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'Ballamoddey' - 1937 on the Mid Sodor Railway


Tom F
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5 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

It is with a jewellers piercing saw as I mentioned above - need to add the link wires

 

cut rail.jpg

cut sleepers.jpg

Ah, now I see it from above, you can cut and leave two supports for each rail segment.

Paul.

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1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:


Tom the ‘crazy track’ 12” rad point doesn’t have the rails split at the frog so the blue jumpers will cause a short unless you cut the rails where the orange line is too. I agree it’s a bit confusing as the points are from different eras design wise!

Just powering the frog from the switch still has its advantages in reliability if you just leave off the blue jumpers. 

I’m a sucker for punishment and cut the rails very carefully with a small slitting disc, (others use a piercing saw), and protect the outer rails with card but you have to go careful so you don’t get too much heat and melt the chairs holding the rail ;) 

885A6B60-3384-4916-9206-C23D8A99E1FA.jpeg.ce2dfe4e3ce45bf110fa96d469ac04f1.jpeg


Morning Paul

 

Ill be honest, it’s still confusing me (I really I’m a bit thick with all this).

 

I’m very tempted to leave the point as is and avoid any cutting.

 

I would still like it powered and rely on point blades, so what should be wiring exactly? Just the green frog wire?

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Yes if you keep the point as supplied then just a wire from whatever you use to switch the supply to the frog. The cut and new link method seeks to overcome the possibility of shorts arising between the inactive switch rail and stock rail as well as overcoming any issues arising from the active switch rail failing to make an electrical contact with the stock rail which Peco points as supplied rely on

 

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8 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

Yes if you keep the point as supplied then just a wire from whatever you use to switch the supply to the frog. The cut and new link method seeks to overcome the possibility of shorts arising between the inactive switch rail and stock rail as well as overcoming any issues arising from the active switch rail failing to make an electrical contact with the stock rail which Peco points as supplied rely on

 


Thanks Butler 

 

I just don’t want to get into a mess requiring buying new point work.

 

The larger point seems easier to deal with.

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1 hour ago, PaulRhB said:


Tom the ‘crazy track’ 12” rad point doesn’t have the rails split at the frog so the blue jumpers will cause a short unless you cut the rails where the orange line is too. I agree it’s a bit confusing as the points are from different eras design wise!

Just powering the frog from the switch still has its advantages in reliability if you just leave off the blue jumpers. 

I’m a sucker for punishment and cut the rails very carefully with a small slitting disc, (others use a piercing saw), and protect the outer rails with card but you have to go careful so you don’t get too much heat and melt the chairs holding the rail ;) 

885A6B60-3384-4916-9206-C23D8A99E1FA.jpeg.ce2dfe4e3ce45bf110fa96d469ac04f1.jpeg


Ah I understand now. Right I’ll give that a go today! I’d forgot I’d need the cut in the track too.

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If the rail seems loose after cutting I just drop a bit of thin superglue in off a cocktail stick and it all goes solid. 
It is fiddly but it just improves reliability that extra little bit on a show layout and means it usually works first time even after months in store. Nothing worse than stress the morning of a show ;) 

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Thanks for all the feedback and advice. It’s greatly appreciated.
 

Some tweaks to the track plan now utilising a Y point which works better.

 

Line to the goods shed bearing off to the left, to the right at an angle, the coal line. I was very much inspired by the angle of the coal line at Beddgellert on the old Welsh Highland

7670D239-CB4D-4883-9132-476890269363.jpeg.5f4b47d72c9124d4f1b47ac1d02076fb.jpeg

 

I am now thinking ahead to wiring the entire layout (I’ve just about got my head around the points).

 

The layout will be analogue. I’ll need three isolating sections, both lines making up the loop and the sidings. Both sidings can be one isolating section. I’ve never done isolating sections, so this will require some help.

 

Here is the plan:

407234269_Screenshot2021-12-31at16_51_59.png.44a3a719a8d9b57799aba3b59bb7797d.png

Edited by Tom F
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I can't believe I let this pass me by Mr Tom, Scaca Fell is frankly a piece of art not just a model so I eagerly await what you produce for Ballamoddy with such rugged landscape in that part of the Reverend's world, same goes for the locos of a line about to hit hard times which you'll no doubt weather beautifully.

 

Watching with interest, Alec

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1 hour ago, Tom F said:

Some photos from today's lovely trip up the Eskdale valley.

 

IMG_2588.jpg.46b5339a523c68d3e6ab2206ce6d17f8.jpg

 

IMG_2597.jpg.29cf0c23a26f9d9e9f865ad79e680033.jpg

 

IMG_2605.jpg.383ef085ebc7de584a9d140a8d8be21f.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_2626.jpg

Now that would make a nice model... (one of my might-but-probably-never-will projects is Hythe, RH&DR, in the early 1960s when we first visited it).

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Hi Tom!

 

Considering the calibre of modelling on your last project I’m very much looking forward to the progress on this new one.

 

I may be a bit late to the party but I might offer my own findings. I used the wire-in-tube method on my layout and found it very difficult to find the right switches. 
 

In the end I settled with Elaine’s Emporium for their slide switches. Jewellery wire was threaded through small plastic tubing and into the point. The excess was drilled through the switch and then wrapped around the switch. It looks crude but having since done the scenics and foliage it looks fine.

 

05CEA64F-A611-4F2A-97EE-4DF108A8E585.jpeg.74e5e15080e3705595124fc49a39c311.jpeg

 

14CD6D31-E5DE-44D6-B231-F89F8AE59761.jpeg.633075f13469e7cb3a5bad20e24d528f.jpeg

 

Wiring was simply done, as per the wiring diagrams in this thread, made to change the polarity of the frog and hey presto, it worked.

 

It’s great to see more modeller’s using this method, as when I initially did some research, I couldn’t find many methods of ways to do it!

 

Sorry for the long post!

 

Happy Modelling! And New Year!

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13 hours ago, LDM34046 said:

Hi Tom!

 

Considering the calibre of modelling on your last project I’m very much looking forward to the progress on this new one.

 

I may be a bit late to the party but I might offer my own findings. I used the wire-in-tube method on my layout and found it very difficult to find the right switches. 
 

In the end I settled with Elaine’s Emporium for their slide switches. Jewellery wire was threaded through small plastic tubing and into the point. The excess was drilled through the switch and then wrapped around the switch. It looks crude but having since done the scenics and foliage it looks fine.

 

05CEA64F-A611-4F2A-97EE-4DF108A8E585.jpeg.74e5e15080e3705595124fc49a39c311.jpeg

 

14CD6D31-E5DE-44D6-B231-F89F8AE59761.jpeg.633075f13469e7cb3a5bad20e24d528f.jpeg

 

Wiring was simply done, as per the wiring diagrams in this thread, made to change the polarity of the frog and hey presto, it worked.

 

It’s great to see more modeller’s using this method, as when I initially did some research, I couldn’t find many methods of ways to do it!

 

Sorry for the long post!

 

Happy Modelling! And New Year!

 

That's really useful! Yes thank you.

I've ordered some wire from Eileens (the switches look very similar to the ones I've ordered from amazon, so hopefully we should be ok).

 

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54 minutes ago, NeilHB said:

Lovely work Tom, they look very good.


Thanks Neil. It is making me chuckle how much smaller 'Cora' is than the Glyn Valley and Welsh Highland van!

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10 hours ago, Tom F said:


Thanks Neil. It is making me chuckle how much smaller 'Cora' is than the Glyn Valley and Welsh Highland van!


I’d never realised before just how much of a size difference there is between them - ‘Cora’ really is dainty! 

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1 hour ago, JustinDean said:

Have you made any progress with your point actuation and wiring yet @Tom F?

 

Jay

 

My friend @Quarryscapes is in the process of making me a wiring diagram for the layout. I have the wire in a tube on order from Eileen's Emporium but it hasn't arrived yet.

I'm probably going to leave the point wiring until next weekend. My aim this week on an evening, is to make a start adding the greenwich couplings to the wagon stock I've made. I really also need to make a start on putting together loco 'No.4' too in the next few weeks. :) 

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