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Deeley 0-6-4 flatiron tank


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The 40 Deeley 0-6-4 tanks or Flatirons were all built in Derby in 1907 numbered 2000 to 2039, they were all originally built Saturated but by 1927 had been converted to superheated and by 1938 had all been scrapped.

 

The etch caters for both saturated and superheated versions, this one will be in the original guise. 

 

1168736265_deeleyflatironboth.jpg.5a6db7c8dcfd41884f8c5bcdce995b97.jpg

 

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As usual chassis is up first.

 

Dave

 

 

 

Edited by k22009
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8 minutes ago, Blandford1969 said:

such a rare beast.

 

Not on Midland lines in the Birmingham area from 1907/8 until displaced by the LMS Standard 4P 2-6-4Ts twenty years later. Just the thing for those Ratio suburbans, which represent exactly the diagrams built around the same time for the Birmingham area services:

 

mrknpreg243.jpg

 

[W.L. Good c. 1921; embedded link to Warwickshire Railways mrknpreg343.jpg.]

Edited by Compound2632
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1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

  

 

Not on Midland lines in the Birmingham area from 1907/8 until displaced by the LMS Standard 4P 2-6-4Ts twenty years later. Just the thing for those Ratio suburbans, which represent exactly the diagrams built around the same time for the Birmingham area services:

 

mrknpreg243.jpg

 

[W.L. Good c. 1921; embedded link to Warwickshire Railways mrknpreg343.jpg.]

I think they were also used in Manchester on the South District line.

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16 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said:

I think they were also used in Manchester on the South District line.

 

Yes, and with sets of the Ratio suburbans too - all except the 4-compartment brakes. According to Summerson, 2000-11 went new to Manchester for the South District line, 2013-15 / 23 / 24 / 27 / 28 / 32-39 to Saltley, with some of those at the Bournville and Walsall sub-sheds, the remainder in the east Midlands.

 

 

Edited by Compound2632
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1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

It does seem to have been a popular subject 50 years ago or more, perhaps because of the simple outline and space to house a large motor!

Yes indeed - the original Wills kit was designed to use the Triang 0-6-0 chassis, of course.

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2 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

and space to house a large motor!

 

It's a fairly cavernous space above the footplate, plenty of room for a big motor if required, plenty of space for weight, decoders, and speakers if that's what's required. It should be possible to have pickups on top of the footplate too for certainly the front 2 pairs of drivers which should keep the underside a bit tidier.

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Cut out and laid all of the chassis components out, i've included compensation beams with the etch so i'll fit these rather than hornblocks so i've opened out the axle holes to the front 2 driver positions to allow a little movement for the bearings when they are in the beams. 

 

20210729_124916.jpg.bd9a3c542818a935f88329fcdf4668d6.jpg

 

The tube which slides over the pivot has been split into 2 equal parts, so that the beams will move independently. A rod identical to the pivot has been dipped into brass black, i'll use this to enable me to solder the pivot tubes to the beams themselves. Once they are soldered together i'll then remove the rod add brass black to the pivot tubes only so that when i solder the actual pivot rod between the frames it won't solder everything up tight.

 

20210729_163151.jpg.8127bd515d2e1d9793ee60abf7f11049.jpg

 

Below is a shot showing the beams on the outside next to the frames, you can see in the photo above there is plenty of room for movement of the bearings in the frame axle holes.

 

20210729_163202.jpg.8ee3213cd43c12fc5d8ccfa1eb5ee7e2.jpg

 

Dave

 

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I've folded up the sandboxes and and fitted these to the frame sides, the solder fills the recess on the sloping edge

 

20210729_175231.jpg.34ac3222aad389f4987a6dad39bd10e8.jpg

 

After this i decided to make up the basic footplate assembly so that i could check the chassis fit for length and the locating screw positions. The valences always need care in fitting and i find it's something to take plenty of time over getting the positioning correct. They are set in from the edge just about 0.5mm. Once they were on the buffer beams are added to make a good solid platform for the rest of the model.

 

20210729_161018.jpg.506b9f0a16173567ddced600c70da144.jpg

 

And with the chassis underneath all fits and lines up perfectly to my relief. But to be honest that's the beauty of CAD as long as you pull the items from the assembly drawing you work too then it's more difficult to go wrong. 

 

20210730_161114.jpg.0d95f4f19174ddf48b35e5c3d88818da.jpg

 

I set aside the footplate and made up the coupling rods sweating the 2 sides together, after a very slight ream of the holes to remove the excess solder i checked the fit using axle alignment jigs.

 

20210730_170711.jpg.a0ac998200ee3dba36aa64d9f14b1f80.jpg

 

Then finally the last job before i can paint the chassis adding the sand pipes and supports. The brake hanger rods i've added too but i'll add the actual brake hangers and blocks after it's painted and the wheels are on as i only want to fit them once. 

 

20210730_171144.jpg.dafa40fb7bf24ce4642423e7f8fbe6ed.jpg

 

I'll give the chassis a good clean now before priming and top coat. While i wait for less damp conditions i'll get the bodywork prepared next.

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With the tank sides removed, i formed each end of the tank cut out around a 12 diameter bar and fitted so they were flush with the outside.

 

The cab floor and cab splashers were also folded to there required shape, window frames added to both cab front and rear which also needed folding to shape. I'm building the original saturated version so the cab front has circular openings rather than the more usual Derby Midland style 4 oblong windows that the superheated version had.

 

20210731_170304.jpg.e3eee878998f37972ef8b4157d70aecd.jpg

 

The recesses in the sides are for the tank tops and the bunker bottom/rear tank top.

 

20210731_170333.jpg.2241cc6f3b1a2b510457d11be6fc5ec5.jpg

 

And with all of the cab parts fitted to the footplate.

 

20210731_173921.jpg.c97b4f39f0591c06f4afd286c1c5974a.jpg

 

 

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More work on the flat irons distinctive cut outs, this time splashers, reversing rod support and what must be the upper frames. 

 

The portion of splasher that is visible is quite small, the tops however do roll easily enough with an exacto knife handle bearing down onto the cutting mat. It's a hot finger job when it comes to soldering them to the splasher fronts. 

 

20210731_175623.jpg.e7ca920c5817522e7b280feed213add4.jpg

 

20210801_105924.jpg.740385aaf25b3c1259736a40403bf4ff.jpg

 

Then comes the tricky part in getting them located under the cut out but flush with what would be the footplate, that spare pair of hands would have come in handy.

 

20210801_111046.jpg.4450184c8fc6a57e1645198f080bcbc8.jpg

 

Once these were all in position, the reversing lever support and upper frames fit between them, again it's a bit tricky to keep it all flat underneath. Once done however the cab was formed at the top edges to follow the front/rear profile, The front tank top beadings and those around the cab opening were also added while access was easy, then both sides were fitted to the footplate and cab front and rear. I've left a little cab beading overhanging i'll trim that back once the handrails are fitted.

 

20210802_123749.jpg.63a269ac5367bc693be526d13edf653e.jpg

 

20210802_123805.jpg.9aa0ba8252b0ea6ae6cecf752c5768bd.jpg

 

Tank tops and then the boiler assembly next. 

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I've made up both boiler assemblies, just to make sure both were ok. 

 

They were both made up using the guide holes i added to each of the formers so they would locate accurately, the boiler smokebox and firebox (on the superheated version) are all half etched so they form quite easily. The saturated version smokebox front includes the tank fronts also in one piece, whereas the superheated version the smokebox was enlarged to fit the superheater header and consequently protrudes forward of the tank fronts.

 

20210803_174720.jpg.f9e81b19cb5450746c7b8b0c307b60de.jpg

 

This is the saturated version, the 3 small holes are for the tank top stays which will hope fully line up with stays fitted onto the tank tops. I used additional larger diameter formers to make the step between boiler and smokebox.

 

 20210803_174753.jpg.440f0456894b9040617c48f9dd69547d.jpg

 

The superheated version has the belpaire firebox, several thicknesses of former at the front allow the edge to be filed to shape.

 

20210803_111204.jpg.ac5dbad87e37462e273bbb7863d81763.jpg

 

The superheated version fits onto a different cab front, a more typical Derby style one.

 

20210803_143123.jpg.1acadd63c7acff4fcfed2eb6c3fdf901.jpg

 

20210803_143137.jpg.01864a0366a44f1e2b7bfbdc2993836e.jpg

 

The side windows have been revised on the etch so they are now semi circular at the top and bottom.

 

I'll add the tank tops next so that the boiler assembly can be trial fitted.

 

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On 09/10/2021 at 17:07, k22009 said:

More work on the flat irons distinctive cut outs, this time splashers, reversing rod support and what must be the upper frames. 

 

The portion of splasher that is visible is quite small, the tops however do roll easily enough with an exacto knife handle bearing down onto the cutting mat. It's a hot finger job when it comes to soldering them to the splasher fronts. 

 

Just wondering if it would be easier to follow the prototype and make the splashers in full, with cut-outs in the piece that goes on the underside of the tank? 

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4 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Just wondering if it would be easier to follow the prototype and make the splashers in full, with cut-outs in the piece that goes on the underside of the tank? 

 

That's something i'd not thought of, it would be possible, it would take some of the open area at the front of the tanks and behind the center driver away from lead filling though. Although there will probably be plenty of room elsewhere. I'll have a play on Cad with it.

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Before you go any further I'm a little worried that the top of the firebox is too high compared to the boiler. Photo's show them almost at the same level, with no real 'step' between the two.

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6 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Before you go any further I'm a little worried that the top of the firebox is too high compared to the boiler. Photo's show them almost at the same level, with no real 'step' between the two.

 

Thanks yes you're right, i've just looked and noticed that i put the wrong former onto the boiler end. Doh.

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As somebody who is new to kit building, thank you for the step by step approach, its fascinating and informative.  I am an interested to see more how the rocker beams work with the wheel sets when you get down to that point.

 

I am assuming this is an etch you have put together for yourself - or do you do kits to sell?.

 

Rich

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25 minutes ago, k22009 said:

 

Thanks yes you're right, i've just looked and noticed that i put the wrong former onto the boiler end. Doh.

 

Corrected former, i'd never have noticed it unless it had been pointed out as i'm using the saturated version.

 

20210801_164455.jpg.de32dde61e462f91569af7659d58935a.jpg

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27 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

As somebody who is new to kit building, thank you for the step by step approach, its fascinating and informative.  I am an interested to see more how the rocker beams work with the wheel sets when you get down to that point.

 

I am assuming this is an etch you have put together for yourself - or do you do kits to sell?.

 

Rich

 

Thanks Rich, the rocker or compensation beams should move up and down if there are any irregularities with the track so in theory giving better adhesion and also probably more importantly better electrical pickup.

 

The etch is primarily done for myself but as with a few of the last locos i've built i've offered them to anyone that's interested once i've ironed out as many of the problems that i can.

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I've added the steps, lamp iron and water capacity plate before i fitted the bunker rear, the beading and sloping rear tank top has also been fitted.

 

20210802_163605.jpg.ef1785cdec4fdd91d66b980e0f3d15b3.jpg

 

Tank tops have had the filler and ties added these fit into half etched grooves on the inside of the tank sides.

 

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20210802_130551.jpg.935b71ba540bab615d0cafdf061bca01.jpg

 

All fitted, i've left the front of the beading slightly raised for now so that  i can get the boiler assembly into position, the front has locating tabs. I took the opportunity to add the tank handrails while the access is easy. I'll add lead sheet to the inside of the tanks front and rear before i position the boiler assembly for good.

 

20210802_163620.jpg.dac55f85846ac67ec8dab230d4414cbd.jpg

 

 

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