New Hornby spamcans

[sagaguy]

Has anyone figured out a way to reattach the brake rigging to these locomotives.Beautiful models but oh so delicate.

 

                                    Ray.

Edited December 19, 2021 by sagaguy

[Lee-H]

I think the simple answer is super glue. The more fiddly option is using track pins. I’ve had the same problem myself and seen the topic covered elsewhere on this site. You would think Hornby would have produced a better fixing method after all these years.

[Bernard Lamb]

You might need one of the special purpose adhesives made by the likes of Zap as I have found that most general purpose products do not like the plastic that Hornby use. I had the same problem with the steps on the buffers.

Bernard

[sagaguy]

I also had problem with the tender steps which meant I had to make a new one from n/silver wire.

[sagaguy]

Continuing the saga of these beautiful models although very delicate,the only way of reattaching the brake pull rods.0.5mm drill in a pin chuck to drill the hangers and the bosses on the pull rods,fit 0.5mm n/silver wire and a touch of super glue on the pins and hangers.

Edited December 21, 2021 by sagaguy

[DCB]

You could leave it off.  Ours shed its brake gear and derailed the following Dapol Mogul. Stuck it back on with Evo Stick PVC Pipe weld applied with a pointy thing.  The MN set new standards for awful nameplates. Far inferior to the 2003 rebuilt MN  and even if they were the wrong colour at least you could read 1950s Triang name plates...

[cypherman]

Hi all.

I had one of these for about a week. Took it back as it kept derailing on all my points and got a refund . I have a 2003 MN and a Triang BB which both run with out a problem.

[sagaguy]

I hate bits that fall off,got it back on in the end.

 

                      Ray.

[cypherman]

 

Hi all.To be honest if I really wanted another streamlined Southern pacific it would have to be the Wrenn one. Things do not fall of them and they seem to go on for ever and are basically indistructable.

[DCB]

16 hours ago, cypherman said:

 

Hi all.To be honest if I really wanted another streamlined Southern pacific it would have to be the Wrenn one. Things do not fall of them and they seem to go on for ever and are basically indistructable.

Don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but the Wrenn Spam is the one H/D Wrenn loco we have with reliability issues.  The chassis is basically the 2-6-4 Tank but the "Thin" side of the chassis by the worm wheel, has been thickened up which means the worm can only engage one side of the worm wheel, ours stripped the teeth off one side of its worm wheel as a result, after only twenty years service.  No spare was available but the 2-6-4 Tank worm wheel fits and with a lot of filing and adding spacing washers its now all in line, but  its a poor show when the Triang BoB from 1960 ish is still going strong. Oh and it has the closest coupled tender.  One good thing about the Hornby MN is it teaches you to solder bits of wire together to make replacement steps when they fall off.  Steel wire is best. That way a magnet wagon can retrieve them when they too fall off.

[cypherman]

20 hours ago, DCB said:

Don't want to dampen your enthusiasm, but the Wrenn Spam is the one H/D Wrenn loco we have with reliability issues.  The chassis is basically the 2-6-4 Tank but the "Thin" side of the chassis by the worm wheel, has been thickened up which means the worm can only engage one side of the worm wheel, ours stripped the teeth off one side of its worm wheel as a result, after only twenty years service.  No spare was available but the 2-6-4 Tank worm wheel fits and with a lot of filing and adding spacing washers its now all in line, but  its a poor show when the Triang BoB from 1960 ish is still going strong. Oh and it has the closest coupled tender.  One good thing about the Hornby MN is it teaches you to solder bits of wire together to make replacement steps when they fall off.  Steel wire is best. That way a magnet wagon can retrieve them when they too fall off.

Hi DCB,

Does this mean that you could replace the chassis with a 2-6-4 one. Once you have swapped the wheels over.

[DCB]

1 hour ago, cypherman said:

Hi DCB,

Does this mean that you could replace the chassis with a 2-6-4 one. Once you have swapped the wheels over.

Hi    No The worm wheel which was a spare which looked identical to the one in my 2-6-4T fitted despite seemingly having a different part number.   However the 2-6-4T  front end is very different and axle hole for the leading driver is further back and the middle has a slot, but the armature area looked very similar when I compared them, The early 0-6-2T, Duchess and A4 are all different and different from each other.  I suspect the armatures and bearings, maybe also the pole pieces interchange, our  WC is a 5 pole, not sure I have ever seen a 5 Pole 2-6-4T.  I have a  2-6-4T with a Deltic ring magnet which I hope is unique!

The WC has a sprung centre axle for better pickup etc and flanged centre wheels.

I find all these chassis benefit from spacing washers to limit sideplay on the driven axle and keep the worm wheel centred on the worm but the WCVis the only chassis I have had to file to achieve this.
Christmas greetings.

[John Tomlinson]

On 22/12/2021 at 23:29, sagaguy said:

I hate bits that fall off,got it back on in the end.

 

                      Ray.

 

FWIW I've used a dab of superglue to fix the brake rigging on all my Hornby MN/ BB/ WC's. Seems to work OK, though rough handling can make them fall off.

 

Like you I loathe things falling off, and equally am very keen to apply the contents of detailing packs, as I think they add a lot. It was all a lot easier when we were kids!

 

John.