Track at baseboard joints on portable layouts

[MarshLane]

Evening all,

I am seeking the advice from the great and the good on here, with regards to how to handle the rail break at baseboard joints on a portable layout. I am slowly recommencing work on my N gauge American Railway, and I’m starting with totally new baseboards that will be laser cut from 6mm birch ply. The intention is that the end of each board will have carpenters dowels to handle the alignment, along with reasonably powerful rare earth magnets to help with holding them together. So I am reasonably confident that the baseboards alignment will be accurate every time.

 

The track work will be handbuilt Code 40 rail are using copper clad sleepers. My question therefore is what do people consider is the best way to secure the rails at the end of the board to avoid damage and misalignment. I am taking care to ensure where is the possible that the baseboard ends are at 90° to the track. My initial thought is that potentially some form of soldering to a copper clad block for the last 3/4 of an inch of the board is perhaps the best way forward but I then encounter issues as to how to disguise this on the scenic sections.

 

What are the layout is not intended, at this point in time, for exhibition use, it is a Portable Layout as it will have to be erected at the start of running sessions, and split down and stored after use. Therefore I am keen to protect the ends of the board primarily from the track work perspective but also scenic, when it is being put back into it storage box or manhandled.

 

Any help and advice would be much appreciated, especially from those who have experience of exhibition layouts as to what does and does not work. For reference, electrical continuity will be handled beneath the boards so there is no requirement for fishplates et cetera on the track. They do say a picture tells 1000 words, so if anyone has the ability to show an image of how they have successfully achieve this in the past it would be much appreciated.
 

As ever guys I appreciate any help that can be given!

 

Richie.

[ITG]

Not familiar at all with code 40, but these may work.

 

https://www.modeltech.uk/

 

Whilst this particular version is for code 55, the actual rail used is not part of this connector, but merely soldered on top of it. Hence your code 40 could be. I guess there’s a possibility that the top of the rail height might not be aligned, but if this connector is too deep, you could either inset it slightly, or slightly raise the approaches to it.

 

I’ve used the 00 version for a removable bridge across a gap, and it works well.

[DavidB-AU]

For North American N, I'd look at the methods used by modular systems such as Free-moN and FREMO-americaN which are tried and tested, and very robust.

 

Cheers

David

[Gilbert]

4 hours ago, ITG said:

Not familiar at all with code 40, but these may work.

 

https://www.modeltech.uk/

 

Whilst this particular version is for code 55, the actual rail used is not part of this connector, but merely soldered on top of it. Hence your code 40 could be. I guess there’s a possibility that the top of the rail height might not be aligned, but if this connector is too deep, you could either inset it slightly, or slightly raise the approaches to it.

 

I’ve used the 00 version for a removable bridge across a gap, and it works well.

I to have used their OO version and am very happy.

Chris

[Philou]

Our club cut their own from copper clad paxolin board of about 30 - 40 mm length and cut to look like sleepering (left continuous under the rail). It looks just the same as a short length of Peco track as they shape it to suit their needs (straight or curved). Their method is to assemble the board, lay the track over the joint, mark and remove the necessary amount of plastic sleepering. The preformed copper clad is placed in position under the track and when happy screwed into place - not forgetting to make isolating cuts - and the track soldered to the copper clad. The track is then cut along the board joint. Electrical continuity is by DIN plugs.

 

I did have photo but I can't locate it at the mo' - sorry.

 

On my module (00), I just used one piece of paxolin of double sleeper width but the same length as a Peco sleeper (simple right angled joints - no curves) screwed and then soldered. Once ballasted and weathered, unless you look, I don't think you can readily see it - especially from 3' away!

 

I'll take a photo later and post it up (someone is sleeping in the same room as the module as I write this).

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

[MarshLane]

Morning guys,

Thanks for the initial responses.

 

8 hours ago, ITG said:

Not familiar at all with code 40, but these may work.

 

https://www.modeltech.uk/

 

Whilst this particular version is for code 55, the actual rail used is not part of this connector, but merely soldered on top of it. Hence your code 40 could be. I guess there’s a possibility that the top of the rail height might not be aligned, but if this connector is too deep, you could either inset it slightly, or slightly raise the approaches to it.

 

I’ve used the 00 version for a removable bridge across a gap, and it works well.

Hmm, not come across those at all, but it looks interesting. I didn't realise that you could get anything like that - the interlocking between the two pieces could also be very useful, as a double check on alignment.  Thanks @ITG (sorry dont know your name!) 

 

7 hours ago, DavidB-AU said:

For North American N, I'd look at the methods used by modular systems such as Free-moN and FREMO-americaN which are tried and tested, and very robust.

 

Cheers

David

 

David, thanks for those links, I'd heard reference to FREMO before, but to be honest, always thought it was some club in the States!!  The FREMO-americaN site has some interesting thoughts, I assumed the track had to be flush with the end of the board, but insetting it by 0.1mm would remove some of the damage hot spots.  Overnight I have also thought of having a separate end covering plate cut, which could use the magnets to be attached to the mainboard when not in use.  But the documents on those two sites are really useful, thanks for pointing that out.

 

3 hours ago, Philou said:

Our club cut their own from copper clad paxolin board of about 30 - 40 mm length and cut to look like sleepering (left continuous under the rail). It looks just the same as a short length of Peco track as they shape it to suit their needs (straight or curved). Their method is to assemble the board, lay the track over the joint, mark and remove the necessary amount of plastic sleepering. The preformed copper clad is placed in position under the track and when happy screwed into place - not forgetting to make isolating cuts - and the track soldered to the copper clad. The track is then cut along the board joint. Electrical continuity is by DIN plugs.

 

On my module (00), I just used one piece of paxolin of double sleeper width but the same length as a Peco sleeper (simple right angled joints - no curves) screwed and then soldered. Once ballasted and weathered, unless you look, I don't think you can readily see it - especially from 3' away!

 

I'll take a photo later and post it up (someone is sleeping in the same room as the module as I write this).

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

 

I had seen something elsewhere about using paxolin board, but each reference I saw to it seemed to suggest it needed 'milling'.  Do you happen to know how your club cut their board?  I like the idea, as it does not detract from the scenic aspects, but would definitely give a far superior and stronger joint at the board ends.  A photo of what you have done would be welcome if you get chance, thanks Philip.

 

Rich

 

[Harlequin]

In my little Minories box, where the baseboard join is quite visible right in the middle of the layout, I used copper clad strips the same dimensions as the Peco sleepers to disguise the rail fixings.

 

Excuse the flux all over the place, this was just after I had soldered the rails and cut them. The copperclad sleepers are superglued to a small timber insert to give them a solid fixing to the baseboard below. They follow the spacing of the Peco sleepers right across the baseboard join. The rails were then soldered across the joint while the baseboards were accurately aligned and then the rails and sleepers were cut with a slitting disc. If the cut is done accurately it ensures the rails don't overhang the boards.

 

When it's all tidied up, painted and ballasted it should be almost invisible.

 

Edit: This is OO of course but the same principle should work in N, just with finer tolerances.

 

Edited November 16, 2021 by Harlequin

[Gilbert]

If it helps...Modeltech In use on Cropper Street

 

 

 

[Kris]

10 hours ago, ITG said:

Not familiar at all with code 40, but these may work.

 

https://www.modeltech.uk/

 

Whilst this particular version is for code 55, the actual rail used is not part of this connector, but merely soldered on top of it. Hence your code 40 could be. I guess there’s a possibility that the top of the rail height might not be aligned, but if this connector is too deep, you could either inset it slightly, or slightly raise the approaches to it.

 

I’ve used the 00 version for a removable bridge across a gap, and it works well.

Those look like very cunning bits of kit. 

[ITG]

1 hour ago, Kris said:

Those look like very cunning bits of kit. 

I found them very easy and useful. There’s how-to videos on YouTube.

[Jeff Smith]

If you are using end boards to store and protect your layout, remember to add spacers or shim boards to the end boards below track level (5mm ply or hardboard) to ensure the track ends do not touch the end boards.....especially if using the Modeltech devices which presumably do project from the board ends....

[brossard]

Just had a read through this.  Some very useful responses.  The usual method is to use copper clad sleepers strongly bonded to the board with rails soldered to the sleepers.  Another method is to drive in brass screws, set the height and solder the rails to the screw heads.  It doesn't look pretty though.

 

One thing I haven't seen is end protectors.  I have used these to protect the rail ends on an exhibition layout.  Simple strips of ply designed to fit over the ends of the boards and bolted in place for transport.  Install these the instant the boards are separated and don't remove them at the other end until the moment the boards are rejoined.

 

John

[Gilbert]

3 minutes ago, brossard said:

 

 

One thing I haven't seen is end protectors.  I have used these to protect the rail ends on an exhibition layout.  Simple strips of ply designed to fit over the ends of the boards and bolted in place for transport.  Install these the instant the boards are separated and don't remove them at the other end until the moment the boards are rejoined.

 

John

I could not agree more - I use high ones with hand holes above backscene height so they protect that and also help with layout handling.

Chris

[brossard]

1 minute ago, Gilbert said:

I could not agree more - I use high ones with hand holes above backscene height so they protect that and also help with layout handling.

Chris

 

Oh, yes, hand holds or handles are really useful.  Trying to manhandle a module without destroying scenery can be difficult.

 

John

[MarshLane]

Thanks chaps,

3 hours ago, Harlequin said:

In my little Minories box, where the baseboard join is quite visible right in the middle of the layout, I used copper clad strips the same dimensions as the Peco sleepers to disguise the rail fixings.

 

Excuse the flux all over the place, this was just after I had soldered the rails and cut them. The copperclad sleepers are superglued to a small timber insert to give them a solid fixing to the baseboard below. They follow the spacing of the Peco sleepers right across the baseboard join. The rails were then soldered across the joint while the baseboards were accurately aligned and then the rails and sleepers were cut with a slitting disc. If the cut is done accurately it ensures the rails don't overhang the boards.

 

When it's all tidied up, painted and ballasted it should be almost invisible.

 

Cheers Phil, that matches with my initial thoughts on the best way forward.  Do you split or handle your layout boards often?  Have you encountered any problems or issues at all?

 

3 hours ago, Gilbert said:

If it helps...Modeltech In use on Cropper Street

 

 

Thanks Gilbert.  While not insurmountable, my only concern is that the Modeltech board has to hang over the edge of the board, which creates a 'pull' point where damage could occur.  The idea of end protection boards does get round it, but as Jeff commented, needs to be taken into account.  My other 'issue' is purely the cost, they seem to be around £10 each, which for my smaller boards to keep the weight down, would get expensive.

 

28 minutes ago, Jeff Smith said:

If you are using end boards to store and protect your layout, remember to add spacers or shim boards to the end boards below track level (5mm ply or hardboard) to ensure the track ends do not touch the end boards.....especially if using the Modeltech devices which presumably do project from the board ends....

 

Thanks Jeff, yes valid point. Thanks 

[ITG]

18 minutes ago, MarshLane said:

My other 'issue' is purely the cost, they seem to be around £10 each, which for my smaller boards to keep the weight down, would get expensive.

Well, that price is for a pack of 4 pairs (ie 8 items). 

[Gilbert]

Re. End protection - by using the 3mm ply inserts in the cork which are staggered slightly from the joint I do get some protection - but any rail end is always a bit vulnerable even when behind the vertical line of a joint - I know....

Chris

Edited November 16, 2021 by Gilbert

[Philou]

9 hours ago, MarshLane said:

Do you happen to know how your club cut their board?

 

9 hours ago, MarshLane said:

 A photo of what you have done would be welcome if you get chance

 

The club use a slitting disk on a cheap Lidl/Aldi Dremel type drill to form the sleeper shape after drilling out a starter hole at each end. You end up with what Phil (Harlequin) has shown on his photo except there is a solid web under each rail (very similar to what is under a piece of Peco track). You may choose have the web as the piece is stronger for it especially if you're going across boards diagonally - as Phil has shown.

 

My method is similar to Phil's as I too used hardwood strip under the paxolin copper clad but these were screwed to board and the paxolin screwed to the strip. It happened to work that way for me as the hardwood was the same depth as my underlay.

 

Here are a couple of photos:

 

This is an end-on view showing the construction depth - plywood baseboard, hardwood strip and double sleeper width copper paxolin all screwed and then dressed with ballast and weathered. This was the main running line hence the beefed-up strip:

 

 

This shows the treatment I did for the sidings/MPD yard. These are single sleeper width again screwed. There is only one used either side of the joint and when I get the layout started I shall use this latter method rather than the double width ones as it does look better aesthetically. However, where joints run diagonally across the boards then I shall use Phil's/the club's style:

 

 

The main board joint is under a bridge as shown and in normal viewing conditions can't be seen anyway - the camera flash hides nothing!

 

 

I looked elsewhere, but I haven't got a photo of the club style one - sorry.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

 

[MarshLane]

Thanks for those images Phil (and @Harlequin), that really helps.  I have a Dremel so forming the sleeper spacing shouldn't be too difficult in that sense, given the way your club did it.  Certainly worth a test. I like the idea of a double sleeper, but on the scenic bits it would need to have sleeper gaps put in to make it look right.

 

5 hours ago, ITG said:

Well, that price is for a pack of 4 pairs (ie 8 items). 

 

Ah! I am pleased you mentioned that, as Id missed it, and thought that the price for one! Doh, never read something quickly at work is today's lesson! Thank you

Rich

[Gilbert]

9 hours ago, MarshLane said:

Thanks for those images Phil (and @Harlequin), that really helps.  I have a Dremel so forming the sleeper spacing shouldn't be too difficult in that sense, given the way your club did it.  Certainly worth a test. I like the idea of a double sleeper, but on the scenic bits it would need to have sleeper gaps put in to make it look right.

 

I agree with you but on a layout that gets moved around the occasional visual sacrifice is sometimes worthwhile and avoids those last minute repairs just as the show is opening....

Chris

[Harlequin]

15 hours ago, MarshLane said:

Cheers Phil, that matches with my initial thoughts on the best way forward.  Do you split or handle your layout boards often?  Have you encountered any problems or issues at all?

 

No problems but to be honest I don't split it often.

 

[Izzy]

For my latest 2mm/2FS project, a tiny folding baseboard circular one using code40 BH on chairplates/PCB sleepers I have used Peco track pins as an added measure. The heads filed flat to give a 'T' shape and pushed through a hole (0.6mm) drilled through the sleeper/chairplate hard up against the outside of the rail. Once soldered it seems to keep the rail end in place and doesn't show too much, although the joints are in a non-scenic portion, (and through an 11.5" radius....).

 

 

 

Not sure whether you are using BH or FB rail, it would show more with the latter I think. Mind you the baseboard is my now normal mount board construction so the pins are easy to drive in. A wash of thin diluted PVA was also applied. I may also ballast so another wash of pva to help things along. Been good so far, about 9 months, so seems stable enough, despite constant making/breaking of the joint/s. There are hinges of course, plus a single brass dowel each joint and with case latches holding them together.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Izzy
to add photos .....which I had forgotten......

[bmthtrains - David]

This is a very useful thread as I’ll be facing the same issue on my new layout. The modeltech system looks good but I’m also considering the ‘solder to brass screw’ approach.

 

I’d planned on laying flexitrack over the baseboard joint then cutting it into two halves using a dremel, each side soldered to the pairs of screws, to get the very best alignment.

 

David 

[Gilbert]

34 minutes ago, bmthtrains - David said:

This is a very useful thread as I’ll be facing the same issue on my new layout. The modeltech system looks good but I’m also considering the ‘solder to brass screw’ approach.

 

I’d planned on laying flexitrack over the baseboard joint then cutting it into two halves using a dremel, each side soldered to the pairs of screws, to get the very best alignment.

 

David 

That works and is possibly even more robust but the model tech stuff does look good

Chris

[wandering blue]

Hi.

As an alternative to model tec , if you’re in HO/00, you may also want to take a look at pre-etched sleepers from dcc concepts.

They come in packs of 80, either 1.0 or 1.6mm thick, for £12.95 a pop.

 

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/pre-etched-sleepers-1-6mm-4mm-scale-straight-track/

 

This is my go to solution now in scenic areas, used in sets of 3 or 4 either side of the join.

 

I’ve got a mix of copper clad and soldered screws for the non-scenic areas. I’ve got a fair few soldered screw joins, but would now go for a more robust length of copper clad, which I find less fiddly.

 

WB