2mm Code 40 steel: 10m coil

[Royal42]

Hello everyone,

I am still plodding on at learning all things 2mm: however, I do have a question about the Association's 10m coil of rail.  I do like this stuff, mainly as it is affordable to me, but can anyone advise the best way to make the coil straight?  I can get a section fairly straight but could do with some advice on how to get each piece exactly straight.  I only have a few, eight in fact, sections that are exactly straight as I am already finding that the rest of the rail in my dio is curved.

I would be grateful for any help and advice on this.

cheers,
Mike

[Caley Jim]

I draw it through between my finger and thumb, with my finger on the outside of the curve, pressing it into my thumb.   Usually takes several passes and you may have to do it in different planes to get all the curve out.   I find that there is no need to get it absolutely dead straight, provided your sleepers are e stuck down.

 

Jim

[Valentin]

I would avoid coiled rail - I don't know about code 40, but code 30 it's not prototypical (not flat bottom, nor bullhead) and it's a pain to straighten it. I used only code 30 for a narrow-gauge track and I straighten it using Mark Fielder's jig.

[Nigelcliffe]

The bigger concern is curving in the vertical plane.   Avoid that if you can.  

In the horizontal, as Jim says.   

 

There is another way, but don't do this because there are electrical safety regulations.   
The darkest corner of Essex, in a thunderstorm, with lightning flashes.....  That's the time and place to use Bill Blackburn's rail straightening machine.   Start with a 2ft long old-style electric fire element (in the fire is fine).  Arrange a clamp at each end of the fire element, such that a rail can be threaded along the centre of the fire element, and the ends of the rail fixed in the clamps.  The clamps are fixed to a very strong bed so stuff won't bend.  One of the clamps should be sprung loaded to pull hard on the rail.  Turn on the power.  Stuff glows red-hot.  As soon as the sprung clamp starts to move, turn off power.   Wait for it all to cool. Remove straight piece of rail.  Cackle and howl at the moon.  ( I think the Gear Goblin would have seen this device in his formative years, which might explain a few things...)

 

 

- Nigel

[Royal42]

1 hour ago, Valentin said:

I would avoid coiled rail - I don't know about code 40, but code 30 it's not prototypical (not flat bottom, nor bullhead) and it's a pain to straighten it. I used only code 30 for a narrow-gauge track and I straighten it using Mark Fielder's jig.

I've already bought a couple of coils so I shall have to use them.  I shall try a method I use for straightening fine wire, and that is to pull a piece from both ends until it snaps stiff.   I hope I've explained it well enough as it certainly works for wire and make really good aerials and rigging for ships etc.

 

cheers,
Mike

[Argos]

Presumably Nigel, you need to be ably helped by an assistant called Igor?

Is that essential or merely advisable? 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Argos

[Nigelcliffe]

32 minutes ago, Argos said:

Presumably Nigel, you need to be ably helped by an assistant called Igor?

Is that essential or merely advisable? 

 

Possibly that's where Bill went wrong: I don't think the Gear Goblin has ever used the name Igor.

 

( The contraption did work, and would straighten several pieces of rail in one pull.  ). 

[Nick Mitchell]

5 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

( I think the Gear Goblin would have seen this device in his formative years, which might explain a few things...)

 

He was indeed witness to this ritual... just once... though I believe the madness had already taken him by then.

[CF MRC]

 Bill also had an electrical soldering iron that glowed red hot. 
 

Tim

Edited May 25, 2021 by CF MRC

[flubrush]

In a way similar to Bill Blackburn's method,  but possibly a bit safer, :-)   I have used my RSU at full whack to do the heating.   I had the Code 40 wire rail and I chopped it into roughly 18" lengths.    One end of the rail length was clamped in my bench vice and one lead of the RSU was attached to the vice.  The free end of the length of rail was held in a pair of pliers and the croc clip of the other RSU lead was clipped to the rail next to the plier jaws.   Hit the foot switch of the RSU and when the rail starts to glow red hot,  then give it a sharp pull tight - similar to what you would do with unheated copper wire to straighten it.   It worked and the rail was pretty well straight.

 

Jim.