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Dapol ex Airfix kit windows


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9 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

Put them in inside out - they look a lot better.

 

See here: https://philsworkbench.blogspot.com/2018/05/improving-airfix-windows.html

 

Like the commentator on your blog, I thought they were supposed to go inside. For anything except (possibly) modern uPVC the frames look far too wide.

 

More generally, finding realistic windows in 4mm is a problem. A few years ago, someone produced a range of printed (maybe card) glazed windows and doors and advertised in the mags. I think those are out of production. More generally, the people at York modelmaking have some standard windows (as well as the made to measure), but their  measurements appear to be for the whole item (i.e. including the 'flange' at the back to glue to the inside of the wall) - or if not then I guess they are *large*.

 

But I think Dapol make a small range of buildings, including the old airfix station building - what can replace the kit windows will depend on the particular kit.

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The original Airfix instructions indicated to insert the windows from outside. As such they look horrible* and are much better inserted inside. Unfortunately being designed to fit outside there is a slight gap to fill around each window. The windows also need reducing in thickness, so that the glazing fits more nearly flush.

Better windows can be constructed from plastic strip.

 

* I built quite a few kits like this when they first appeared in the late fifties. They looked wrong even to my youthful eyes.

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It's a pity that most domestic buildings in the GB have white window frames as I have has some success in printing coloured frames onto transparencies for Scalescenes industrial building. AS my plans for this winter include constructing a number of buildings I am investigating purchasing a Cricut cutting machine. Does anyone have experience of using such a device for windows etc?

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Even at c8yo, I worked out that the windows ought to go inside, not out. Some of them have quite distinctive pane geometry that matches the architecture properly, and if you are mega-patient it is worth filing the glazing bars thinner, but otherwise not changing them.

 

Rigid clear styrene or Perspex c1mm thick, with glazing bars drawn on using a bow pen, or possibly these days a Posca paint pen works very well if you don’t want to go full on etched or laser-cut.

Edited by Nearholmer
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On 25/10/2021 at 02:43, zarniwhoop said:

Like the commentator on your blog, I thought they were supposed to go inside. For anything except (possibly) modern uPVC the frames look far too wide

 

If that was the case, why did they put a cill on what would be the inside?

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45 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

 

If that was the case, why did they put a cill on what would be the inside?

Possibly to support the glazing (I assume it was a sheet you had to cut to size) until the airfix polystyrene cement from the tube was holding it enough for it not to drop.

 

Alternatively, in best british manglement tradition, someone screwed up before all the parts were ready and made "constructive changes" to get it all to fit.

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1 hour ago, Phil Parker said:

 

If that was the case, why did they put a cill on what would be the inside?

They were designed on the basis of the frame being fitted from outside; however, the Booking Hall mould tool was amended after a few years so that sills were added to the walls and the instruction header revised to insert the windows from inside. The very early unmodified version is hard to find! This seems to have been the only one which was expressly modified in this way but as Nearholmer says, even at a young age it was easy to see that ignoring the instructions and inserting the window frames from inside improved the appearance of the buildings considerably.

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I don't think I ever built anything with windows apart from the engine shed that had them on the inside. ISTR the only other Airfix building I made was the church that didn't have any separate windows.

 

A lot of them weren't available at the time I was making Airfix kits. Most of my buildings were Ratio and the Hornby GWR ones.

 

 

 

Jason

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On 31/10/2021 at 10:12, MyRule1 said:

It's a pity that most domestic buildings in the GB have white window frames as I have has some success in printing coloured frames onto transparencies for Scalescenes industrial building. AS my plans for this winter include constructing a number of buildings I am investigating purchasing a Cricut cutting machine. Does anyone have experience of using such a device for windows etc?

 

White window frames only really appeared in the (and I'm sure someone has a more accurate date) late 1950s with the development of paint that stayed white for long periods. Nowadays, the fashion is for coloured frames again, so white isn't the only choice. 

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3 hours ago, zarniwhoop said:

Possibly to support the glazing (I assume it was a sheet you had to cut to size) until the airfix polystyrene cement from the tube was holding it enough for it not to drop.

 

You are clutching at straws. If this were the case, you still have to explain why the instructions AND every photo in contemporary catalogues, shows frames on the outside. 

 

The point is, Airfix kits weren't as perfect as people like to remember. The engine shed has the wrong brick bond and doors with a gap to let o gauge rail in at the bottom for starters. It's still a useable kit, but modern ones are better in many ways. 

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6 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

White window frames only really appeared in the (and I'm sure someone has a more accurate date) late 1950s

I remember the street where we first lived in the South Wales valleys in late 50s and early 60s and most doors and windows were varnished - and so appeared in some shade of mid-brown.

 

Yours,  Mike.

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On 02/11/2021 at 01:35, Phil Parker said:

 

White window frames only really appeared in the (and I'm sure someone has a more accurate date) late 1950s with the development of paint that stayed white for long periods. Nowadays, the fashion is for coloured frames again, so white isn't the only choice. 

The house I lived in with my parents in the 50s had mid - dark red frames and the opening lights were all white.

It was Edwardian with most windows being side hung (no sashes), and smallish panes of glass, rather in the Georgian style.

This one actually and it looks like it still has the same windows and front door! (Probably double glazed copies)

 

house.JPG.00f91a379b87b628af685c416610abae.JPG

 

Edited by melmerby
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14 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

 

If that was the case, why did they put a cill on what would be the inside?

 

Most definitely they were designed to go outside. IIRC some genius in the early sixties modelling press came up with the 'fit inside' idea.

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21 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

 

You are clutching at straws. If this were the case, you still have to explain why the instructions AND every photo in contemporary catalogues, shows frames on the outside. 

 

The point is, Airfix kits weren't as perfect as people like to remember. The engine shed has the wrong brick bond and doors with a gap to let o gauge rail in at the bottom for starters. It's still a useable kit, but modern ones are better in many ways. 

They were cheap and widely available but 'scale models' they definitely were not - in particular there was a lot of compression in the buildings to minimise space required and material used. The Booking Office has a bizarre number of windows - I did one which I added an interior to and to make it work I ended up blanking a fair few of the windows off. One of the shop kits is extremely American in outline and comes with what I presume are supposed to be Crittall-style windows except the 'glazing' bars are thick as tree trunks. But they are great fun to kitbash and improve on. My entire stash comes from 'crap' found in 50p bins etc under toyfair tables - no point in buying a new unmade kit when there are 60 years-worth of other peoples' abandoned projects out there unloved and unvalued.

Edited by andyman7
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