North British Diesel Hydraulic B - B 6320

[Ressaldar]

I have just completed the build of an MM1 kit of a Class 22

 

 

 

 

 

so no doubt Dapol will now announce the ) Gauge version of their N & OO model.

 

A build not without its problems, mainly adapting the bogie side frames to be removable rather than glued in solid to enable servicing of the wheels and motor, A SLater's Canon motot with GB13 gearbox was used and it is fitted with a Zimo MX699ks with YouChoos soundfile. It is the kit with the 3d printed parts in lieu of lost wax and most of the 3D parts were replaced mainly due to overscale appearance, with parts of my own making or bought in lost wax replacements,

 

regards

 

Mike

Edited November 19, 2021 by Ressaldar
Title change

[Hal Nail]

That's really very nice, or to be more strictly accurate, every bit as ugly as the real thing!

Now you just need a rake of Mike Hughes' clay hoods.

 

Interesting about the replacement parts which has sent me scurrying to look at my 47 more closely.

 

 

[Halvarras]

3 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

I have just completed the build of an MM1 kit of a Class 22

 

 

 

 

 

so no doubt Dapol will now announce the ) Gauge version of their N & OO model.

 

A build not without its problems, mainly adapting the bogie side frames to be removable rather than glued in solid to enable servicing of the wheels and motor, A SLater's Canon motot with GB13 gearbox was used and it is fitted with a Zimo MX699ks with YouChoos soundfile. It is the kit with the 3d printed parts in lieu of lost wax and most of the 3D parts were replaced mainly due to overscale appearance, with parts of my own making or bought in lost wax replacements,

 

regards

 

Mike

 

A splendid job Sir, it really looks the part. And a timely reminder that the real Class 22s have been gone very nearly half a century (in fact I photographed D6334 from Truro's 'black bridge' 50 years ago yesterday, a neat trick as it had been officially withdrawn 11 days earlier........blame the dodgy state of the LMR's Class 25 cast-offs!) Servicing concerns have led me to amend kit builds too, gluing everything up will only invoke the Law of S*d at some point.......I need to know I can take things apart if......no, when, it strikes!I

 

51 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

 

Now you just need a rake of Mike Hughes' clay hoods.

 

 

But without the hoods..........!!

[Phil Bullock]

Very nice indeed! Just finishing D6342 based on Dapols 00 offering … all front end detailing changed, D6336 already done. Was lucky enough to see most of them in traffic…. 

[Ressaldar]

I have now obtained another kit, this time with all lost wax castings so it will be interesting to see how things pan out.   This one will be in green but the jury is still out as to whether a syp will appear, watch this space.Number range D6313 - 6333.

 

regards

 

Mike

Edited October 24, 2021 by Ressaldar

[JeffP]

It will be interesting to see how the castings compare to the printed items.

Any chance of any photos?

[Hal Nail]

13 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

I have now obtained another kit, this time with all lost wax castings so it will be interesting to see how things pan out.   This one will be in green but the jury is still out as to whether a syp will appear, watch this space.Number range D6313 - 6333.

 

regards

 

Mike

I presume you mean second hand rather than MM1 can still do lost wax?

 

I took another look at my 47 kit after your post and the printed parts look ok but are incredibly flimsy so I doubt things like hand rails would last 5 minutes.

[Ressaldar]

4 hours ago, JeffP said:

It will be interesting to see how the castings compare to the printed items.

Any chance of any photos?

Hi Jeff,

 

Herewith photos of lost wax and 3D printed versions

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

from the drivers seats down on the last page, they are whitemetal.

 

Sorry that I cannot put them side by side. 3D printed are very brittle and will not stand up to any form of handling or knocks.

 

regards

 

Mike

[Ressaldar]

4 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

I presume you mean second hand rather than MM1 can still do lost wax?

 

I took another look at my 47 kit after your post and the printed parts look ok but are incredibly flimsy so I doubt things like hand rails would last 5 minutes.

 

Hi Hal,

 

Yes it is second hand, bought back from the guy I sold it to in March 2016!

 

As I said in the reply above, the 3D versions will not stand up to any knocks and are quite brittle so tread carefully.

 

Just for comparison, nose ends with 3D and 0.7mm wire handrails.

 

 

 

regards

 

Mike

Edited October 25, 2021 by Ressaldar

[Hal Nail]

3 hours ago, Ressaldar said:

 

Hi Hal,

 

Yes it is second hand, bought back from the guy I sold it to in March 2016!

 

As I said in the reply above, the 3D versions will not stand up to any knocks and are quite brittle so tread carefully.

 

Just for comparison, nose ends with 3D and 0.7mm wire handrails.

 

regards

 

Mike

Thanks, noted!

I bought a class 25 way back which sat in the stash until I eventually/inevitably sold it on some years later. When I fetched the original postage box, the "if undelivered" address was the chap who'd just bought it back off me!

[Ressaldar]

They say 'what goes round comes round'

 

cheers

 

Mike

[Ressaldar]

One thing that is bothering me with the new build, what is the name of the colour of the 'off? white' stripe on the lower body side and is it available as a rattle can? I have heard 'Ford Highland Green' mentioned but I think that that refers to the Class 14 & 17 cabs.

 

Any suggestions would be welcome.

 

regards

 

Mike

Edited October 26, 2021 by Ressaldar

[Michael Edge]

It's not green, very light blue I think.

[Ressaldar]

23 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

It's not green, very light blue I think.

Thanks Michael, it has been suggested as a 'light grey' in other quarters.

 

regards

 

Mike

[Gilbert]

I cheated and just masked the light grey primer when I did the green..

Chris

Edited October 26, 2021 by Gilbert

[Ressaldar]

Hi Chris,

 

a neat solution and one that I might well follow. Nice model by/the way.

 

regards

 

Mike

[Gilbert]

2 minutes ago, Ressaldar said:

Hi Chris,

 

Nice model by/the way.

 

regards

 

Mike

Cheers

an "interesting" build I think...

Chris

[Ressaldar]

Hi Chris,

 

not without its little foibles, but scrubs up nice in the end.

 

regards

 

Mike

[Hal Nail]

I thought such stripes were a form of duck egg blue (which I associate more with Hurricanes!) and in the past I've had green and blue paint called that from different sources. For me, that grey primer under dirt is plenty close enough!

Edited October 26, 2021 by Hal Nail

[Ressaldar]

Otherwise engaged for most of the week and a one step forward and two steps back moment as well.



I squared off the aperture for the gearbox and also roughed out a clearance space for the final drive in the bottom angle - just seen in the centre of the shot above. Then I had a moment of madness and decided to trial fit the motor/gearbox and delrin drive sprocket as I was mindful that I have to trim the boss of the sprocket down to fit in the remaining space on the axle and also give sufficient room for the chain to pass outside the gearbox. Having reduced the sprocket boss, I slid the axle through the outside bearing then the gearbox and lined up the sprocket boss and carefully pushed the axle through then fitted the outside bearing. The sprocket needed adjusting away from the gearbox and as with the previous model, I used a flat screwdriver between the gearbox and the sprocket and twisted slowly - the blade slipped and promptly cut off one of the sprocket teeth It was at this point that the penny dropped and I realised that I should have not only put the brake pull rods on first but I should also have put the brake hangers on (so that I could align the pull rods) but I should have also primed and painted the whole bogie firstso I removed the axle and set about righting the error of my ways, came in and ordered a replacement sprocket and a couple of spares while I was at it.

 

Having left things for a couple of days I have now fitted the brakes and the pull rods, both fitted nicely and much better than the 3D printed offerings in the previous kit

 

The instructions would have you fitting the outer ends of the pull rods to the frame sides and warn you if you do this it then makes it almost impossible to get to the wheels etc once you have completed the task, so as I had made provision to make the sides removable, I glued the outer ends to the chassis block and alignment wise you can hardly notice the difference. The inner ends of the rods are cast with a hole in which fits over a spigot on the bottom of the brake hanger, I enlarged the hole so that slips over the spigot and thus makes it easy when removing the sideframes.

The bogies will be primed later and painted tomorrow, hopefully the postie will deliver the sprockets and I will be able to finish the bogies off and at least have a test run on the rolling road.

More to come soon.

regards

Mike

[Ressaldar]

The replacement sprockets eventually arrived on Tuesday, (having been posted 1st Class on Thursday) and duly fitted and tested on the rolling road and further tested on the Club continuous run tracks on Wednesday and last night and the general comment was how quiet it was running. The body consisted of the two outer walls, the bulkheads and the roof so it looked more like a motorised shed then even the LNER Y6s do! The testing up to yesterday had been carried out with the sprockets just pushed onto the axles but this morning I went for the belt and braces approach and pinned both sprockets to the axles.

The brake piping, lost wax castings and a great deal more convincing than the 3D printed versions supplied with the previous kit, plus my additional pipework was added to the bogies yesterday morning.



this afternoon has seen the Zimo MX699ks fitted + speaker and I am very pleased with the resulting sound and movement.

Tomorrow I will complete the chassis - buffer beam and pipework, steps, water tank vents etc. then get down to the cabs and lighting and giving further thought to a number.

More to follow.

regards

Mike

[Ressaldar]

The first thing to report is that a number has been decided on - D6320 - who could resist such a compelling photo
 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/64518788@N05/9254584946/in/photolist-dKk6Pk-dUmxZN-dK7nTX-CuCiNm-2krPL1b-UGDvqf-dAriwK-oRfKpE-pC7quS-9bKj8Z-axf58u-dQDv6s-o8tvDe-Sr7NE2-2mFjnyK-f6NaFq-4ZVYNE-84ABsS-ab4dvv-fsDRZr-5znTvh-2dV2mGM-2jJWap5-2mFsYCE-4zePkp-2jfLAnR-2mFsYAv-217gqE7-2jqhhJE-d9YKUJ-d9YKX2-d9YCJR-2jfLzYK-UFXNVe-2cT3xdU-UbhY5J-oeynPY-H5kHEw-43y3ni-2krd7yV-dMj2MZ-cMAtpW-dNvt13-dM7QYW-dLMXrF-cYdhUy-cN2dqE-cPE2dJ-2mcMR7c-dN9CLq

 

The only thing that is missing is the SYP, which appears on another photo, so I have no excuses, except that the SYP will have to go on last of all as the masking involved would be very tricky if applying the yellow first.

I have put all of the detailing castings on the chassis and bogies and have also attached the cab doors in readiness for the fettling required to get the cab fit as close as possible to the rest of the body.

 

No 1 end to the right with the doors having just been inserted and the overall fit isn't too bad.

 

No 2 end, not quite as good but nit beyond recovery

 

No 2 end from the other side


No 1 end to the left, roof grill etches still to apply, bodyside etches will be fixed after painting.

The position of the white marker lights has been determined and will all be drilled out, the jury is still out as to which ones will be 'lit'. favourite at the moment is No1 end, lower left and lower centre, No 2 end, lower centre.

Hopefully more to come soon.

regards

Mike

Edited November 20, 2021 by Ressaldar
Link restored

[Ressaldar]

Not much progress this week except that the light positions were drilled out and the 2mm lighthouse LEDs tried for fit and clearance



;A' end with bottom right & centre 'whites



and 'B' end with upper centre & lower centre whites.

I have discovered that there is sufficient clearance to fit these lighthouse LEDs 'as supplied' but will have to insert a 20 thou piece of black plasticard immediately behind the front face to act as a light baffle which will bring the protruding part of the lighthouse back to a more reasonable length, it can also be filed round if needed.

Last night I took both 22s down to the Club to see how they performed 'double headed'
 

scope for some more trials me thinks!!

regards

Mike

 

[Ressaldar]

Further (slow) progress made over the past week, with the end fittings now in place, some after the primer was applied.

 

 

also fitted the console controls, chairs and a bearded driver followed by further trial fitting of cabs to main body

 

which fortunately, don't look too bad.

Ali window surrounds painted next followed by window installation, the lights and then the console table/floor section can be inserted and the cabs can be joined onto the body.

More to follow soon.

regards

Mike

[Ressaldar]

So I actually made it into the workshop this morning and it turned to be quite productive in as much as I refitted the desk console/floor unit in number 1 end, having first re-fixed the lighthouse LEDs and followed this up with fixing the cabs to the main body

 

which turned out not too bad (no worse than the first build), a bit of judicious filling should sort things out.

I then concentrated on the bringing down brightness of the LEDs, I had already put resistors onto the + blue leads but thought that they were still too bright, so I introduced 5k resistor to each line immediately before the wires went into the terminal block on the decoder.

I still think that they may be too bright, but the bigger concern in the overspill on the white lights, again, this may reduce if I put larger resistors in but I think that I may have to insert a sliver of blue-tac or the like to contain the light behind the disc without giving the appearance that the disc is 'solid'.

The next task is to get the filler in and get some weight into the body in the form of self adhesive wheel balance weights and then think about painting.

regards

Mike