N Gauge 2-10-0 White Metal Kit on Fleischmann Chassis

[Granger]

Hello,

Firstly, I am new to this forum although I have made a few comments on other topics. Please, if I have done anything wrong, instruct me on how to correct my mistake. Thank you.

 

My problem is that I have recently acquired an N gauge kit-built loco of unknown origins on a Fleischmann chassis (photos attached). To clarify, although if you know the chassis your probably aware, the motor is in the tender and the pick-ups are on the loco wheels.

After thoroughly servicing, I managed to get things running smoothly off track. When on the track, the loco stuggles to push the loco (forward) and is only slightly better at hauling (reverse). The wheels just spin indicating a lack of traction so I've added some lead weight to the tender but I've just about exhausted the amount I can fit in it. I do think the loco body seems to have a little too much weight and that maybe removing some of this would help (at least the loco runs okay with the loco body removed), however, I'm too scared to do this for fear of damaging the body or ruining the aesthetics.

 

In short what I'm asking is whether anybody can shed any light on the make of the white metal body kit and how, if at all, I can remove some weight from the loco body. 

Also, are there usually any problems with the Fleischmann 2-10-0 chassis not having enough traction? I'm largely unfamiliar with European manufacturers but the few experiences I have had have all been positive.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited July 15, 2021 by Granger

[Scottish Modeller]

Hi there,

 

Foxhunter Models - WD 2-10-0

 

Good model at the time it was introduced.

 

Massive haulage ability - I had one that could take 100 Peco wagons round a large layout with 15" radius return loops.

 

I never had a problem with it's weight, but it needed to be kept serviced and needed pickups to be tweaked regularly. Didn't want them too tight, but also needed to make sure they kept in contact all the time.

 

This one probably has never been serviced and that is where I would start.

 

Thanks

Phil H

[Bomag]

I was not aware foxhunter did a model of the 2-10-0 only the 2-8-0. However it's not a difficult job to make it fit.

 

I have a Fleischmann class 50 for mine and it a good powerful runner if as long as the loco driving wheel are free ruining - it does need the occasional clean as well as a light oil in between. 

[Granger]

Thanks for the quick responses. 

I've now applied some oil to the loco wheel bearings and con-rods. This has somewhat improved performance, and I think this was probably my original problem.

Since then I have added a piece of plastic because the screw holes in the body were too wide with wear and I think this may now be pressing down on 1 axle. Unfortunately, I won't be able to look at this for about a week & a half, but hopefully when I do, I'll find it's a simple fix.

 

Regards 

[RichardT]

14 hours ago, Bomag said:

 

I was not aware foxhunter did a model of the 2-10-0 only the 2-8-0. However it's not a difficult job to make it fit

 

I’m not sure Foxhunter did either. Might it be an old McGowan Models kit - they did both the 2-8-0 & 2-10-0 Austerities? Quite crude kits IIRC.

 

Richard T

Edited July 16, 2021 by RichardT
Punctuation

[Scottish Modeller]

On 16/07/2021 at 23:47, RichardT said:

I’m not sure Foxhunter did either. Might it be an old McGowan Models kit - they did both the 2-8-0 & 2-10-0 Austerities? Quite crude kits IIRC.

 

Richard T

Hi Richard,

 

I also wondered about the McGowan kit but when I checked my sold models list I could not see a reference to Mcgowan Models - only to a Foxhunter model I sold in 1984. 

 

It's possible that I did get the Mcgowan Models 2-10-0 when it came out, but, if I did, I have no recollection of building one. I know we did have both the McGowan Models and Foxhunter kits for sale in the shop at the time though.

 

Like you, I thoought the McGowan Models were rough castings, but there were worse castings out there!

 

Thanks

Phil H

 

EDIT - I had to go into my loft earlier today - whilst up there I had a dig about in the records box (Don't ask why I have records for tax purposes going back to 1977!) It appears I was wrong and that I bought 2 McGowan Kits and chassis for them at the Xmas 1977 Manchester Exhibition for the princely sum of £98.00 from Norman!

 

Edited July 18, 2021 by Scottish Modeller

[John Tomlinson]

I have a number of the Fleischmann 2-10-0 chassis under their German Br.50 locos in "N" gauge. All have been bought secondhand on ebay, in varying conditions, and all have been dismantled and serviced by me. Only one had ended up in difficulty, being one that had obviously done a lot of miles and had very worn axle holes in the tender which, as you note, does the driving.

 

Various things for you to think about.

 

1)  as noted above, the loco wheels which are unpowered, must move freely. Check the chassis is clean and free, with just a touch of light oil to help free motion. Make sure as well that the various parts of the rods and valve gear aren't fouling.

 

2)  the weight of the loco actually helps the unpowered wheels to turn, so don't make your body too light otherwise it will just skid along.

 

3)  turning to the tender, as for loco, everything nice and clean and a touch only of lubrication on the axles. Are the motor brushes clean and working properly?

 

4)  the tender wheels have traction tyres. Are these all present - look for empty grooves - and also if they are old they may be hard and smooth so not doing their proper gripping. If you need some more measure the wheel diameter and do a search on Peters Spares as they stock various sizes.

 

5)  tender weight. As supplied by Fleischmann the tenders have some carefully cast weights that surround the motor and help adhesion. Are yours so fitted? Also, if the Fleischmann weights are present they are of Mazak, which can distort and also bloom, if possible take them out and check, and give them a stiff brush before refitting.

 

A final note, and this applies to 4mm as well. Don't believe the widespread view that tender drives are rubbish. Older UK ones are rubbish simply because they weren't very well made and/or designed, Continental practice in both 2mm and 4mm shows they can work very well.

 

John.

[SamThomas]

John has summed it up very well, especially regarding the traction tyres - they can als expand a little, grip the track but slip in the wheel grooves.

 

The Limby & Hornby tender drives were cheap copies of European (I hate that word "Continental") mechanisms with the predictable poor view of tender drives.

Indeed, a certain manufacturer of OO models used to use Fleischmann Tender Drive units on their factory dispaly layouts.

 

Personally, I would obtain genuine Flesichmann Traction Tyres.

 

You could also apply a tiny, tiny drop of Track Magic to the pickups to help conductivity whist keeping the friction down.

[John Tomlinson]

38 minutes ago, SamThomas said:

John has summed it up very well, especially regarding the traction tyres - they can als expand a little, grip the track but slip in the wheel grooves.

 

The Limby & Hornby tender drives were cheap copies of European (I hate that word "Continental") mechanisms with the predictable poor view of tender drives.

Indeed, a certain manufacturer of OO models used to use Fleischmann Tender Drive units on their factory dispaly layouts.

 

Personally, I would obtain genuine Flesichmann Traction Tyres.

 

You could also apply a tiny, tiny drop of Track Magic to the pickups to help conductivity whist keeping the friction down.

Hi Sam,

 

I'd completely agree re. the authentic Fleischmann traction tyres, the question is - where from?

 

Likely to be seriously expensive as a one-off item ordered from Germany.

 

Perhaps you know a source?

 

John.

[Granger]

Hello all,

Thanks for the detail, I never thought this simple question would elicit so many responses. I'm currently unable to look at the loco and will be unable to for a week or so.

 

I think I'm going to start by looking at some plastic I added to the the loco body because the screw holes had worn - I think this might be impeding the wheels. 

I'm confident the motor works and I'm also confident that there's now enough weight in the tender although I don't think I have the Fleischmann weights.

 

I was wondering about the traction tyres as I originally mistook them for copper (or similar) rings (presumably to aid pick-ups, but soon realised they weren't. I other words I think they've gone hard.

 

To jump in on the debate about the body kit. The casting is hardly detailed but I wouldn't describe it as crude. I think there is limited cab detail if that helps?

 

Thanks

[SamThomas]

4 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Perhaps you know a source?

You could try ;

www.euroscalemodels.co.uk

 

[SamThomas]

12 hours ago, Granger said:

I was wondering about the traction tyres as I originally mistook them for copper (or similar) rings (presumably to aid pick-ups, but soon realised they weren't. I other words I think they've gone hard.

The earlier traction tyres were made from a natural nylon type material that did indeed turn a browny sort of colour when hard. The later ones are made from a more rubbery stuff & are black.

(same goes for the HO ones).

Edited July 18, 2021 by SamThomas
tiepoo

[Granger]

Hello,

I haven't thoroughly tested the loco yet, but I've replaced the traction tyres and trimmed the plastic I'd added for the screw. This appears to have significantly improved performance with general smooth running in both directions.

 

Tha k you for your help, just a bit of fine tuning required now.