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Deeley 0-6-4 flatiron tank


k22009
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A couple of shots when i trial fitted the boiler assembly. Lead added in the side tanks  and a little in the bunker so it feels far more substantial now.

 

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It fit's, Hallelujah, now onto adding the detailing parts, steps, lamp irons, castings, pipework etc and finishing the chassis off.

Edited by k22009
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I have a soft spot for this loco.  I spent a fair bit of coin buying a model that had allegedly been professionally built.  After I got it I discovered it was rubbish.  I set out to make a decent model of it and got well advanced.  Then I had my road to Damascus moment with 0 gauge and that was that.

 

Here's where I got to FWIW:

 

P1010004-005.JPG.7949e9b122eb7a51cdeefc81be8320ba.JPG

 

The idea was to super detail the body.  Chassis was scratch built.  Bogie was cobbled up from a Comet kit.  Someone actually bought it, no idea if that person made anything out of it.  Wish I'd had your etches then, so much better.

 

Anyway, I've been watching the build and really like how it is coming together.

 

John

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16 hours ago, brossard said:

I have a soft spot for this loco.  I spent a fair bit of coin buying a model that had allegedly been professionally built.  After I got it I discovered it was rubbish.  I set out to make a decent model of it and got well advanced.  Then I had my road to Damascus moment with 0 gauge and that was that.

 

Here's where I got to FWIW:

 

P1010004-005.JPG.7949e9b122eb7a51cdeefc81be8320ba.JPG

 

The idea was to super detail the body.  Chassis was scratch built.  Bogie was cobbled up from a Comet kit.  Someone actually bought it, no idea if that person made anything out of it.  Wish I'd had your etches then, so much better.

 

Anyway, I've been watching the build and really like how it is coming together.

 

John

 

It was coming together nicely too, there is something quite satisfying about the trials of making a silk purse from a sow's ear, the Midland cab front would have been fun to make though. 

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Thanks Dave, I have done several projects of vans and coaches making them into what I think were silk purses.  I wasn't looking forward to the cab.

 

Ah well, we move on.  Even failed or incomplete projects add to our experience base.

 

John

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The chassis has been finished it's powered by a 1428 Mashima along with a 45:1 High Level Roadrunner plus gearbox driving the rear axle so should be plenty of power. Most of the detailing is now completed (whistle to add though), so next stop will be the sink and a good clean.

 

A few photos attached with the roof placed in position. I'm pleased with how it looks and as Stephen said earlier in the thread it will look nice with a rake of Ratio suburbans so i guess that's something else for the future to do list. I'd better get down to Halfords to see if i can find a replacement for Rover Damask Red (i think maybe Ford Burgundy red) if not i'll maybe get some made up from a Motor Factors. 

 

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20210909_125329.jpg.d0c13519e946aeb590e90c59f1eb477d.jpg

 

If anyone is interested in an etch, message me please if you do rather than adding onto the thread, the artwork will need a revision as there were a couple of things that need altering. I'll include as many resin castings as i can (they are not perfect by any means the dome could do with being slightly taller), along with round top and belpaire back heads for the superheated version and the usual drawings, instructions, parts lists, parts drawing etc.

 

Cheers 

Edited by k22009
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Nice build. Shows how crisp an etched kit is compared to w/m castings.

 

My understanding of three axle compensation, with one axle's bearings rigidly "fixed" in the frames, the other two axles need to be supported by a single, central, beam to achieve the desired "three point" suspension. Will you be altering the etch to reflect that or keep as is?

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Hi Jol,

 

Thanks, firstly, I hope your retina problem is improving, i've missed your contribution on your workbench.

 

The pivot position between the front 2 axles allows you to use horn blocks/guides with a pivoting tube on a fixed rod soldered to the frames with an equalising rod/beam resting on the mid point of the 2 axles. As i've chosen on my model to drive the rear axle so splitting the bogie and drivers i've not been able to go for full blown flexichas compensation with a link beam and equalising beam pivoted between the rear axle and the bogie, the twin beams i have used uses the same pivot point. So i'm not sure what i can alter really and if there's not much interest the drawings will be heading to the depths of the hard drive anyway. 

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If its any help I found the Halfords Burgundy red to be a bit redder than the vauxhall burgandy red I sprayed my rake of GCS with. To my eye ( though thats not really all that accurate ) the Ford burgundy red is a bit too purply for Midland red. However I do know that the undercoat colour influences it, so might look right. 

 

Mind you I'm not the best at painting, and we all see colour a bit differently. 

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Sorry first message on you topic but have been following. That’s a lovely build very tempting indeed, I did complete a old white metal one which isn’t bad as a layout model but definitely doesn’t have the crispness on the detail like what your creating. I never finished mine as the gearbox never meshed properly, and was put in a box where it still is. 

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9 hours ago, Dave John said:

If its any help I found the Halfords Burgundy red to be a bit redder than the vauxhall burgandy red I sprayed my rake of GCS with. To my eye ( though thats not really all that accurate ) the Ford burgundy red is a bit too purply for Midland red. However I do know that the undercoat colour influences it, so might look right. 

 

Mind you I'm not the best at painting, and we all see colour a bit differently. 

 

Thanks i'll probably try a couple if they look close and as you say the primer coat does make a difference so i'll try both red and grey see how they look on a test piece.

 

8 hours ago, farren said:

Sorry first message on you topic but have been following. That’s a lovely build very tempting indeed, I did complete a old white metal one which isn’t bad as a layout model but definitely doesn’t have the crispness on the detail like what your creating. I never finished mine as the gearbox never meshed properly, and was put in a box where it still is. 

 

Time to get that old kit out and get a nice High Level gearbox in it, it'll soon be thundering around the layout.

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12 hours ago, k22009 said:

Hi Jol,

 

Thanks, firstly, I hope your retina problem is improving, i've missed your contribution on your workbench.

 

The pivot position between the front 2 axles allows you to use horn blocks/guides with a pivoting tube on a fixed rod soldered to the frames with an equalising rod/beam resting on the mid point of the 2 axles. As i've chosen on my model to drive the rear axle so splitting the bogie and drivers i've not been able to go for full blown flexichas compensation with a link beam and equalising beam pivoted between the rear axle and the bogie, the twin beams i have used uses the same pivot point. So i'm not sure what i can alter really and if there's not much interest the drawings will be heading to the depths of the hard drive anyway. 

 

Thanks, I am slowly getting back to working on London Road and have built three new baseboards so far. The sight in my right eye is permanently damaged so the next test will be see how I get on with kit and track building.

 

Without the opportunity for the third axle to pivot the two axles on side beams will have little movement, basically just the clearances in the various bearings and pivots. I've noted that approach used on a number of 7mm locos but have always felt it doesn't provide enough flexibility. For OO and EM most people would probably be happy with a rigid chassis.

 

Jol

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