RMweb Premium Newbie2020 Posted June 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2021 SWMBO has very kindly bought me a Bachmann Class 66 for my Birthday which was recently named Capt Tom Moore. The model includes the etched name plates but they are not attached. As its a new and lovely model I thought I would check what is the best way to attach the name plates to the loco, as I really don't want to spoil the bodywork by using the wrong adhesive!! Any suggestions guys? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 (edited) Hi Newbie, 2 things you could try are PVA glue or clear silicone sealant both used on sparingly. You do not say if the name plates have attachment pins. or are just flat brass. Edited June 12, 2021 by cypherman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Newbie2020 Posted June 12, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2021 2 minutes ago, cypherman said: Hi Newbie, 2 things you could try are PVA glue or clear silicone sealant both used on sparingly. You do not say if the name plates have attachment pins. or are just flat brass. Hi, Just flat metal plates Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cypherman Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Hi Newbie, Then they should both work. The beauty of the silicone sealant is that you can remove the plates if you want with out damaging anything underneath. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Newbie2020 Posted June 12, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2021 Great thanks for that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 They'll be nickel silver I assume. Superglue. Or if you are a bit hesitant Glue N Glaze. People recommend Glue N Glaze as it dries clear. Just apply some to the back and fix. https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/glue-n-glaze You can also fix them with varnish or Klear/Clear. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 I had a little look to see if there was any online guides with methods to fixing them. Found this that might help. https://www.world-of-railways.co.uk/techniques/detailing-the-Dapol-western/ Jason 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurenceb Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 I once stuck some on "temporary" with some blu-tac, 20 years I noticed one had droped off 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium phil-b259 Posted June 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2021 I suggest some PVA - its what I used on my Hornby model. Yes you have to do it one side at a time (allowing each side to start to go off before turning / righting the loco) but excess PVA can easily be removed with a damp cotton bud / paint brush and should the nameplate ever need to be removed it should be able to be removed without damaging the printed detail beneath. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavymetalwagons Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 Just tried the pva on some grampus wagon plates. Seems to be ok would never have thought of trying pva many thanks for that tip. Thought there'd be a slow acting super glue out there somewhere by now!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 14, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 14, 2021 23 hours ago, laurenceb said: I once stuck some on "temporary" with some blu-tac, 20 years I noticed one had droped off Yes, but did it drop off 5 minutes after you attached it, or 5 minutes ago? Not enough information! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurenceb Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Probably sometime after bout 15 years. I wouldnt remend the idea. It was only supposed to be for a couple of days till I got some bostik but got forgotten! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Super glue can affect paint finishes. I use a spot of impact adhesive, applied wet so that when pressed on the spot spreads out. There will be a period of adjustment to get it straight but keep monitoring as it dries as it can move back. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 6 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said: Super glue can affect paint finishes. I use a spot of impact adhesive, applied wet so that when pressed on the spot spreads out. There will be a period of adjustment to get it straight but keep monitoring as it dries as it can move back. Can it? Never heard that before. Been using the stuff for about forty years with absolutely no problems whatsoever. If you are meaning spillages on things like car paint then yes. But you are sticking something with the amount you can fit on the end of a cocktail stick or pin, not covering the model with it. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted June 14, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) Glue and glaze for most purposes for me. The only trick is to catch it at the right 'setting' point, just as it starts to go clear. Apply the plate too soon and I find it wont go 'off' at all, too late and it wont grab. Easy with practice though. I wouldnt recommend superglue as firstly you only get one go, secondly it can't be removed and thirdly it can affect the paint finish or nearby glazing. Edited June 14, 2021 by MikeParkin65 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted June 14, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 14, 2021 5 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said: Can it? Never heard that before. Been using the stuff for about forty years with absolutely no problems whatsoever. If you are meaning spillages on things like car paint then yes. But you are sticking something with the amount you can fit on the end of a cocktail stick or pin, not covering the model with it. Jason I've got a Hornby Brit where I used the smallest of spots of superglue to reattach the whistle. When I went back to it the next day it had left a white stain a couple of millimeters around the join. Easy to pass off as a water stain but yes, it can mark finishes 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Matt varnish works for me. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 I use GS Hypo cement, available from Hobbycraft although I got mine from Andrew at Wizard Models. Also great for fixing glazing as it dries clear and any excess can be dissolved and brushed away using lighter fluid, IPA or similar. It can also be removed in the same away when dry. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Newbie2020 Posted June 15, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 15, 2021 Thanks for all of your ideas everyone. I went with the safe option of PVA and it looks pretty good! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 IMO never use superglue. Doesn't allow positioning adjustment and the runny stuff can ooze out if you put even the tiniest bit too much on. Then it is a devil to get off the paintwork without damage. I use good old Evo Stik impact - apply a tiny bit on a cocktail stick onto the centre of the nameplate - keeping it away from the edges and the ends. Position it on the model straight away (don't follow the manufacturers advice to wait - the tiny amount dries too quickly!). Should you happen to get a tiny bit of seepage, the almost dried glue will just roll off with no damage to the paintwork. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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