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27 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said:

I suggest for the future look for a very thin one with a fine brush applicator, I can't get MEK in the US so now use Tamiya Ultra Thin.  It's almost as good as MEK, not quite as thin, but works well with capillary action.

Ensure you have good ventilation though!

If plumbers in the USA fit plastic (PVC, PVC-C or ABS) pipework as they do over here, the stuff they use to clean the surfaces before gluing them together may well be MEK, though the last lot I bought is just described as "cleaner". The previous one was labelled "Ethyl-Methyl Ketone" just to confuse things further, though they all smell and work the same. In metric Europe, it comes in half litre cans.

 

John

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I can buy a gallon of MEK substitute from Lowes.  But this is too much and may not work as well.  I did inherit an almost empty quart can a while ago but it seems to be restricted now.  Another thread talked about current MEK available in the UK not being as good as it used to be.  For my occasional styrene modelling I'm happy with the Tamiya Ultra Thin.....

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14 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said:

I can buy a gallon of MEK substitute from Lowes.  But this is too much and may not work as well.  I did inherit an almost empty quart can a while ago but it seems to be restricted now.  Another thread talked about current MEK available in the UK not being as good as it used to be.  For my occasional styrene modelling I'm happy with the Tamiya Ultra Thin.....

Recent stuff from the plumbers' merchants does seem to be less aggressive, and is certainly less volatile than in the past, taking longer to evaporate. It still works, but the bond is not so instant as previously expected.

 

It's possible that the formulation may have been tweaked to extend the working time when used for its intended purpose, and the reason it is no longer labelled as MEK may be that, strictly speaking, it isn't.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I have been using De Luxe Plastic Magic as an additional adhesive. It has a slower grab time but seems a good strong cement - it worked well with a GBL plastic static locomotive I was converting where other adhesives couldn't make a strong bond.

 

Edited by Ben Alder
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Another afternoon of working on the Toad. I've added the steps and the buffers and and I'm waiting for them to secure. 

 

After this, I'll be adding on the coupling hooks and sorting out the tension lock couplings. 

 

 

IMG_20210928_161217_450.jpg.2a15e115a26043f1bfd738431730c2a0.jpg

 

IMG_20210928_164926_503.jpg

 

IMG_20210928_164930_740.jpg

Edited by 6990WitherslackHall
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The Toad now has the coupling hooks and the tension lock couplings on.

I've decided to leave the actual couplings off as they're plastic and because that I tend to use a magnet for uncoupling wagons. 

 

I just need to sort out the roof. I think I might spray paint it so it'll look better. I'll leave the roof off for now until I finish the guard that is going to go inside the brake van. 

 

After that, the handrails need painting, the transfers need putting on and the headlamps need to be painted and glued on. 

 

IMG_20210928_173558_908.jpg.5b06d9b49ee954ea2fb40c421d9ed4a0.jpg

 

 

IMG_20210928_173726_4CS.jpg.b417b64a7e7f187afa73df12eb8cf899.jpg

Edited by 6990WitherslackHall
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Although Ratio's Toad is a little generic, it is immediately recognisable as a GWR Guard's Van as you've found and, if you are feeling adventurous once you've finished this build, the unmade kits can be sliced up to create other patterns of GWR Toad. The much shorter 13 ton AA7 is a good example of a relatively straightforward conversion. 

 

Tony

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