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Hornby S15 problem


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  • RMweb Gold

So my Hornby S15 has just stopped. There is power to the track.

The pickups all appear fine.

My layout is DC.

I have taken off the body. When I connect voltage directly to the motor terminals, it runs ok.

I see that the wires from the pickups go into the tender to the DCC blanking socket. This board acts as a terminal for all the wires and sends the current back to the motor.

I therefore conclude there is a problem with the DCC socket or blanking plug.

As I am running DC, I am tempted to remove the socket and plug and just solder the wires together.

Is this ok, or am I missing anything?

20211016_125352.jpg.404adb90fc308c3b31a6bf4977fdd2ab.jpg

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold
23 minutes ago, Chrisr40 said:

Hi, you could try lifting the dcc plug up a little in case it is pushed in so tight the pins are shorting on something below. I have had this before so it's got to be worth a try. Good luck.

Hmm, very odd. Orignally, the loco might run then it would stop. The dreaded intermittent fault. I just tried what you said and hey ho, it ran...then stopped again and refuses to restart.

I am so tempted just to snip all the wires and just solder them together.

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13 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Hmm, very odd. Orignally, the loco might run then it would stop. The dreaded intermittent fault. I just tried what you said and hey ho, it ran...then stopped again and refuses to restart.

I am so tempted just to snip all the wires and just solder them together.

 

I seem to remember reports of similar problems due to poorly soldered joints that didn't conduct properly.

 

If so you may still have the problem even if you axe the DCC gubbins. Presumably it would be possible to test for such with an electricians meter.

 

John.

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

 

I seem to remember reports of similar problems due to poorly soldered joints that didn't conduct properly.

 

If so you may still have the problem even if you axe the DCC gubbins. Presumably it would be possible to test for such with an electricians meter.

 

John.

Well maybe. My plan is to snip the wires and remove the DCC gubbins completely. Just solder the wires together.

It's all too small to test properly with a meter, I can't get the probes in without touching all the terminals.

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Just fixed one of these. 2 problems arose. Gear tower had too much grease in it and was a) slowing it down and b) was pushing the retaining clip on the tower, off, preventing the gears meshing smoothly. The second problem was the soldered joints. About 2/3 were bad. After a strip and clean then re-soldering, off she went lovely. My neighbour then requested i replace the motor with an identical, aftermarket, example after hearing about the "brush problem", (as this is an early example). The original motor seemed fine but did have a tight spot which you could feel with your fingertips which i assume is what the fuss is about. Once this was done there was a transformation in the running qualities!  :locomotive:

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9 hours ago, ikcdab said:

I am so tempted just to snip all the wires and just solder them together.

 

This is what I do with mine, but usually keep the loco tender connection for the pick ups. The two outer wires on the connector from the loco are from the track and the two inner ones are to the motor, so join the outer and inner from each side together and remove the gubbins from the tender and make sure there is a link from the tender connector to the pick ups on the tender.

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  • RMweb Gold
46 minutes ago, Ben Alder said:

 

This is what I do with mine, but usually keep the loco tender connection for the pick ups. The two outer wires on the connector from the loco are from the track and the two inner ones are to the motor, so join the outer and inner from each side together and remove the gubbins from the tender and make sure there is a link from the tender connector to the pick ups on the tender.

Ok thanks. I have done that. All now fine. 

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