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New to DCC help please.


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Morning all. I have just bought a Bachmann digital layout, and the e-z controller keeps referring to "latch" or "trigger" which I don't understand.

also being new, I made the mistake of buying the Bachmann class 20/3 which needs 128 steps for best results and the e-z has only 28. Should have done my homework.

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The Bachmann E-Z Controller is aimed at the toy / train set end of the market.  As such, it's a bit on the basic side and you'll probably want to upgrade if you decide to take DCC seriously.  Especially if you want to go with DCC Sound, since the E-Z Controller can only access eight functions and not the full 29 that some decoders have.  It's also limited in that it can only control up to nine DCC locomotives, so is no use for a large layout (but isn't a problem for the average train set oval of track with a couple of sidings and a loop).  The majority of DCC Command stations will allow locomotive addresses up to 9999 not just up to 9.  I'd also caution against the use of the 'analogue locomotive operation', as it's not good for the motor of an analogue locomotive to be subject to a DCC waveform.  It will tend to buzz and eventually damage the locomotive.

 

The terms 'latch' and 'trigger' refer to what you want the function buttons to do.  'Latch' means that you press the function button to turn that function on and then press it again to turn it off.  'Trigger' means that you want to press the button to activate the function, but it will stop when you let go.

 

Therefore, for example, you would want the function for the lights to be latched, so that you turn them on and they stay on.  You then turn them off and they stay off.  However, if using DCC Sound, then you'd want the horn to be a 'trigger' sound - ie the sound only plays while the key is depressed and as soon as you let go, the sound stops.  What the functions on your decoder do will depend on whether you want the function buttons to be latched or triggered.

Edited by Dungrange
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Thanks very much, nicely explained. It's only a small layout with the new class 20/3 DCC, Harry Needle with a whole array of sounds, and in the loco instructions it does recommend a controller with a 128 steps, but I didn't know that.

oh well, live and learn. Beautiful looking loco though.

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I wouldn't worry too much about the number of speed steps.  The original decoders were all 14 step, which basically means if your prototype has a top speed of 100 mph, then each notch on the controller would equate to about 7 mph.  That is, your locomotive would be stationary and then be doing 7 mph and then 14 mph and so on. The number of speed steps was then increased to 28, so effectively each step would equate to about 4 mph.  This was then subsequently changed to 128 speeds steps, so each step will equate to a change in speed of less that 1 mph.  That therefore means that you can make much smaller changes to the speed. 

 

The limiting factor will be that I don't think you can't access all of the sound and lighting functions, which on the 20/3 go as far as F28.  I think you can only access F0 to F7 on the E-Z Controller.  However, the more frequently used functions tend to be the lower numbered ones.

 

I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. 

Edited by Dungrange
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Thanks again dungrange, superb explanation, and as you say, I can operate all the main sounds, I don't think I will bother with a new controller. Tim

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There is another disadvantage, with the EZ, which can't alter the CV settings.  It really doesn't stop you having plenty of operating fun, but there are some simple CV changes which might make for even smoother running, than you already have.

{eg. Sound volume level, acceleration / deceleration, maximum speed, start motor voltage, disable Railcom if needed and a few others.}  There is nothing to stop you from changing the settings with another controller, as they are saved on-board the loco.  A local club, or even your local {friendly} railway shop would be likely to help out, there.

 

Julian

 

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