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Sticking on Name Plates


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SWMBO has very kindly bought me a Bachmann Class 66 for my Birthday which was recently named Capt Tom Moore. The model includes the etched name plates but they are not attached. As its a new and lovely model I thought I would check what is the best way to attach the name plates to the loco, as I really don't want to spoil the bodywork by using the wrong adhesive!! Any suggestions guys?

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Hi Newbie,

2 things you could try are PVA glue or clear silicone sealant both used on sparingly. You do not say if the name plates have attachment pins. or are just flat brass.

Edited by cypherman
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2 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi Newbie,

2 things you could try are PVA glue or clear silicone sealant both used on sparingly. You do not say if the name plates have attachment pins. or are just flat brass.

Hi, Just flat metal plates

 

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Hi Newbie,

Then they should both work. The beauty of the silicone sealant is that you can remove the plates if you want with out damaging anything underneath.

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I suggest some PVA - its what I used on my Hornby model.

 

Yes you have to do it one side at a time (allowing each side to start to go off before turning / righting the loco) but excess PVA can easily be removed with a damp cotton bud / paint brush and should the nameplate ever need to be removed it should be able to be removed without damaging the printed detail beneath.

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23 hours ago, laurenceb said:

I once stuck some on "temporary" with some blu-tac, 20 years I noticed one had droped off

Yes, but did it drop off 5 minutes after you attached it, or 5 minutes ago?

 

Not enough information!

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Probably sometime after bout 15 years. I wouldnt remend the idea. It was only supposed to be for a couple of days till I got some bostik but got forgotten!

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Super glue can affect paint finishes.  I use a spot of impact adhesive, applied wet so that when pressed on the spot spreads out.  There will be a period of adjustment to get it straight but keep monitoring as  it dries as it can move back.

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6 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said:

Super glue can affect paint finishes.  I use a spot of impact adhesive, applied wet so that when pressed on the spot spreads out.  There will be a period of adjustment to get it straight but keep monitoring as  it dries as it can move back.

 

Can it? Never heard that before.

 

Been using the stuff for about forty years with absolutely no problems whatsoever.

 

If you are meaning spillages on things like car paint then yes. But you are sticking something with the amount you can fit on the end of a cocktail stick or pin, not covering the model with it.

 

 

Jason

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Posted (edited)

Glue and glaze for most purposes for me. The only trick is to catch it at the right 'setting' point, just as it starts to go clear. Apply the plate too soon and I find it wont go 'off' at all, too late and it wont grab. Easy with practice though. I wouldnt recommend superglue as firstly you only get one go, secondly it can't be removed and thirdly it can affect the paint finish or nearby glazing. 

Edited by MikeParkin65
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5 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

Can it? Never heard that before.

 

Been using the stuff for about forty years with absolutely no problems whatsoever.

 

If you are meaning spillages on things like car paint then yes. But you are sticking something with the amount you can fit on the end of a cocktail stick or pin, not covering the model with it.

 

 

Jason

I've got a Hornby Brit where I used the smallest of spots of superglue to reattach the whistle. When I went back to it the next day it had left a white stain a couple of millimeters around the join. Easy to pass off as a water stain but yes, it can mark finishes

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I use GS Hypo cement, available from Hobbycraft although I got mine from Andrew at Wizard Models.  Also great for fixing glazing as it dries clear and any excess can be dissolved and brushed away using lighter fluid, IPA or similar. It can also be removed in the same away when dry.

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IMO never use superglue. Doesn't allow positioning adjustment and the runny stuff can ooze out if you put even the tiniest bit too much on.  Then it is a devil to get off the paintwork without damage.

 

I use good old Evo Stik impact - apply a tiny bit on a cocktail stick onto the centre of the nameplate - keeping it away from the edges and the ends.  Position it on the model straight away (don't follow the manufacturers advice to wait - the tiny amount dries too quickly!).

 

Should you happen to get a tiny bit of seepage, the almost dried glue will just roll off with no damage to the paintwork.

 

 

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