My fish (plates) won't mate

[rab]

Hi,

 

Can someone please help me before I waste any more rail joiners,

or anymore track gets thrown across the railway room!

 

I've finally started trying to lay track.  I've stocked up with lengths of flexitrack

and packets of rail joiners.  I've also got myself a pair of Xuron track cutters,

the ones that cut across the track.

 

I'm cutting the track to length, filing the ends with a tapered lead, and,

eventually, getting the joiner onto the first piece of track.

When I try to assemble the second length of track to the joiner,

the joiner just slides along the first length of track.

 

I have read somewhere that the joiners can be tightened onto the track with pliers,

but all this seems to do is distort the joiner, making it loose on the second piece.

 

A: What am I doing wrong please?

 

B: When tightening the joiners with pliers, do you apply the pressure vertically,

squeezing between the bottom face of the track and the top of the flange web,

or horizontally, squeezing the joiner onto the sides of the web.

 

C: Is an acceptable alternative to lightly centre punch the bottom of the joiner

into the bottom of the track.

 

D: Should I resort to soldering the joiner to the first piece of track.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yours,

 

Frustrated!!

 

Edited July 14, 2021 by rab

[brossard]

Fishplates can require easing slightly as they are tight when new.  I take a piece of scrap rail and file an easement onto the ends and lower flange.  I find that pushing the fishplate onto the rail and moving it back and forth a couple of times makes it easier to fit.  Careful not to cut yourself, fishplates are sharp.

 

John

[Wheatley]

Assuming your second rail is actually going into the fishplate and not snagging on it, try holding it still by gripping the top of the first rail and the bottom of the fishplate with pliers, although fingers should be sufficient. 

 

If the second rail is snagging on the fishplate then ease it slightly as Brossard suggests. 

[brossard]

I would make another point.  Best practice says that fishplates should be used for track alignment, not electricity conduction.  When new, things will work fine but over time with fishplates loosening, dirt and tarnish, resistance at the joint will likely increase and you could get dead spots.  Best to solder dropper wires to each rail and connect them to a power buss.

 

Soldering fishplates will prevent the rails from expanding and contracting.

 

John

[BR60103]

Rab: Even after cutting the track with the Xuron cutters, you need to trim the end with a file. One piece will be a lot cleaner than the other, but still needs a little attention. (Apologies if you do this already.)

If my rail joiners slide too easily, I take them off and gently squeeze them down -- long nose pliers across the joiner at about 1/3 and 2/3 the way along.

I also have a short length of rail with the bottom bit tapered to go into the rail joiner in case it is too tight.

 

[Siberian Snooper]

In the club, we put the joiner/fishplate on, take it off turn it around and fit it again, then add the next piece of track.

 

 

[Campaman]

I have a piece of rail inserted into a small piece of wood that I slide the rail joiner onto first to open both ends out ready for the actual track.

 

Think of it like a piece of rail fixed in a file handle.

[andyman7]

 

3 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

In the club, we put the joiner/fishplate on, take it off turn it around and fit it again, then add the next piece of track.

 

 

In addition to that technique, it can be worth test fitting the fishplate to the the first bit of track, removing it and then test fitting the other end to the other bit of track - thus ensuring the fishplate is not snagging or too loose on either rail it needs to slide into before the final joining. Once laid, a fishplate can be centred by easing it using a fine flat bladed screwdriver to prod it in the direction of adjustment needed.

[rab]

Thank you all for your responses.

Armed with these, and having had

a couple of days away from the layout,

I'm now having a bit more success.

 

The consumption of track joiners

has dropped to a more sensible level,

and track is now staying on the bench,

not flying around the railway room.

Edited July 18, 2021 by rab

[Michael Hodgson]

On 15/07/2021 at 02:39, BR60103 said:

Rab: Even after cutting the track with the Xuron cutters, you need to trim the end with a file. One piece will be a lot cleaner than the other, but still needs a little attention. (Apologies if you do this already.)

 

Definitely, but I find that cutting with a slitting disc in a Dremel is not quite as rough as the Xuron.

[KingEdwardII]

On 18/07/2021 at 19:27, Michael Hodgson said:

I find that cutting with a slitting disc in a Dremel is not quite as rough

That's true - but I still need to apply a file to both ends of the cut rail before inserting the fishplates. The Dremel still leaves burrs that need to be removed.

 

Yours,  Mike.

[5BarVT]

49 minutes ago, KingEdwardII said:

That's true - but I still need to apply a file to both ends of the cut rail before inserting the fishplates. The Dremel still leaves burrs that need to be removed.

Agreed, even a fine toothed razor saw leaves burrs that need attention.

Large file for smoothing the end and foot, needle file for the corners between foot and web.

Preferably without inserting the point into the finger.

Paul.

[Stephen Freeman]

A fine toothed piercing saw is even better