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Very basic question: cleaning prepatory to painting


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Hello,

 

I'm applying final details to a 7mm Eric Underhill LNWR Special Tank.   It is largely resin with brass.   I got it running a year ago, and it has been handled a lot.   My chum would have me wash it with lacquer thinners, but I applied many details with super glue and the thinners would dissolve the glue.

 

I have read that simple dish washing liquid contains lanolin and will leave a slick surface that paint will have trouble adhering to.   Will I be able to remove the lanolin with a wash of alcohol? 

 

I have a spray bomb of etch primer.    It seemed to work well on my 4' shunter.   I cannot get Precision paints here in the states, and I can't find etch primer suitable for a spray brush.

 

So I'm asking advice for cleaning the loco body prior to painting.

 

Kevin

California

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I've used bathroom cleaner (like Tilex) and a toothbrush for my brass models.  Do the cleaning over a mesh strainer in case any bits come off.

 

If you have an aftermarket car parts store (Canadian Tire here and Halfords in UK), they should have rattle can primer suitable for plastic and metal.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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For cleaning stuff like finger prints grease off I use IPA applied with a lint free cloth (spectacle cleaning type of cloth), and for awkward corners a cotton bud or tooth pick. It evaporates quickly enough that it doesn't affect glues. For more stubborn residues like excess flux I dunk in foam oven cleaner and go in expecting to be re-fixing some glued parts.

 

For primer I just use off the shelf automotive products, they should be available in metal, plastic and various etching primers. To be honest, I've not had a problem with metal primers on plastics unless they've been far too heavily applied. Back when I started kit building in my early teens (1:24 plastic trucks with some after market resin moulds too), I didn't even realise there was a difference so everything went into metal primer with no issues ever noticed. To this day if I ever run out of plastic primer, I'll reach for metal primer and just go easy on it.

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On 20/10/2021 at 21:26, brossard said:

I've used bathroom cleaner (like Tilex) and a toothbrush for my brass models.  Do the cleaning over a mesh strainer in case any bits come off.

 

If you have an aftermarket car parts store (Canadian Tire here and Halfords in UK), they should have rattle can primer suitable for plastic and metal.

 

John

John,

 

I'm here in the US, an American, and at times I understand Churchill's observation that we are two peoples separated by a common language.

 

When you say "bathroom cleaner" do you mean a dry gritty powder that scrubs away soap buildup from hard surfaces?    Like Ajax and Comet?   Those are our brands.

 

Thanks,

Kevin

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15 hours ago, brossard said:

Kevin, I'm in Canada so I think we should be on the same page.  I'm talking about spray cleaner.

 

Maybe you know it as Clorox:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Health-Personal-Care-Household-Mold-Mildew-Removers/zgbs/hpc/15524335011

 

John

Ah.    How do you get the residue off,  Does rinsing in water suffice?

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I sit the model in a bath of super saturated TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) and wash off with water.  I also use Canadian Tire primer in a spray can, but the brown one as it seems to fill minor blemishes batter than the silver primer.  For black surfaces I have just started using Rust-Oleum matt black primer out of a spray can and am rather happy with it. 

Edited by Theakerr
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  • 3 weeks later...
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I'd also recommend Barkeeper's Friend, the white fairly liquid stuff in a squeezy bottle, mildly abrasive, a bit like Ajax; then, Viakal, which removes limescale from all the washes - these are both the UK names, hope this helps.

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