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To stimulate discussion, post photos and exchange ideas, and (being an open public forum) help encourage others to try S scale modelling.

S Scale in 3D - What's on the Printer


Rob R
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Following on from the new topic of "Whats on the Computer" I have started this thread provide a repository for 3D Printing posts.

There will be some overlap but I suspect the CAD  to produce the .stl file (other formats are available) will be in the other thread and the Slicing and Printing process in here.

 

To kick off with is the first test print of the GNR 4 Plank open.

Not an unqualified success, although it is not visible in the photos there is a diagonal crease/blemish from one top corner.

This is different to the suction issue I was getting with the RCH open, that was starting at the corner nearest the build plate. This is at the other end so I presume it is due to the unsupported sides flexing.

Having spotted the crease I didn't bother washing the print too thoroughly before curing. With hindsight I should have as there is a bit of resin build up aroung the door catches so I can't tell if they have worked out ok.

I have added an internal brace to the design and another print is on the go now. More details in the Cad thread.

I am going to need a bigger scap box......

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I'm hoping to purchase an Elegoo Mars or similar in the new year so watching these threads with interest. I'll certainly need to up my CAD game (odd for someone who started out in a drawing office). For those with a penchant for track there is an excellent thread on the Templot forum about 3D printed track. So many possibilities I'm going to need a bigger house

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The second GNR 4 Plank Open print (with floor brace) is done and the diagonal crease/flex has gone. Still a few other minor issues but the direction is now firmly forwards.

The retaining rings for the door catch pins are not printing very well so I will probably either remove them or make them attached to the main body all around.

There is a slight mark across the width just above the headstock at the build plate end.

This may just be a visible mark that will vanish under a coat of paint or possibly a crease where the weight of the print has deformed the end during printing. I will squirt some paint on it and see. Extra supports around here may help as well.

Full steam ahead now on the solebar/floor unit where we shall meet a different set of problems in trying to get the two parts to fit together without too much use of the 10" B'stard file...

Steven,

The object of the exercise is to create of a range of wagons available to SSMRS members either direct from me, printed themselves or through the Parts Officer, hopefully tempting a few more to join our slender ranks.

Suggestions for future project always welcome.

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Edited by Rob R
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been pushing on with the 16T mineral but still running into some problems.

 

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I placed beams across the bottom of the sides to stop the sides warping while printing and curing.   At first I only did the cross-wise beams then found that the ends were bellying outwards,  so a longitudinal beam was added to control the ends.

 

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The door end has turned out well apart from the top girder which has got a rippled edge to it.  It is 0.2mm thick and increasing its thickness to 0.25mm will probably cure that.

 

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The sides have stayed reasonably straight with a slight bow inwards.  I'm looking at putting a plug in the sides to old them straight while curing to see if that can be avoided.

 

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The main problem is the diagonal ridges seen here on the sides,  the worst ones being the one on the left over my thumb and the one on the right at the other end of the side.    They seem to be triggered by where the horizontal beams or the door bottom start.   I'm not sure if this could be down to the supports being too flexible,  or it might be down to the Z column in the Phrozen printer being too flexible.  This has been a complaint since the Sonic Mini 4K appeared on the scene and Phrozen have brought out an upgrade to correct the problem.  I've ordered one of the upgrades and I'll wait until I've installed it before trying more prints.

 

Jim.

Edited by flubrush
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Jim,

Would it help with the 16 tonner fault finding if I had a go at printing it on the Mars?

 

Ok, it would mean changing 2 things (machine and resin) but hopefully would eliminate or otherwise any issues with your machine.

 

Are you curing in water?

 

What angle are you printing at?

I am printing at 25 micron layer height and Elegoo recommend 19 deg. I was just doing this on one axis but the latest print has been 19 deg on 2 axis and has come out great.

Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...

The above photos were taken before curing and the lighting has highlighted the layer lines.

It didn't look anything like that in the flesh.

Post curing the gloss sheen has gone and it photographs much better.

The layer lines still show a bit but are virtually invisable on the print and will probably vanish with the first coat of paint.

Overall not too shabby for a budget hobby machine.

 

Rob

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These are Flubrushes Caley boiler fittings he drew up a while ago. Just playing to see if it is feasable to do such fittings at a suitable quality and price for stocking in the SSMRS stores.

Wheel centres for SSMRS rims are also on the play list but they may require a different resin.

For personal S stuff the butterfly has, for now, settled on the West Midlands Railway, circa 1860 (and Frisco, Kansas City c1970).

Keep safe out there.

Rob

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Photo of my DeWinton parts.   The boiler is just a rough print that i will now print in a higher grade material.   The fittings are printed in brass by Shapeways.   They are a little big (10%) as I will now get them cast by slatters and there will be further shrinkage.

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  • 1 month later...

I thought it may be of interest to update my progress with printing the FR tank engine. After 4 drawing revisions I am getting there, but still need some changes.

I mentioned at the recent zoom meeting I was intending to print separate parts footplate/smokebox, boiler/firebox , tank/cab etc.  I got as far as printing the footplate/smokebox (back of photo) but too many things warped when cured.

I redesigned as a complete body (except roof) trying to connect parts as much as possible for strength eg the (half) boiler is connected to the inner tank wall which has a connecting rib to the outer tank/cabside. The resulting printed body came out very solid. The main issue is a slight bellying out of the footplate between the wheels. I think I can sort that by completely boxing in around the wheels.

 The back bunker also warped but I can increase walls and hide them with coal. The top of the cab above the door opening also warped slightly, but probably this can be overcome when  fixing to the roof. The main problem is the steps which splay outwards I snapped off front step on this body. I may have to print these and tank balancing pipes separately.

The print quality was reasonable considering I am using recycled resin plus cold weather concerns there are a few diagonal print lines are visible, but on the plus side all the rivet detail printed well.

The body fits nicely on Timbers chassis, which I modified slightly.

So hopefully Revision 4 changes will give a successful print I am even going to buy some new resin!

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  • 2 weeks later...

At last I got some decent prints of the 16T mineral wagon body after a lot of messing around with the thickness of the body sides,  the orientation of the body and the supporting of the body.  I've now lost count of rejected prints,  but it has to be in the region of three dozen.

 

 

 

 

 

The door end and one of the sides,  oretty well straight off the printer and with all the support pips not fully cleaned off.  I also gave it a quick scoosh of Halford's Grey Primer to get better pictures - not a very good coat since it was the last day of the storms which wasn't really conducive to spraying.

 

 

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I'm very happy that the sides are not bowing and I've taken no special measures to stop bowing while cleaning and curing.    The print is designed to take a 1.6mm brass floor - shown right - to get the weight of the body up from single figure grams to 44 grams.

 

 

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...and a shot of the two married together.

 

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You can also see some printer ridges on the inside - this is due to the body sides being tapered from 1.2mm thick at the bottom to 0.6mm thick at the top.   This has been the main compromise to finish up with a good body print.   It only shows up with the top angle being about 0.4mm wider than it should be.  Otherwise I managed to get everything close to scale on the outside.

 

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I won't manage to get to the AGM tomorrow but I've sent four samples up to Paul and he will have them on his parts stand for comment.

 

And I'm working on the top flap door version right now.  I know that was the most popular version when Alan Gibson's kits were available.

 

The body is designed to go on Justin Newtitt's underframe (Rumney Models)

 

Jim.

 

Edited by flubrush
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25 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

Paging @MikeOxon to this thread, who has done some fantastic broad gauge prints in 4mm which may be applicable.

Thank you for the kind remark.  I have been exploring the possibilities of using a basic FDM printer to crate parts for models.  I believe that 3D printing really comes into its own for those working in scales that do not received such wide-spread support from the trade.  I have been pleasantly surprised by the ability of a simple printer like mine to create detailed components.

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  • 1 month later...

Having done the non-top door version of the mineral,  I moved on to the more popular top door version.   I had a bit of a fight with Solid Edge Assembly,  but got there in the end.

 

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It's "sort-of" cleaned up from the support pips but could do with a bit more cleaning up.

 

Jim.

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Last night I had a go at reprinting the MW I class.   Looks OK from the top but the footplate and saddle are warped at the side.

 

Any clues.   The only "lever" I can think to pull is the exposure time.  But will this increase or decrease the risk of warping?  There are plenty of supports so not sure that is the issue?

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