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Sarf London inspired sidings


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On 29/09/2021 at 21:31, Multigauge said:

Oh, and can anyone suggest where I can get piano wire for wire tube operation? And what diameter I may need for peco code75 point work? 

You could search for piano wire. It comes in many sizes from 0.4mm upwards. 4D Models stocks a good range. If you have a model aircraft shop nearby they use it for undercarriage struts etc. If you are using plastic tube, as opposed to copper, you may find that piano wire is too springy.

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I've used piano wire in tubes for peco points on a previous layout.  Measuring some here looks about 1mm diameter.   These were straight runs from point to edge of board I.e. virtually 90° to baseboard., a bit of leeway with that but not much.

 

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6 hours ago, bazzer42 said:

I've used piano wire in tubes for peco points on a previous layout.  Measuring some here looks about 1mm diameter.   These were straight runs from point to edge of board I.e. virtually 90° to baseboard., a bit of leeway with that but not much.

 

Thanks bazzer. I've used some before and ran it through small choc blocks for support etc, but I no longer remember how I came about the wire, not it's dimensions, so that helps. I have seen a link to a certain large DIY chain that claims to sell the wire, but I think it needs straightening as it comes coiled. 

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2 hours ago, Multigauge said:

Thanks bazzer. I've used some before and ran it through small choc blocks for support etc, but I no longer remember how I came about the wire, not it's dimensions, so that helps. I have seen a link to a certain large DIY chain that claims to sell the wire, but I think it needs straightening as it comes coiled. 

Hi Matt.

 

I think that although it comes coiled, it is actually straight and when you remove the tape from it the wire will spring out straight. By the way, I believe that piano wire will not take solder.

 

All the best

Ray

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On 01/10/2021 at 22:31, Multigauge said:

@sb67 thanks for the kind words. 

The arches were coloured with a mixture of Skin tones soft pastels by Boldmere (stocked by the works from memory) Derwent pastels from Hobbycraft and and polychromus pencils by Faber Castell from WHSmith.

There is a thread on RM web about using pencils - search polychromus - that gave me the idea, but trying to find the right ones was a chore. Dark chrome yellow was used a lot, but I also used light yellow ochre and yellow ochre. Brown ochre, raw umber and burnt sienna were used too. I just did bits at time and sometime wiped bits away if I thought it was overdone. The stone setts have been coloured with a graphite pencil to start then odd ones highlighted with the coloured pencils too. Hope this helps.

 

You're welcome. Did you put them over a base coat or just where you say you rubbed down the brick red hat the walls were originally painted and were they sealed at all after? 

I'd like to try using pencils it seems like a better way of adding colour a bit at a time. 

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On 03/10/2021 at 09:43, bazzer42 said:

I've used piano wire in tubes for peco points on a previous layout.  Measuring some here looks about 1mm diameter.   These were straight runs from point to edge of board I.e. virtually 90° to baseboard., a bit of leeway with that but not much.

 

If you are lucky (as they come in very slightly differing diameters/bore) salvaged wire stripped from an old tumble drier hose will nicely fit inside the springy plastic coated curtain wire. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 25/11/2021 at 16:00, wainwright1 said:

Hi Matt.

 

Have you seen this in the layout topics. Might prove of interest especially the most recent posts.

All the best

Ray

 

Hi Ray, 

Yes, read this thread before and found it very inspiring: it is good to be reminded of it though. Not much done for a while now. Time has been tight with other commitments, but I live in hope that this Sunday may see some modeling time. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Modelling time has been a rare commodity over the past few months, so I haven't got anything worth showing at the moment. However, I've made a start on the canal basin at the front which was waiting for me to pull my finger out and lay what will be the base. 

On another note, anyone have any tips on a supplier of good 00 horses suitable for drays and the like? 

 

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11 hours ago, Multigauge said:

Modelling time has been a rare commodity over the past few months, so I haven't got anything worth showing at the moment. However, I've made a start on the canal basin at the front which was waiting for me to pull my finger out and lay what will be the base. 

On another note, anyone have any tips on a supplier of good 00 horses suitable for drays and the like? 

 

Mi Matt.

 

Hope that you are well.

 

Dart Castings do a good range of horses for what you need.

 

All the best

 

Ray

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Hi Ray, infested with lurgy at present, but it seems to be a cold/flu type thing as opposed to the dreaded Rona.

Anyway, thanks for advice; order placed with Dart castings for some horses and carts.

I'm also wondering about a Thames sailing barge to go at the front; anyone have any experience of the building one from Sarik Hobbies? The built up version looks lovely, and will fit, but I'm also wondering if it will dominate the area too much. I've placed a scalescenes barge I made up (basic un-detailed as it yet) in a photo (I think it looks rather good) to give an idea but this is somewhat smaller- and yes, the area is far from finished and needs much tidying. 

Now cranes! A mobile yard type crane or a fixed jobbie? Answers on a postcard please, or failing that, a reply here would be just as good.

 

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Looking good! One of the mistakes I made with my wharf layout is there's not really enough space to moor a boat on the water at the front of the layout, but even the simple barge on yours does make it look proper.

If you're worried about a Thames barge taking up too much space, maybe make a simple card-shape mock-up with the size of the mast/sails to get an idea? An intricate model like that would certainly add more visual interest at the front.

 

Finally RE cranes; I'd say it depends on your desired era. If it's 50s/60s you could definitely get a mobile pick-and-carry type crane and then it's easier to pose it around the scene for photographs, but at a guess much earlier would have been more likely to be a fixed hand-crane? Not an expert here, this is just what I vaguely remember from looking up dates for my various working cranes.

Alternatively you could go for a rail-mounted crane, or even a crane-tank engine...

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@TechnicArrow, thanks for the input; your comment about cranes is similar in view point to mine; must do some more research. Era wise, I'm sort of thinking 50s, but I may also run stuff from the late 70s too, but have it more run down; I'm not going to be anal about it though. Keep forgetting about mock ups - must give them a try. 

Here's another view looking from inside the rail served warehouse

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Hi Matt.

 

Have a look at Anyscale Models website. He does a number of items for the quayside including steel lighters and a Clyde Puffer, plus several derelict items.

 

South Eastern Finecast, (Now Squires), do a small crane tank, although the reach of the fixed jib around the chimney would not be very far. The South Eastern Railway bough two and the Caledonian one. I have one to build and I hope that the very small loco wheels are still available.

 

All the best

 

Happy modelling

 

Merry Christmas

 

Ray

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  • 3 weeks later...

I packed everything away on Christmas eve to allow for the dinning room to be put to its proper use - and also because we had a house full - with the intention of getting it all out again in the quiet bit between Xmas and New Year, but WFH and other domestic faff got in the way until circa New Year's Day. 

Anyway, Santa bought me some white metal bits and bobs from Dart castings which I have been preparing, and I also had a go at scratch building a makeshift stables out of card and paper.

I also bought some mooring posts from model railway scenes along with some crates and other yard paraphernalia. I need to improve my painting skills that's for sure. 

One quick question, were shipping crates lighter or darker in colour - or were they many colours? Finding colour pics from the 50's seems difficult for search engines.

 

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Crates containing imported goods were most often new ones, manufactured near the source of the product. Typically they would be made of new cheap timber, which is generally pale. Similarly industrial goods made in this country would travel in timber crates. It seems that it was cheaper to buy new and not collect and reuse them. This just the impression I have. The same can be seen to some extent with pallets now. Some are recycled but others find their way into upcycling projects or Firework night bonfires. Branding could be by stencil or paper labels. Food products were more likely to have been transported in branded cardboard boxes.

Upmarket brands sometimes would have decorated their crates with colours to suit their marketing. You would have to try looking for company archive photos for clues to that subject.

Some reuse did occur. The most obvious were the plywood tea chests much favoured by removal firms well into the 1960s and 70s. They gradually became darker as they were used and abused.

Edited by phil_sutters
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@phil_sutters thank you. That information is really helpful. I could only find one or two decent shots of crates and they all seemed to be new wood which I thought odd, but your explanation has helped. It is funny how in some ways we recycle/reuse/repurpose (whatever your choice of term) more now than we did back then, but in other ways we don't; milk bottles v cartons as an example. I suppose that most import trade that came in one sort of packaging, and exporting needed other types. Tea from India and China is a good example. I can't think of a similar commodity that we would send back, but then I'm of a generation where our exports seem to be less tangible anyway.

I remember we had a couple of old tea chest at home when I was very young that must have been used when we moved from Kennington to Camberwell. 

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I have just found this topic and it is quite timely as I am starting on my own docklands project, a super bit of modelling giving me some ideas of what I can do on my layout. I have bought some of the scratch building aids from the same company and plan to use the same Wills viaduct walls

 

Thanks for sharing it

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some testing tonight using unusual motive power. I mainly trying to ensure the kadees worked as hoped and in the main they did.

The 08 is a Hornby one. I have to say it has amazing slow speed control. The 07 isn't quite as good, but to be fair it needs a good run in.

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  • 1 month later...

Not much going on at the moment. I've been trying to get some of the smaller details painted, but have had limited success. 

Finally got a paint blend I'm happy with for the new wooden crates, but can get it to adhere to the plastics very well! Still uming and erring over a crane; not seen anything I like in a price range I think is acceptable..

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44 minutes ago, Multigauge said:

Not much going on at the moment. I've been trying to get some of the smaller details painted, but have had limited success. 

Finally got a paint blend I'm happy with for the new wooden crates, but can get it to adhere to the plastics very well! Still uming and erring over a crane; not seen anything I like in a price range I think is acceptable..

Hi Matt.

Pleased to see that you have come out of hibernation.

If the plastic crates are still loose, trying giving them a scrub with cream cleaner, then a thorough rinse, the paint should then  adhere. I use this on white metal and brass/nickel silver kits as well to remove flux residue and the primer/paint usually sticks pretty well.

All the best

Ray

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