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Express Daisy Sidings - Anshurst - an Inglenook


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On 06/09/2021 at 18:47, brightspark said:

This one.

 

image.png.72b15c26acc8184d098790edf58b5caf.png

I like the Art Deco style (?) windows. Again a canopy over the platform.

 

Please post a picture as I would like to see how it looks on your layout. 

I have a habit of keeping magazine giveaways along with articles of particular interest, I will have a look through the many folders at the weekend and if I have it I can post to you if you wish.

 

Post script -  I have just found the full article and also a low relief railway works, I have no use for either so I will get a suitable envelope tomorrow and send over to you in the post.

Edited by bodmin16
Found the article see post script
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On 05/09/2021 at 16:10, brightspark said:

The righthand block is about the size of the Walthers model but lowered. If I used this it would of course have a flat roof and perhaps retain the structure on top of the roof.

I would remove two of the floors if this was used.

image.png.b6214ee1066be8dcd8879334277f8d22.png

 

Westerner of this parish used the same kit as the basis for the creamery on his excellent layout "Wencombe" and it came out really well. Definitely captures that 1930s industrial vibe which many creameries had.

 

DME 4.jpg

 

chimney2.jpg

Edited by Karhedron
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On 05/09/2021 at 16:10, brightspark said:

I'll leave you with a shot of two of the tankers that I purchased.  After looking at this thread on milk tank liveries, I am sure that the selection that I have gathered are incorrect for the period while at the same time possibly correct.

 

(these two liveries are in the film)

20210904_193713.jpg.a40b78c13cb90e9e6d9d412b0f655b55.jpg

 

I they should be fine as both liveries co-existed for over a decade. The latest date I have for a blue Express Dairies tanker is 1965 at Carlisle (probably an Appleby tank).

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On 15/09/2021 at 11:38, Karhedron said:

 

Westerner of this parish used the same kit as the basis for the creamery on his excellent layout "Wencombe" and it came out really well. Definitely captures that 1930s industrial vibe which many creameries had.

 

DME 4.jpg

 

chimney2.jpg

That's exactly what I was thinking of.

Note how it has been cut down.

Certainly food for thought for any future project.

 

However, Bodmin16 has been very generous and sent me these.

 

1052895379_20210913_195356(2).jpg.8a1f65fbedf21121a1cebdc8a264922c.jpg

 

The free kits from Hornby Magazine. 

The Railway works is available to buy, However the Dairy is not, which I feel is a shame.

 

Knocking up a space model, they look like they fit the 4' long baseboard quite nicely. 

 

493561204_20210913_195226(2).jpg.80eabc4221c625cb99abec9ddba2ac1d.jpg

 

So  thanks Alan.

 

Andy

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  • 2 weeks later...

You can never have sufficient churns - I think there's about 30 on this lorry (from Dart Castings), and it's both heavy, which is unimportant, and pricey, which is more significant. The dairy on my layout will be - mostly - offscene, but this is part of the set dressing which shows its presence. I've noted Alan's new figures and one or two will indeed make an appearance...

 

FFK_009.jpg.97de56fceb4f665a5523d71633907cfa.jpg

 

Adam

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1 hour ago, Adam said:

You can never have sufficient churns - I think there's about 30 on this lorry (from Dart Castings), and it's both heavy, which is unimportant, and pricey, which is more significant. The dairy on my layout will be - mostly - offscene, but this is part of the set dressing which shows its presence. I've noted Alan's new figures and one or two will indeed make an appearance...

 

FFK_009.jpg.97de56fceb4f665a5523d71633907cfa.jpg

 

Adam

Morris Wagon?
Lovely work, brings back a few memories.
Regards,
Chris.

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51 minutes ago, Sandhole said:

Morris Wagon?
Lovely work, brings back a few memories.
Regards,
Chris.

 

An Austin, but effectively the same thing, barring the grill (the cab came with BMC badges too, I think) - the motor might well have been different?


Adam

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17 hours ago, brightspark said:

That's a HUGE number of milk churns.

I wonder if I have enough?

 

A single GWR siphon could carry over 100 churns and some dairies could fill multiple siphons. So probably no risk of putting too many churns on a layout. ;)

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11 minutes ago, Karhedron said:

 

A single GWR siphon could carry over 100 churns and some dairies could fill multiple siphons. So probably no risk of putting too many churns on a layout. ;)

I have done a bit of churn handling.
All I can say is, "Thank goodness for bulk collection!"
Chris.

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11 minutes ago, Sandhole said:

I have done a bit of churn handling.
All I can say is, "Thank goodness for bulk collection!"
Chris.

In Pembrokeshire, in the 70s, we had St Ivel in Bedford TK tankers. They employed 'young guns'. These boys regularly forgot physics and turned them over, when the milk surged.
In Wiltshire, we had old boys working for Coop tankers driving Leylands and ERFs. Those lads were good, no turn-overs and I got a cheeky drive in an ERF.
Glass Fibre cab with wrap round windscreen. EFE did the cab as well as the Excellent Transport Miniatures.
Fot us 50s, 60s, 70s and 80's wagon freaks, a great company.
I'll now get my coat,
Chris.

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I built the Hornby Magazine Creamery in 0 gauge:

 

P1010120.JPG.2e6079ee8deab029848f6b460d8f5992.JPG

 

It came out well.  I need to find some suitable signage for Milk Marketing Board.

 

There's another kit:

 

https://www.3dk.ca/product-page/oo-26-dairy-creamery-building-kit

 

This looks really good.

 

I like the ModelU Creamery workers set.

 

John

 

 

Edited by brossard
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On 29/09/2021 at 17:20, brossard said:

I built the Hornby Magazine Creamery in 0 gauge:

 

P1010120.JPG.2e6079ee8deab029848f6b460d8f5992.JPG

 

It came out well.  I need to find some suitable signage for Milk Marketing Board.

 

There's another kit:

 

https://www.3dk.ca/product-page/oo-26-dairy-creamery-building-kit

 

This looks really good.

 

I like the ModelU Creamery workers set.

 

John

 

 

Hi John,

 

It looks great. But how did you produce this in O? 

 

I get the impression that it was a OO print. Did you blow it up on a photocopier?

 

The other creamery in the link also looks good. But I think that Scalescenes have put more thought into hiding cardboard ends.

 

Meanwhile I have got around halfway through the low relief factory.

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You are right, the kit is designed for 4mm.  For 7mm I get my printer to blow the prints up by 175%.  Windows are always problematic when doing this.  I scratch built the windows by layering Evergreen strip.

 

I built a 3dk kit recently, the Yard Office, just to see what they are like.  I agree that the ends leave a lot to be desired.  I will probably rebuild the office using Scalescenes methods.  You can buy material sheets so I will see how I might use these.  Otherwise I was happy with the kit.

 

When I build card kits lately, I am using self adhesive address label stock more and more.  I either print directly onto the label stock or glue my print to it.  It is a bit expensive vs paper and glue stick though.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time to report in.

 

Progress is ongoing with the buildings that bodmin16 kindly provided.

On seeing the completed factory unit SWMBO commented that she has worked in buildings just like that.

I have used the windows from Scaleglaze. These are printed directly on a  clear film. A bit bright at the moment and of course lack the layers and depth that you can get from etched frames or even scratch build, but are effective and will suit the purposes of this project. I will tone them down a bit later on.

 

261391430_20211010_165646(2).jpg.a33226cca22ee6199c0b804e9e34c254.jpg

 

I have also had an enquiry about showing this and having said yes, I have to fill in the exhibitors form and that is asking questions about footprint, lighting, power supply and do I want a table to put it on.

So today I had a look at how I want to exhibit this. I think that such a small layout can be more or less completed in time to a presentable standard. Although there is scope for more detailing afterwards.

This is the mock up.

 

20211010_165638.jpg.749fcd61f7192603f560f83718a83b1e.jpg

 

Height is 48" so it can viewed standing and sat in the high chairs.

 

I know that this is too high for wheelchairs and very small children. However if a youngster wants to have a go we can sit them in a high chair and this should bring them up to the correct height. 

What do you think?

 

It is intended to accompany the EMGS stand to provide a point of interest and to demonstrate an way of getting into EM without having to convert all of your stock and layout (if you are a OO modeller) or if you are new to the hobby that not all layouts have to go round and round or even that shunting planks can be fun. (Mr Wright?)

 

TTFN

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On 10/10/2021 at 22:57, brightspark said:

Not I have also had an enquiry about showing this and having said yes, I have to fill in the exhibitors form and that is asking questions about footprint, lighting, power supply and do I want a table to put it on.

Not sure if I have mentioned this here, but Thames Valley Sidings has also had an invite for 2022, I never intended it for showing and like you I have got think about how to show it!  One thing I have given some thought to is lighting, but I won't hijack this thread and will update mine for TVS at some point.  Glad the buildings are of some use.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi All,

 

First of all congratulations Alan. I will see how you get on. Perhaps you can share at the next area group meeting, that I think is down your way.

 

The past 3 weeks have seen some intensive activity in putting together the two Scalescenes buildings that were kindly provided by Alan.

 

677764859_20211031_175550(2).jpg.ed142bfcee8809be236c2f3461b76386.jpg

 

I have been playing around with their positions and was considering adding another structure in between. However I think that it looks quite balanced.

The intermediate structure would have been a loading bay for the daily churn collection. But the layout isn't deep enough to have a flatbed truck backed up to the dock.

Oh well!

 

With the two main structures in place. I now need to think about the two ends.

 

First is the end next to the sidings. 

 

20211031_175612-2.jpg.7f3cbe65ebdb79f58abe542cb4ebbffe.jpg

I am thinking of either just an end of a building, made up of Will's corrugated asbestos sheet, or using the free low relief warehouse. Again from Scalescenes. 

If I choose the latter could line up the door next the office with the middle siding, making it look like the siding continues through the door. The door will be firmly shut thus restricting the siding length.

Are there any opinions on this, or even other ideas?

 

At the other end....

 

2137343458_20211031_180118(2).jpg.3ff7729de49cf41600e61204b22e008b.jpg

 

... I fancy a row of trees against the backscene. 

I have some rather ancient conifers from John Piper.

These are not in the league of that nice Mr Gravett, but they have been kicking around for some time and I think that they should work as a backgound effect.

 

I am still pondering the foreground.

Anybody got any suggestions?

 

Meanwhile, it's time to place some rolling stock on the rails and take a step back to see how it's coming on.

486163067_20211031_175558(2).jpg.49640cb36279284499bb45c785fd9bd8.jpg

 

777259584_20211031_175745(2).jpg.1b044c1e9fa77cac659aa1ee847fad72.jpg

 

20211031_175829.jpg.edc788c3fbf865a9373fe3b4d0adc8f4.jpg

 

Yes, I am pleased with that.

 

 

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So this week...

 

Today I have started on the scenic box that forms the backdrop, sides and wings etc. This I made out of hardboard. Perhaps not the best material, but I have a lot of it and I think that it will be strong enough if correctly braced and doesn't suffer a heavy trauma.

 

20211107_171508-2.jpg.a5d342a2d3e3da8afe18254097020d96.jpg

 

Here is the box so far with some old Peco backscenes tacked on to test out the idea.

 

It has gone a little awry at the left hand end. The level crossing will need some fettling to fit. But the corner should be hidden by the gate and whatever I stick in the corner. Probably a hedge.

 

20211107_171134-2.jpg.4cd0a4bc1746128ccfd0c816b5c1f28c.jpg

 

 

At the right hand end, after some fiddling around with yet more cardboard mock-ups, I have decided that a wall will mark the end of the layout. I am planning on having a road entrance between the front and middle sidings. ( to the right of the picture below)

 

20211107_171138-2.jpg.78143856dbc93a5728ab45865676574d.jpg

 

In the corner between the wall and the dairy building, I am thinking of a small nondescript structure. 

 

This week also saw me finishing infilling of the track in front of the dairy.

 

20211107_171222-2.jpg.ba5988f3bbf919e295f112b42616af35.jpg

 

I have always wanted infilled track.

As a child I used to look at the Triang Minitrix road system, where the railway line was embedded in the road. I had never seen anything like that in real life until a visit to the Navy day at Portsmouth. It was here that I saw for the first time rails in the road around the docks.

I was so enthralled that when I got home I started to make an inlaid trackway. This I did by pushing down hard a Triang fish van into the soft wood of the windowsill in my bedroom. 

Dad was not so impressed by my handiwork.

 

But inlaid track is, to my mind, pure industrial,. With the exception of  trams.

 

20211107_171612-2.jpg.58afe27cb2153f5298ccaa700ece4670.jpg

 

There are several methods of filling in the tracks. The most common is to infill with either plaster or DAS and push a wagon along it to clear the flangeways.

 

I have used both of these techniques in the past and found them unsatisfactory. First because of the weight of all that plaster. Secondly because any rough handling causes the plaster to crack. Third is that wear caused by passing rolling stock exposes the white plaster, that then needs retouching. 

 

So I was rather taken by an article by the late John Pryke in the Model Railroader of his layout Union Freight. This was a five part article in the four editions from September 2000. 

 

He later wrote a book called Building City Scenery for your model railroad, that I believe also describes the technique.

The method is simply to use poster board on the areas outside of the 4 foot and to use Plastikard (I used 0.030") between the tracks. This should be more reliable and avoid the problems that I mentioned.

 

The next task is to paint it. I have a pot of acrylic concrete by Mig. My local model shop advise that this is what the military modellers use.

 

I'll let you know how I get on with it. :)

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14 hours ago, brightspark said:

The method is simply to use poster board on the areas outside of the 4 foot and to use Plastikard (I used 0.030") between the tracks. This should be more reliable and avoid the problems that I mentioned.

 

I have never been convinced of that method. Every time I've seen it used the plastikard is laid on the sleepers and the sleepers and baseboard have been left showing through the flangeway. Have you left the sleepers showing or have you covered them before adding the layer of plastikard that comes up to rail top level?

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On 08/11/2021 at 11:40, Ruston said:

I have never been convinced of that method. Every time I've seen it used the plastikard is laid on the sleepers and the sleepers and baseboard have been left showing through the flangeway. Have you left the sleepers showing or have you covered them before adding the layer of plastikard that comes up to rail top level?

 

Hi Dave,

 

I took the precaution of painting the area inside the groove a dark colour. John  Pryke used black, but I preferred a dark grey as I think that it will be less of a conflict with the other colours.

 

I took some photos trying to be a cruel as possible.

 

20211109_205651-2.jpg.c850ff4c981f7abe425206604c608f92.jpg

 

By the way, I only painted the areas that were likely to be seen.

 

20211109_205807-2.jpg.d3c3b8e4d6e0a399896238a0dd53800b.jpg

 

This photo is really zoomed in.

Yes I am still painting on the concrete and it does need both rubbing down and a few more coats.

 

The problem is that we have to compromise as our track and wheel standards let us down.

HO/OO wheels and flanges can be quite thick and the tighter radii that are possible in 16.5 means that the gap will be wider than the broader gauges.

A study of JP's Union Freight Railroad shows what he did with Peco short turnouts. That included narrowing the flangeway gap for NMRA HO wheels.

 

This track is in EM, that means that I can't have curves that are as tight. These points are A5's so are approx 3' radius.

 

Of course the real problem is the flange thickness and to get that shallow flangeway you would have to go for P4 or even S4. 

 

Yes, you can still see sleepers and baseboard. But I think that in this case it will work.  I am hoping that the combination of a suitable colour fill with a smaller flangeway gap coupled with a restricted view that only allows it to be observed both side on and at a shallow angle will hide the compromise.

 

Andy

 

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I was feeling pretty pleased with myself, having infilled the track and given it a quick coat of concrete paint.

 

20211114_171119-2.jpg.4b64a30d40d133bbaabc649044a538db.jpg

 

Yes, that is exactly what I was after.

 

A little bit of cleaning up as I had to get the paint off the rails. The little 48DS doesn't like having any interruptions on the rail front. 

 

Then it was time to have a quick play...errr run through an operating sequence.

 

And this is where I realised that the design had a flaw.

 

Mr Ruston had asked about seeing the sleepers and baseboard being visible, I have that covered.

I was concerned that there may be tightness of the back to back clearance, also covered and ready to some adjustments.

 

But what I had not considered was the space required for the AJ coupling.

 

For those who are not familiar with this and for people like me who thought that they were...

 

The AJ coupling can be described as a wire that protrudes out of the end of the wagon with a bent end that hooks onto the next coupling. The other end being fixed at some point further along the wagon. Hanging down from it is a 1mm iron armature located behind the wheel nearest to the coupled end. When this runs over a magnet it pulls the coupling down and causes it to uncouple.

 

The armature must be 1mm to 1.5mm above rail height and when pulling the coupling down will move 3mm.

 

If some fool has infilled the track flush with the top of the rails then the stock won't uncouple as the armature hits the infill.

 

As a short term remedy, I have cut  a slot in the middle of the 4' to clear this. The coupler now works.

 

20211114_210302-2.jpg.7461eda7d02f723764d711b7c2c201b4.jpg

 

I will also have to do the middle road and rethink the scheme of the infill.

 

Does anyone have any ideas?

 

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8 hours ago, brightspark said:

Does anyone have any ideas?

You can get plasticard that is very thin, almost like paper. Either end of your slot you could put a small support and only glue the plasticard to it at one end, leaving the other end free to slide as the coupling deflects it down when uncoupling. It will spring back when not pushed down and can be painted to match the fill, just looking like a patch repair? Test the idea with a bit of paper or thin clear plastic from the window on packaging?

 

Normal flush position

 

933A2165-6E3C-467D-BDA2-E0B55AF99780.jpeg.f4c2f36d51cedba25542589ecf99ac71.jpeg


deflected by coupling. 

66DD4E8B-D83B-463E-9E70-CF80324585F2.jpeg.a0feb321bf8c58425927ccb68a88cf78.jpeg

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12 hours ago, brightspark said:

Does anyone have any ideas?

Open out the cut out so it is wider and then fit in some etched mesh to appear as a drain cover or something of the sort. Have it dented/curved toward its centre for the coupling part to clear. It will look as if it has been deformed by lorries driving over it.

 

Use 3-link couplings instead?

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