soon to get Comet chassis. They are virtually RTR models with diecast chassis and many people have used them with no problems. There is a thread somewhere on RMWeb where someone has converted things like the T9 into Scottish locomotives using plastikard. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 The Hafix will be useful as I have a David Geen kit to build. Double-whammy StaySafe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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