Straightening a Dapol coal wagon

[47137]

I have just received a Dapol wagon for 0 gauge, bought by mail order. The sides of the body are curving inwards, not by much but just enough to look really awkward. The curvature is about 0.5 mm each side.

 

I am wondering, suppose I push the sides outwards and flat with some pieces of wood jammed into the model and dunk the body of the model into some very hot water, would this straighten things up? And importantly, would the factory weathering and factory finish survive?

 

I know I could send the model back for exchange or refund, and maybe this is what I ought to do, but it would be more satisfying to fix it if I can.

 

- Richard.

 

[Michael Hodgson]

Or you could shove the straightening pieces into the wagon and just leave them there, hiding it with a coal load.

[47137]

21 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

Or you could shove the straightening pieces into the wagon and just leave them there, hiding it with a coal load.

 

Yes I could, but I suspect the load would become permanent. I really would like to add a load and make it removable (I really should have mentioned this) so this would be my last-ditch solution.

 

- Richard.

[cypherman]

Hi,

Here is a couple of tips I was given a few years ago.

1/ Cut a block of balsawood or similar to the correct size. Push it in so that it pushes out the wagon sides to the correct position. Go over the wagon sides with a heat gun so the sides soften and relax to the original position. Allow to cool and the sides should be straight.

2/ Initially similar to the first method. Cut and fit a block of balsa etc. Put body in a bowl of hot water which should be hot enough to relax the sides to their correct position. Then poor cold water in to set the wagons sides.

I have yet to try either method and I would advise caution with the amount of heat/hot water used. especially hot water as you do not want to scald your hand getting the wagon out.

Edited October 11, 2021 by cypherman

[47137]

9 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi,

Here is a couple of tips I was given a few years ago.

1/ Cut a block of balsawood or similar to the correct size. Push it in so that it pushes out the wagon sides to the correct position. Go over the wagon sides with a heat gun so the sides soften and relax to the original position. Allow to cool and the sides should be straight.

2/ Initially similar to the first method. Cut and fit a block of balsa etc. Put body in a bowl of hot water which should be hot enough to relax the sides to their correct position. The poor cold water in to set the wagons sides.

I have yet to try either method and I would advise caution with the amount of heat/hot water used. especially hot water as you do not want to scald your hand getting the wagon out.

 

I have success with a variation of method 2/.

 

I jammed two blocks of softwood into the wagon, together about half a millimetre wider than what was wanted. Then three goes, progressively hotter water for longer periods until anything happened. I ended up soaking the model in near-boiling water for a full five minutes, then quenched in cold water and dried off with the blow gun. I left the model overnight and I now have one perfectly straight side and one side with a slight inward bow but I can live with this. Good.

 

The wood makes the wagon very buoyant so a kitchen weight to hold it into the water.

 

The printing and weathering is unchanged. The end hinge on the inside fell off but I have tacked this back into place.

 

Regarding the heat gun I have always found this a viscous thing. I expect it would work in the right hands and not leave me with a Salvador Dali take on the model :-)

 

Many thanks.

 

- Richard.

[Mainlinefreighter58]

wooden wagons in real life i would imagine they weren't perfectly parallel anyway

[Steamport Southport]

6 minutes ago, Mainlinefreighter58 said:

wooden wagons in real life i would imagine they weren't perfectly parallel anyway

 

The problem is they normally bowed out due to the loads rather than bowing in like many model wagons do.

 

Even steel minerals had the problem. Usually down to overloading.

 

 

Jason

[47137]

44 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

The problem is they normally bowed out due to the loads rather than bowing in like many model wagons do.

 

Even steel minerals had the problem. Usually down to overloading.

 

 

Jason

 

Yes.

 

I discovered, if I try to be too clever and have the long sides bowed outwards a little, then the short ends start to bend inwards and this looks even worse.

 

This does get me thinking about the next wagon I build from a kit, a smidgen of styrene or filler at each corner would let the long sides bow outwards without upsetting the ends. And it is easier to have a bow (in the right direction) than a perfect straight edge.

 

- Richard.

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Richard,

 I had a problem with a Parkside mineral wagon kit that I built once. I’m still not sure how it happened but this particular wagon ended up being twisted across the chassis and would have definitely derailed had I run it.

My (long term) solution was to raise the low axle boxes by a couple of millimetres, weight the interior of the body considerably (probably using coins) and leave it on a bedroom window sill for several months! It was a location that wasn’t susceptible to much sunshine, I hasten to add.

Some time later, I tried it and it was perfect. It was a good job I could afford the time to do this as it’s a very slow solution.

 

So, if you wanted to emulate this, packing the interior of your wagon with appropriately sized coffee stirrers and making a temporary removable load to cover the sticks, could give you the solution you need, whilst keeping the wagon in service.

 I like the idea of building in some bodywork sagging though.

Cheers,

John

[47137]

On 12/10/2021 at 11:58, Allegheny1600 said:

Hi Richard,

 I had a problem with a Parkside mineral wagon kit that I built once. I’m still not sure how it happened but this particular wagon ended up being twisted across the chassis and would have definitely derailed had I run it.

My (long term) solution was to raise the low axle boxes by a couple of millimetres, weight the interior of the body considerably (probably using coins) and leave it on a bedroom window sill for several months! It was a location that wasn’t susceptible to much sunshine, I hasten to add.

Some time later, I tried it and it was perfect. It was a good job I could afford the time to do this as it’s a very slow solution.

 

So, if you wanted to emulate this, packing the interior of your wagon with appropriately sized coffee stirrers and making a temporary removable load to cover the sticks, could give you the solution you need, whilst keeping the wagon in service.

 I like the idea of building in some bodywork sagging though.

Cheers,

John

 

I have left the model untouched for a fortnight, and the long sides have stayed put. So what I have done now, is simply make a lift-out coal load, this is built up on a rectangle of ply sitting on a block of wood so pressing either end makes it tip to lift it out. The ply is about half a mm undersize all round but this doesn't show up unless you look for it.

 

A friend suggested the bowed sides were because the model had sat in a shipping container in the Suez Canal ... I think unlikely; the models are made in Chirk. I do think, the curvature is in the nature of moulding such a large part in one piece; and now I know how to put it right.

 

Here is a second photo to show how good these Dapol models are. This one is factory weathered, I have added a little more grime to tone in the fronts of the wheels but I still need to do something about the inside.

 

 

It's nice to see such lovely models made in Britain.

 

- Richard.

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Richard,

That’s looking really lovely!

You’re right, it is very nice to see such good quality models being made in the UK.

Cheers,

John