Kato Announce ES-1 style Electric Locomotive BR E3682

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On 28/07/2021 at 18:19, Roy L S said:

I used a wired Zimo MX616 which is tiny at 8 x 8 x 2.4mm, cost £32 from Youchoos. I located the chip in the cab area above the motor. 

 

The whole model very cleverly clips together so easy to get apart, wiring is easy as the chassis is split, power comes from the chassis via little phosphor bronze strips that clip into recesses in the chassis each side. De-solder these from the motor wires and solder on power leads from the chip instead, shorten the wire attached to the motor and ditto motor leads from the chip, solder together and insulate with heat-shrink. 

 

The biggest challenge was routing the wires so that the chip located in the cab area, I found that some plastic from the top of the chassis assembly needs cutting away to facilitate this, but great care is needed as you will see that this holds the motor in place, cut too much away and the worm gear disengages (don't ask how I know this...).

 

All in all pretty easy, if I can do it anyone can!

 

Regards

 

Roy

Hi Roy

 

I'm having a go at installing a Zimo MX616 but am falling at the first hurdle.  I've managed to get the upper body shell off but cannot see how to unclip the chassis.  I'm reluctant to exert too much pressure so should be grateful for further guidance.

 

Many thanks

 

Steve

[Roy L S]

5 hours ago, strain said:

 

Hi Roy

 

I'm having a go at installing a Zimo MX616 but am falling at the first hurdle.  I've managed to get the upper body shell off but cannot see how to unclip the chassis.  I'm reluctant to exert too much pressure so should be grateful for further guidance.

 

Many thanks

 

Steve

Hi Steve

 

I will dig mine out tomorrow and send a few pics.

 

Regards

 

Roy

 

 

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Many thanks

[Roy L S]

Apologies for delay, please find picture below, the whole loco cleverly clips together, the clips for the loco body take the form of what looks like steps underneath the cab door and one each end under the "nose".

 

Then the external plastic "chassis" clips on to the metal inner chassis via two tiny metal lugs in the centre, just above the footplate. You will see the plasticard retainer for the motor I had to make when I got a bit gung-ho cutting the top away to allow access for the decoder wires!

 

Hope this helps.

 

Roy

Edited August 12, 2021 by Roy L S

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Many thanks Roy.  That is really helpful.  I will let you know if I succeed ...

[Johann Marsbar]

I did notice on a Japanese shop website today that Kato have also produced a version of it for the US market now in orange as "Kato Traction #50" which is supposed to be based on Iowa Traction #50.......

 

 

 

Edited July 22, 2022 by Johann Marsbar

[Gaugemaster Controls]

 

[RateTheFreight]

Just purchased one having been a fan of Kato products for a while now. 
 

I’ve always been interested in the Harton Electric Railway and whilst I appreciate this loco bears no more than a very very very passing resemblance to #1 or #2 given mine will be running round very tight radius Kato track in a box file and I’ve always been a fan of things that look right to me in spirit than rivet counting detail I’m sure I’ll be happy.
 

In the absence of any RTR small electric locos I’m happy to create a micro n gauge electric railway with atmosphere that will keep me and my little baby boy entertained! 
 

 

[Von_Meyer]

On 29/07/2021 at 16:34, Von_Meyer said:

Thanks Roy, much appreciated - I'll give it a whirl!

Finally got round to doing this, went reasonably smoothly; left the decoder wires to long at first attempt which prevented body shell from going back on easily but that was soon overcome. Runs really well with the Zimo MX616.  Pleased I made the effort

 

Edited August 12, 2022 by Von_Meyer

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Finally and much later got mine done - delays due to the worm coming loose, getting hold of some Loctite 638 to fix.  Also repeated taking apart and reassembly enabled me to break the solder joints several times!  However Zimo MX616R is now installed in the cab and the ES-1 performs very well as a DCC loco.  Many thanks to Roy L S for his encouraging  guidence.

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