Lightweight 0 gauge portable exhibition layout

[Donw]

There has been a considerable change in my health this year. Back in Feb/Mar I had what the doctor described as an Arthritis flare up. I couldn’t put socks or shoes on or pull on or off t shirts or jumpers let alone do much work.

The position has improved somewhat but X rays have shown my shoulders are basically bu99ered. I cannot lift anything heavy.

work on my planed big layout will have to wait until firstly the shed can be completed and secondly whether we can continue to cope with a large garden. I think it unwise to continue with the smaller indoor layout and the portable layout is to heavy to manage despite my lightweight boards.

so facing a possible move I am planning a really lightweight portable layout. As I find driving vary far somewhat of a strain I wanted to be able to take by public transport if possible.

this thread will document how I get on. The next post will discus the ideas and planning.

I hope some of you may find this of interest.

Don

Edited May 2, 2023 by Donw
typos

[Happy Hippo]

Don,

 

I'm sorry to read about your change in health.  It's very hard when things you've managed to do quite easily in the past suddenly become either a struggle or nigh on impossible.

 

I'm in the process of scrapping my heavy weight portable railway in favour of something much lighter.

 

Having seen Gordon and Maggie Gravett's 'Arun Quay', with it's super lightweight boards, made me experiment with thin ply  sides and 2" thick Kingspan foam for the core producing a baseboard 5' x 18" that I can lift between my finger and my thumb.

 

Hope this helps and gives you some encouragement

[F-UnitMad]

48 minutes ago, Donw said:

I couldn’t...... pul on or off t shits

Sorry to hear of your health issues Don. But you might want to edit this bit of your post, which did make me laugh!!

I'm mildly surprised it got past the forum censor program, which wouldn't let somebody post the word "d0ng" recently....  

Edited August 18, 2021 by F-UnitMad
Testing forum word censor!! It won't post "d*ng" for me either!!!

[37Oban]

Hi Don,

 

I am in a similar situation.  After a stroke many years back I can only lift items, such as baseboards, with one hand.  My latest layout, which I'm currently building, is called St Mungo mk 3, comprises 2 2' x 2' boards made from 50mm insulation foam and 1" x1" L-shaped stripwood hinged together.  

 

I originally tried making the boards from card board.  I know others have been successful with it, and it is light and strong when sealed, but it just didn't work for me.  Foam is light, stable, strong and very easy to work.

 

 

 

Roja

[Donw]

10 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:

Sorry to hear of your health issues Don. But you might want to edit this bit of your post, which did make me laugh!!

I'm mildly surprised it got past the forum censor program, which wouldn't let somebody post the word "d0ng" recently....  

 

Glad you had a laugh Jordan. I made the post on my iPhone and can hardly what see what I have typed. Perhaps I should leave it in case I make it worse.

Don

[F-UnitMad]

I would second the recomendation to use Extruded Styrofoam. It's very lightweight but rigid. With thin ply strip around the edges for protection from knocks it would be ideal. Our U.S. brethren have used it for years. The only problem in the UK seems to be getting hold of it in small quantities, as the usual 'DIY Sheds' dont stock it.

[Mike Bellamy]

48 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said:

I would second the recommendation to use Extruded Styrofoam. . . . .  The only problem in the UK seems to be getting hold of it in small quantities, as the usual 'DIY Sheds' don't stock it.

 

Our club bought some from Panel Systems of Sheffield. One of our guys phoned and chatted to them about our requirements and was sent small samples of each type. We then bought a pack of 6 large sheets - some for the club layout and others for sale to members. However I believe from what I was told of the conversation that although their online shop appears to only have large pack sizes, they can accommodate smaller orders - no harm in asking.

 

Also note that they do not call it Styrofoam anymore - it's now Ravatherm following a change of manufacturer, and so you might find other suppliers using that name. It looks like their 'Craft Foam' version might be best for modellers ?

 

Click Here for Link to Panel Systems

.

 

 

[Donw]

Thaks to all for the advice on foam boards. I have my reservations.  Firstly having used for house insulation Recticele (IIRC) and Cellotex in various thicknesses from 25mm to 100mm I do not paricularly like the dust etc. from cutting. It also lacks strength in that excess pressure can fracture a board  which then has no strength at the fracture unlike timber which can deform under pressure considerably compared to foam before fracturing.

I also have concerns about running wires and fixing servos and the like using foam.specially if you decide to make any changes. However probably the bggest issue is that I wanted to keep the size of the layout when packed up as small as possible and thick foam is not ideal for that. If I want to take it by train the general allowance in the UK is one small item of handluggage and two larger items  max size 90x70x30 cm each. which is not a lotos space. However fitting a layout packed up into two packages that size would also make it easy to store at home and even if moved to a care home could probably be taken with you.

 

I had a 3m exhibition layout that I showed for a few years. It was great fun and included the fiddle yard. I am thinking I could have three boards 90cm long by 60cm wide for the scenic bit and perhaps allow the cassettes to overhang by 30 cm or so. So what will that need.

 

Support. I much prefer a free standing support.  So I envisage the following

Four pairs of legs  

legs 20mm square  with ply cross members   top and near bottom.

Two layout bearers 

Each approx 2.7 m x90cm x1cm  hinged to fold into three for transport

Half cutouts in the cross members and the bearers to slot together should hold the legs vertical.

 

Three baseboards  90cm x 60cm with track on an some surface detail ideally no more than 5cm thick

 

Backscenes

max size 90cm x  60cm  lightweight foamboard or thick shellacked card low relief buildings up 5 cm deep sky either using the back of the boards or a sky colour cloth .

 

two end boards 

 

Lighting rigs supports also help support backscenes. Probably Aluminium L shapes

Led strip lighting front and rear

 

At least 4 cassettes again lightweight 90cm long so 4 or 6 wheel coaches  wo or three  with a small loco  5 or wagons with a small loco

 

More to follow

 

Don 

 

 

 

 

[F-UnitMad]

9 hours ago, Donw said:

Recticele (IIRC) and Cellotex

I have a feeling those are similar to the silver-foil backed insulation such as 'Kingspan' which the DIY sheds do sell. That is a far inferior product to proper extruded foam.

[37Oban]

Hi,

 

be careful not to over think this.   In my experience some so-called lightweight plywood boards can be almost as heavy as a more traditional board, depending on the thickness of the plywood and method of construction.  

 

Extruded foam, not expanded, is a must, and if your worried about its strength, even 25mm thick foam can be very strong if a sheet of 3mm ply is used to skin the lower surface and sides without adding too much weight.  This can also be used to help support point motors, but on St Mungo's I use wire in tube, with the tubes hidden in grooves in the foam then covered with picture framing tape.  My wiring is all on the surface too, and will be be hidden by scenic work.  I didn't find cutting the foam to be an issue.  I mainly used a very sharp, plain blade, not serrated, kitchen knife.  If I did have to use a saw I wore a mask.

 

What I will also say 2 things, although I feel I maybe teaching my grandma how to chew cheese!  Firstly, plan and plan again until you are happy with the result!  Even then, be prepared to make minor alterations when you start to lay track.  I made a couple of alterations to St Mungo's as I laid the track as I realised that, although it looked good on paper; even after more than a dozen iterations, it didn't work "in the flesh".  I found this out by pushing items of stock around before doing any wiring.

 

Secondly, when wiring, test, test and test again, then play trains for a good while before commencing any scenic work.  Much easier to fix faults at this stage than when scenic work has been commenced, or even completed.  This applies to whatever type of baseboard you end up using.  It has been my experience that the most, if not all the problems I've had have been dry joints, especially when attaching a wire to the rail, and this can happen no matter what type of baseboard you use or wiring regime.

 

At the end of the day (who came up with that expression!?)  it all comes down to personal choice and what you're happy working with.  I've used traditional 2" x 1" with ply top, all ply, card and have now settled on foam for St Mungo's and future projects as it suits my needs and situation.

 

Whichever way you go, I shall follow your progress with interest.

 

Roja

[Donw]

I have looked at the Panel Systems website the craftfoam does look a rather different animal. I think it would cost me about £70 or more to get three pieces of 900x600 for the baseboards. I would want to try it first of all. My usual baseboards have been 5mm ply with 32x14 timber round the edges and two diagonals and then usually a piece of 3mm ply for the backscene. I was thinking of using 3mm ply with either 24x10 timbers or using 6mm ply for the sides and the diagonals with a few strengthening blocks or some pieces of polystyrene glued to the underside as stiffening. Maybe I will have a try first with some bits in hand.

 

Track will be handbuit. I could use card sleepers in the yard areas  and ply on the main track in.

 

Don 

[Donw]

I decided to start with the support first so have cut some legs and sorted some ply for the bearers. I will ake some pictures later. Progress will  not be quick as it is hedge cutting time.

 

Don

[marc smith]

Hi Donw,

Firstly, I just wanted to say that I'm sorry to read of your health issues. I sincerely hope things improve on that front.

Secondly, I used extruded foam board for several exhibition layouts, over quite a number of years. Initially, this wasn't particularly for any back / shoulder / arm joints, or any other health concerns - but I found myself exhibiting on my own many times (there were several occasions where good pals helped me exhibit, but more often than not, I had to set up on my own). It's not just the lifting in & out of cars, it's the carrying through sprung doors and up & down stairs.

I'd built my small OO depot "Hendre Lane" using more traditional materials & methods, but that still weighed more than I expected. So I experimented with extruded foam board. I found that it was sturdier than I had anticipated, especially when using small lightweight battens underneath, and strengthened with hardboard or thin MDF edging.

Yes, the foam board can make a bit of a mess - but not like expanded polystyrene does. I wore a mask when cutting it... just in case, and I've suffered no ill-effects.
It certainly results in lightweight finished boards. My small O gauge layout "Poynton sneer" was just a shade under 5 feet by around 14" deep, and I could easily lift it with just one hand. "Hendre Lane" was 3'6" x around 14 or 15 inches, and it weighed probably 3 times as much, if not four! Poynton Sneer was made from a 4' piece of foam board, with another 10 or 11" tacked on to the end - but with battens & hardboard edging (and plenty of PVA) it was a really strong joint - you would never have known if you didn't look underneath.

As the years advance, I know I'm going to use the foam board again - I can't see myself lifting the old Ply construction boards I used to build.
My layouts have done quite a few shows, and each has survived several house moves, exhibitions, and being stored in various lofts & garages - and all are still going strong. I'd recommend building a small diorama (perhaps a halt?) or "scenic photo plank" to experiment with the material.

Whatever you decide - I'll be watching with interest, as I'm always intrigued by small space designs, especially in O. So best of luck with it, and of course with your health

[Donw]

Thanks for you comments Marc

 

I know from experience how what starts out as a fairly light ply baseboard soon gets heavier with a backscene, the platforms any filler used even cast whitemetal figures and vehicles all add to the weight. The problem is I am also trying to keep it as small as possible and if the foam has to be reasonably thick that would also cause a problem. I have almost finished the support system and will take some pictures  when done.

 

Don

[Northroader]

Sorry, Don, only just spotted the link in your signature, and very sorry to hear of the change in your circumstances, particularly when you worked so hard getting your house and garden into shape. Hope you have every success with the lighter boards, it seems a lot of layouts are being done that way these days. Best wishes for the New Year, and with your new line.  

Bob.

[Donw]

Thanks you for your kind words. We decided we needed to clear up as there was a lot of old materials that might have been used for a garden line. This will probably now be simpler so the old stuff went only 3 skips loads i.e 18 cubic yards of soil, concrete and bricks. We also also laid slabs in front of the shed and been trying to get everything shipshape. We may then consider whether this place is too big for us to manage for long.

 

Don

[ChrisN]

Don,

Sorry, only just realised you had a new thread.  Also sorry to hear of your changed circumstances.  My patients often used to say to me, 'Don't get old, it is not worth it.'  I am doing my best to take their advice!  I hope the new layout goes well and is what you want it to be.  I hope you get some clarity about the house soon as well.

 

All the best, I shall folow this with interest.

[Donw]

Due to the health problems mentioned above we are in the process of moving hence little progress. However I did put together some boards from material to hand which could otherwise have ended up in the recycling depot.

 

Here are some photos of the middle section

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The baseboard itself is about 3.5mm  ply with 20x12 edge timbers and 20mm square diagonals giving a board about 90x57x2.5 cm  light enough for my purpose.

 

The base comprises of pairs of legs 20mm square with 5mm ply cross members a slot is cut in the cross member adjacent to each leg. These take a similar slot in the side members of 5mm ply. These are approx 150mm deep once slotted together the base becomes fairly rigid but I fixed the bottom of each side member to the legs with a screw. The makes it pretty rigid. I may replace the screws with a peg or a bolt.

The base sit on the top I will probably arrange some location nibs to keep them on the base. The other two boards will be fiited one each side with a pair of legs for each board and the side members slotted in a similar manner.

 

I stopped at that stage as the bare boards are better for storage. The plan is to be able to set this up in the indoor modelling room and be able to take this to an exhibition. 

 

Don 

[Donw]

Firstly wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and a much better new year than the last one!

 

We finally moved in at the end of September to find there was a lot more to do than expected . Worst was a long time leak under the shower so we had to rip out the shower completely which revealed there was a false wall behind the shower  and toilet into which the leak had penetrated, so that had to come out.  After that the kitchen needs to be redone including removing a brick wall part of an old pantry. 

 

Railway wise space has been allocated for the garden railway. I have replaced the garage roof as the joists were rotten and the indoor den is full of buildings materials as well all the train stuff plastic tubs and boxes. 

The Den has an alcove which will provide a workdesk area and some modest space for a layout  either 10ft along one wall or a 10ftx9ft L shape with the 9ft branch crossing a window. The 10ft would be suited to the portable layout but would  have to incorporate the cassette or fiddleyard.  If instead I went for the L shape with the cassettes along the window side and perhaps part of the corner board removeable that would give a longer run an an extra coach or wagons on a train. but would be right for exhibiting, looking from inside an L is not an easy shape to fit in an exhibition.   

Now on the Island there was one big show and and one smaller one last time we were here. The portable layout is intended to be small enough to take on a train or the fast cat, but I am asking myself how likely am I to be going off as overnight stays are not practical for personal reasons . 

Thoughts and comments would be most welcome.

 

Don

 

 

[Sasquatch]

Apologies for loosing you on here Don. Since the site went down and after my old computer croaked I kind of lost all the threads that I followed.

Anyway, it's good to see that your enthusiasm hasn't waned in the slightest following last year's ailments. 

 

Just one thought on the L design. It would be twice as much to move and assemble for a show and you would probably need a corner spot. However, with careful planning and use of an     off-scene Y point, the fiddly yard could well be reversed for shows. When I built Goathland, the whole scenic part was rotated 180 degrees when I took it to two local exhibitions!     

 

Ooh. another thought. You could employ the Y idea and have a shorter "show only" traverser. The home leg of the L would then be freed up for both a long run and fiddle yard, maybe even hidden behind an industrial branch.

 

Regards Shaun.

[Donw]

Thanks Shaun.  Yes there does seem to be some possibilities there. If I have a 1m cassette I could replace that with a lift out curved bit onto an extra board leading to longer cassettes. For exhibition use I could use the longer cassettes without the curve. The portable layout could be left set up with a short cassette ready for use at any time and then I could add the extra board for an operating session. Should I have the opportunity to exhibit I can take it off to the show. It really depends on getting sufficient room to fit in the run round loop to take a reasonable train. A small tank engine an three six wheelers would be easy but a 4-4-0 and two bogies would probably be the limit.

 

Don

[Donw]

I have been pondering the above and have come to the conclusion I would need to accept a 3ft or possibly a 3ft 6in curve on the home version which might exclude some of my bigger locos.  I think the first turnout and the home signal would be on that curve or be replaced by the cassettes for show use. I think a couple of sketches are needed.

 

Don

[Donw]

I have drawn a sketch showing the two different ways for the layout either with cassettes connected straight on or with a curve to the cassettes

 

 

 

[Donw]

There still seems to be so much to do. Outdoors we are busy doing the preparation for laying 75sq m of sandstone paving. The Kitchen is on the home straight now. Bedroom to sort out next. 

Because there is so  much stuff the portable base is not high enough so I have set a couple of boards up on a simple frame about 4ft high. Which has effectively become a higher shelf. However two tall wall cupboards replaced in the kitchen have been fitted over the workdesk or what will be the workdesk  When that is cleared.  I will have to lower the baseboards as although the end of the cassettes will fit under the cupboards there wouldn't be room to lift one over another.

I am itching to get on with track laying. I do need to find which box contains the servos. I have written the code to make an Arduino (a small microprocessor ) work as a DCC decoder/servo driver and need to test that. The idea is that with an Arduino on each board to drive signals and turnouts there will need to be no wiring between boards other than the DCC bus. Not that wiring would be an issue for an ex telephone engineer but on portable layouts interboard connections can cause trouble. 

 

Don

[Donw]

I have done some laying of sleepers. Most of the middle board is now ready for rails but so much to be done with 200ft of 10ft high hedge added to the mix.  The picture shows the first bit being laid.

 

 

Don