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6x4ft DC to DCC Upgrade


Jonseyt23
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Hello All

 

I am in need of some help. I currently have the Hornby R8217 Trackmat layout painted onto an 8x6 baseboard and I am looking at upgrading to DCC (I have the Hornby Select controller awaiting delivery) but do I need to do anything special to my existing layout (well son's layout) to facilitate DCC running.

 

I have the DC power currently coming in on the top left outer bend using a Hornby Power clip with a connection to the inner track using 2 Hornby R8206 power straights back to back, isolating fishplates on the points that join both ovals.

 

Do I have to add any extra power link wires or even remove things I have currently installed on the track to be able to run DCC. I have read about Bus wiring and droppers to every piece of track. Is this necessary on this size of layout? Also if I do have to add Bus wiring/Droppers do the bus wire need to be a complete ring or broken on both the inner & outer rings?

trakmat-lrg-landscape.jpg

Edited by Jonseyt23
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  • RMweb Gold

Layout will work as currently wired . Suggest you connect up and see how good the running is … and add extra feed droppers if required to improve running. 
 

Alternative goes something like this…but bear in mind this is one of 20 boards making up a portable exhibition layout on which reliability is key

 

FA7388F8-5968-4BA7-93FE-9C79A5903662.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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You MUST either replace the R602 Hornby power clips and Power track sections R8206 everywhere for DCC versions -  R8242 and R8241.  Or simply use a small flat blade screwdriver and flip open the cover on each existing clip or track section and cut out the small capacitor fitted inside (there is nothing else in there other than connections). Discard the capacitor and close up the cover. The altered R602 power clip or R8206 are now suitable to use on DCC.  

 

Adding a DCC power Bus pair feed by the console is the best way to ensure 100% power and data transfer around the layout. Then add smaller wire sizes dropper wires soldered to the rails above, ensuring correct polarity is maintained everywhere.

TBH on a small sized layout adding droppers to every track section may be OTT?   Personally, if going with a  Bus pair and droppers, I would add droppers to every third or fourth section of track and rely on the metal rail joiners for transfer to non dropper fitted rails.  If you get a power/data problem in a section then you can always add more droppers as needed.   

 

But for starters just use the power clips/track sections as now, but ensure these power clips/track sections have the internal capacitor removed.  Add Hornby R8232 DCC point clips (2 per point) to each point to overcome the points self isolating feature. If the track is as per the plan above then you have 6 point and would need 12 clips.  Personally I really dislike these point clips (staples) but for a starter they are probably OK. You can't beat hard wired connections though. ;) 

 

Oh to add... Ensure all locos are fitted with a Decoder.   Do not let non decoder fitted locos sit on DCC powered rails. The locos motor will burn out if left on DCC powered rails.   Equally avoid using the Hornby address of 0 (zero) to run a DC loco.  It is not recommended, even Hornby do not recommend this!

Edited by Brian
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Thanks to everyone for the replies. I will remove the capacitors, I have just ordered a pack of the point clips so will get them installed once they arrive, I still need 1 RH point to finish off the far right siding anyway. I will see how it goes in regards to running on the as is power connections if I do get stalling/jerky movement, would it be 2 seperate bus wires, onefor inner and 1 for outer & would they need to be complete ovals or do I put a break in them and work it so the controller is in the middle of each wire length? 

 

I do need to order 2 decoders to convert current locos the lad has. A little Hornby 0-4-0 and the original Hornby HST. 

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  • RMweb Gold

As mentioned by Brian above, if you don’t modify the points in someway so that there is always power to the various sidings, you risk not maximising the benefit of switching to DCC, as locos will not be sitting on live track all the time. This is particularly true if you envisage  running locos with sound and/or light, as you’ll lose the facility to have them idling in a siding. Either use the clips as suggested, or put extra feeds so that sidings are always live.

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Hi

Just one pair of Bus wires feed all tracks. Dropper wires feed off the bus pair to the rails above. But do use two different wire colours for the bus pair - e.g. Red and Black and in a smaller wire size for the droppers - Red and Black (or whatever insulation colours you choose!)   Ensure all red connect everywhere to outer rails and all black to inner rails etc.

 

Ideally solder the dropper wires to the bus wires and to the rails too.  However there are alternatives to soldering to the bus pair.  You could use Scotchlock (suitcase) connectors of the correct size.  Cut up terminal blocks Or even Wago style connectors are a few suggestions.

Edited by Brian
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  • RMweb Gold

Comments re removal of suppression for Dcc are spot on …. Remove from locos too when you fit chips. 

 

One pair of bus wires can feed as many tracks as you like …. 24 on my layout using Express Models solderless bus system which uses splice blade connectors…. Only soldering for me is dropper wires to track. 
 

Sounds like your locos may not be Dcc ready and will need hard wired chips if not. 

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Yeah the locos will be hardwired, I found 2 youtube videos on how to install them in the exact same locos that I have and it dosn't look to hard, the hard bit will be working out how to sort out the directional lighting in the HST. 

Edited by Jonseyt23
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