Primrose No2 in 7mm

[doilum]

Spot the difference!

Yes the brake gear is now all in place. I had made up the triple etch shoes/ hanger last night but decided they were too good. They go together well and sit perfectly, but the clearances were almost prototypical. I had the choice of grinding back the shoes but, having a set of Slater's shoes to hand, opted to make new hangers from scrap etch and save the nice ones for another day.

[Michael Edge]

We haven't been accused of making things too good before......

[doilum]

[doilum]

I lost my text!!!

The instructions suggest building the cab as a separate bolt on module. I have long admired scratch builders who use this approach, but, in the words of Clint Eastwood, " a man must know his limitations". Clumsy fingers and failing eyesight make this miniature Meccano approach a non starter for me. The modular approach requires absolute faith in the accuracy of the etchings. They are spot on. Whilst I built the cab in situ, given another to build I might well try the modular approach and solder it once completed. One advantage of this is the ability to triple check that the cab is absolutely dead central on the footplate assuming that it is absolutely square in the first place.

[Michael Edge]

The main reason for building the cab as a bolt on sub assembly is to be able to solder the roof on with access from below. Soldering it all up on the footplate is fine but you will need to make the roof removable. In the same way the boiler can be permanently assembled on the loco but I would recommend sticking to pegging the saddle tank into the cab - at least until everything else is finished.

[doilum]

21 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

The main reason for building the cab as a bolt on sub assembly is to be able to solder the roof on with access from below. Soldering it all up on the footplate is fine but you will need to make the roof removable. In the same way the boiler can be permanently assembled on the loco but I would recommend sticking to pegging the saddle tank into the cab - at least until everything else is finished.

I have long used the peg system to get a saddle tank positioned. My own approach to the cab roof involves the use of the RSU to finally secure the roof once all the painting is complete. I appreciate that most builders won't have access to this bit of kit but I have one and it works for me.

[doilum]

An excellent morning in the workshop. This is the scary bit hoping that all the modules come together without too much califudging. The boiler and firebox have been scratch built. The tank and smoke box use short lengths of wire to locate them. Having taken the plunge and soldered the smoke box in place and then soldered the boiler to the firebox front, it was with great relief when the tank clicks into place like a piece of Lego. This must be my first saddle tank that has not needed even the slightest adjustment or cheating.

If the front of the tank looks a tad high this will be corrected with a little downward pressure as I finally secure it with solder. I need to sit down and draw up a plan for final detailing before priming.

[doilum]

Nothing much to report apart from small details added before prepping for primer. One big question though: did Primrose have a cab roof ventilation hatch? Almost all Hunslets did, but I don't want to chop out a hole only to be told that she was the exception to the rule.  I haven't found a definitive photo yet. Can anyone help?

[doilum]

I just managed to squeeze enough paint out of the ancient rattle can that I had made up to match NCB red. To be fair there is an off the shelf can from Holt that is almost identical. This tight fisted approach is not to be recommended and could easily have either run out or finished with a final splurt causing runs. With the driver and glazing in place all that remains is to finish the roof. I have come to the conclusion that Primrose No2 didn't have a roof vent. If anyone knows different please let me know. It wouldn't be too difficult to add one in the closed position later. Buffers and name plate are on order.

Edited August 18, 2021 by doilum

[doilum]

This mornings task was to get the roof on. A five minute task with the RSU leaving no collateral damage to the paint work. Having carefully neutralised the flux with a little bathroom cleaner and toothbrush it was straight on to the paint. I had no joy in getting the masking tape to adhere to the cab sides ( tried both Frog tape and a budget item) so I went to plan B with a brush. Having sprayed the automotive etch primer into a pot I gave the roof a light coat. This was followed an hour later with the first of two coats of Humbrol matt 33 black. This is touch dry in ten minutes or so. Having made coffee I dug out some Fox lettering and applied the NCB logo to the cab sides. A touch of matt varnish sealed them in. Final task was to reunite body and chassis and check it still ran sweetly. Once the buffers and name plates are fitted it will get the very lightest of weathering touches reflecting the smart working condition that it finished it's NCB days in.

[Barclay]

Hi I too have bodged along with both Frog and automotive masking tape but when I asked a professional (Squirrel Rail on here) he recommended Tamiya tape and it is a lot better.

[doilum]

4 hours ago, Barclay said:

Hi I too have bodged along with both Frog and automotive masking tape but when I asked a professional (Squirrel Rail on here) he recommended Tamiya tape and it is a lot better.

Thanks. I have not had the problem before. I just put it down to the gloss finish which I had gently knocked back with 2000 grade.

The Frog Tape is orange and not as good as a previous green roll.

Edited August 19, 2021 by doilum

[doilum]

Final update: the nameplates arrived this morning from Narrow Planet. My method of mounting is to solder a peg of handrail wire in the centre of the rear and then drill a locating hole before securing with cyno.