simmo009 Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 Hi. I am having an issue with a couple of Hornby locomotives, namely R055 2-6-4T Class 4P and R852 2-6-0 Ivatt Class 2. I have disassembled them for service and maintenance. The chassis are cleaned and lubricated, checked for correct geometry and smooth movement, checked for short circuits. All good. The motors (X03 & X04 respectively) cleaned and lubricated, new brushes fitted, tested. Both are without fault. I then put the motor back in the chassis, and again check for shorts. Still no problems. The whole is then tested with the chassis suspended so there is no friction. The motors run and the wheels turn. I then put them on track for a final check before refitting the body, and neither does much of anything. Best is a slight hum from the motor. Can anyone shed any light on this? Did I miss something? Any / all suggestions welcome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted November 26, 2021 Share Posted November 26, 2021 Sounds as if the motors are weakening and have sufficient power output to drive the locomotives when running free but insufficient to move their weight when on the track. Scalespeed.co.uk offer a refurbishment service. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted November 26, 2021 Share Posted November 26, 2021 I had this exactly. It was the pick ups. Both pinged away from the wheel rims enough to a) not collect current and b) was sticking into the rim of one wheel to prevent movement. All was fine after a tweak. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2021 36 minutes ago, Going Spare said: . Scalespeed.co.uk offer a refurbishment service. As do I www.redgatemodels.co.uk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted November 26, 2021 Author Share Posted November 26, 2021 (edited) I must admit that the magnet in the 2MT feels weaker than that in the 4P. All of the pick ups are correctly adjusted and are not fouling the wheels. Note in original post I stated that the chassis runs well without the motor, and it runs fine off track with the motor fitted. I will ask around my club if anyone has a remagnetizer, if not I may well be sending a package to Mansfield. Thanks guys. Edited November 26, 2021 by simmo009 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted November 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2021 Pop me a pm or email when you are ready Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Did you fix it. I wonder if you tested it with wires onto the wheels? If not the pick ups or even the insulated sleeve under the wrong brush could be the cause. Having a wheel set in backwards can stop several locos, old Hornby A3s, B12s etc Airfix 61XX and the like with one live and one insulated wheel per bogie axle, anything with a keeper plate holding the driving wheels in one driving axle can get put in the wrong way round. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simmo009 Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 So, I took the plunge and ordered a magnetizer from Ronald Dodd. What a piece of kit. It has definitely helped these locomotives, and I will now be reinvigorating all of my stable over Christmas. But this actually wasn't the problem. Ivatt - the problem only manifested with the body on. I found a small piece of wire insulation had worn away, and was causing a short when the body was fitted, pushing the wire against the motor frame. A new piece of slightly longer wire was fitted and now as good as new. 4P - all was good as you put wheels on the track from the front bogie backwards. As more wheels touched the track, still good until the last axle in the rear pony touched down and it stopped. Lifting the rear axle brought it back to life. I found that the flanges on the rear wheels were just touching the coupling frame, and this was causing a short. Replaced rear metal coupling with a plastic one from the spares bin, and job's a good 'un. Thanks to all who pitched in. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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