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Trelothen - a Cornish fishing harbour


Stubby47
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Consequence is also a factor.  If stuffing the wrong supply in causes (expensive) damage then physical difference is more of a requirement, if it ‘just doesn’t work’ then ‘so what’.

(Says he who has destroyed boards by stuffing 12V into 5V I/O connectors etc etc.)

Paul.

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More good progress today, two more Cobalts added & wired in.

I've also sorted the wiring so the 15-pin D connector is now at the proper r/h end.

 

Also had a delivery of the 9-pin D's, so the Yard Control Panel can be completed, the double 8-wire cable to the baseboard can be made and the plugs for the two Walkabout controllers changed to suit.

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In order to document the cabling, I've created a little spreadsheet table, which I've printed off and can manually update as each wire is connected. 

 

image.png.fb3d193eb2d7b56ba0f92ded55078672.png

The two bold boxes represent the two 9-pin D connections on the panel, then the Pin will be the 15-pin D connector on the layout.  ('Baseboard' above is the name of that end of the panel).

 

Meanwhile, I've been testing the motors with a 9v battery, as suggested. This is strong enough to drive 2 motors at once, and doesn't cause over running over the motor when the movement is complete.  So I'll test the actual voltage from the 12v DC output from the H&M Clipper.  This same supply is currently also used for the uncouplers, so I might need either a separate supply, or some sort of voltage step-down.

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Meanwhile, there is good news and not-so-good news.

 

The good news:  My O2 and grey Road van have been despatched by KMRC, so I would expect delivery tomorrow morning.

 

The not-so-good news: Due to a member of staff testing positive last week at the shop where Son #1 volunteers, Son #1 will not be at the shop tomorrow morning , so SWMBO will now not be in town when the O2 and Road Van are to be delivered...

 

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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

In order to document the cabling, I've created a little spreadsheet table, which I've printed off and can manually update as each wire is connected. 

 

image.png.fb3d193eb2d7b56ba0f92ded55078672.png

The two bold boxes represent the two 9-pin D connections on the panel, then the Pin will be the 15-pin D connector on the layout.  ('Baseboard' above is the name of that end of the panel).

 

Meanwhile, I've been testing the motors with a 9v battery, as suggested. This is strong enough to drive 2 motors at once, and doesn't cause over running over the motor when the movement is complete.  So I'll test the actual voltage from the 12v DC output from the H&M Clipper.  This same supply is currently also used for the uncouplers, so I might need either a separate supply, or some sort of voltage step-down.

 

 

 

Nope. Don't get it. 

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15 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

Meanwhile, there is good news and not-so-good news.

 

The good news:  My O2 and grey Road van have been despatched by KMRC, so I would expect delivery tomorrow morning.

 

The not-so-good news: Due to a member of staff testing positive last week at the shop where Son #1 volunteers, Son #1 will not be at the shop tomorrow morning , so SWMBO will now not be in town when the O2 and Road Van are to be delivered...

 

 

 

Go sick. 

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2 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Go sick. 

 

I'm already WFH, just that I can't sneak it in as SWMBO will get to the door first...

Edited by Stubby47
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I have that issue. When my 03 arrived, The Memsahib was out.  Result !!

 

Unboxed, stored and box disposed off. 

 

 

Memsahib arrived home. Noticed the door knocker had moved ( !!!!) and asked what I'd had delivered as the Postman wouldn't need to knock for a letter..............

 

:scratchhead:

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Following @St Enodoc's idea of a voltage regulator for his uncouplers, I've ordered these from Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DKQB1L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I can install one in each control panel, though I might knock out a couple more cable holes to help with cooling.

 

This is interesting (and a bit scary!)

 

https://www.themodelrailwayclub.org/controlling-electromagnetic-uncouplers/

Edited by Stubby47
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2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

I have that issue. When my 03 arrived, The Memsahib was out.  Result !!

 

Unboxed, stored and box disposed off. 

 

 

Memsahib arrived home. Noticed the door knocker had moved ( !!!!) and asked what I'd had delivered as the Postman wouldn't need to knock for a letter..............

 

:scratchhead:

 

Wasn't it a windy day Rob, that might have shifted the knocker ! 

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2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

I have that issue. When my 03 arrived, The Memsahib was out.  Result !!

 

Unboxed, stored and box disposed off. 

 

 

Memsahib arrived home. Noticed the door knocker had moved ( !!!!) and asked what I'd had delivered as the Postman wouldn't need to knock for a letter..............

 

:scratchhead:

 

The female of the species truly is deadlier than the male!

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6 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

 

I'm already WFH, just that I can't sneak it in as SWMBO will get to the door first...

Mow the front lawn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,s l o w l e y     every day:D

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6 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

 

Nothing like over complicating matters. I like the response in the comments section saying that a fixed magnet raised and lowered on a servo is an easier solution.

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8 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

Following @St Enodoc's idea of a voltage regulator for his uncouplers, I've ordered these from Amazon:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08DKQB1L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I can install one in each control panel, though I might knock out a couple more cable holes to help with cooling.

 

This is interesting (and a bit scary!)

 

https://www.themodelrailwayclub.org/controlling-electromagnetic-uncouplers/

That looks far too complicated.

 

Rule 1 - don't use cheap push-buttons. Either the contacts will weld together (bad) or the buttons will physically fall apart (not quite so bad). Used biased (sprung) toggle switches.

 

Rule 2 - connect a diode across the coli in the reverse direction to the normal current flow. This will reduce or even eliminate any arcing at the switch contacts when you turn the uncoupler off.

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I have got some biased (on)-off-(on) DPDT switches, but as they look the same as the point and loop isolation switches I opted for the push button ones.

 

I don't have any diodes.

 

Apart from one push button switch breaking on TF, I've not had any problems (so far).

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7 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

I don't have any diodes

Strongly recommend you get some!  I know they said 1N40xx series weren’t fully effective but they are cheap and taking out 90% of the voltage surge will significantly protect switches.  I would go for 1N4002 or 4003 for the increased reverse voltage protection.

 

A solution for toggle switches is to get coloured covers for the uncouplers.  Yellow ones are available!

 

And one final thought: the scare parts of the article were based on multiple (and possibly less skilled) operators being less aware of the risks and thus more likely to leave on for a longer time.

 

HTH,

 

Paul.

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Meanwhile, Operation Sneak-it-in has both succeeded and failed....

 

Failed, as due to being in a Teams meeting I was unable to intercept the Postman.

 

Succeeded, as the package was left downstairs for me with no questions asked.  And the O2 looks very good, without any warped running plates.

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6 hours ago, bgman said:

 

You'll be asked to be in the next James Bond film soon ! 

 

Dr Kananga, The Solar Plexus voltage reduction units have arrived, ready for Operation Main Strike.

 

 

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