Siphon G diagram O.11 outside frame in 4mm

[macgeordie]

I've been working on this kit for quite some time now, it's progressing well but like most of us, 'Life' keeps getting in the way.

Having already done kits for the O.33 and O.62 a lot of the development was already done so I thought the O.11 would be a nice addition. As the O.11 is outside framed I had to make the sides from three layers of brass which adds to the cost but I'm quite pleased at the way it has come out. 

Here are a couple of photos of the first test build.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The O.11 has a scissor gangway rather than the later suspended gangway so I decided to make it operational and it works well.

 

The second test build is nearly finished so here are a few photos of the build up of the sides.

 

 

 

Some of the detailing parts in place.

 

 

Roof gas lighting detail.

 

 

 

 

A section of the underframe with the gas tanks for the lighting.

 

 

 

I'll make a start on the next build during the week and post a few photos as the build progresses.

 

Ian

Edited April 1, 2022 by macgeordie
Replaced missing image.

[Enterprisingwestern]

Phew, too old for me!

 

Mike.

[The Fatadder]

Very nice, 

Is construction of those multiple part sides realistic without the use of an RSU?

 

Will be interested in one (maybe two) to replace my Hornby ones 

[macgeordie]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

Very nice, 

Is construction of those multiple part sides realistic without the use of an RSU?

 

 

It's certainly easier with an RSU but it's not essential. You start by tinning the back of the outer layer then hold it against the centre layer with some strong clips. Alignment can be ensured by putting some 0.3mm wire through the holes for the door handles. Apply the iron along the edges of the two layers along the top and bottom edges and then the sloping sections and they will be sweated together. Repeat the procedure by attaching the assembled pieces to the van side proper in the same way. The sections are further held together when the door handles and hinges are soldered in place as solder will flow through the hole as the parts are fixed. The detailing parts can be attached with an RSU or simply fixed in place with Superglue when all of the soldering is complete.

[57xx]

3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

Phew, too old for me!

 

 

Fortunately not too old for me.

 

Looking good Ian, look forward to the build pics.

[Mark Hamlin]

Very tasty Ian. Count me in for at least 1. I can now give up on trying to update the under frame on an old one

[7821]

yes please Ian

[Denbridge]

Oooh, please put my name down for at least one kit

[Down_Under]

Very nice Ian. Put me down for two.

 

James

[macgeordie]

Gents

I have put the names of those who have requested one of these kits so far on the list but if anybody else want to go onto the list please message me as it is much easier for me to keep track that way.

It will be a while before I release the kit as there are a few little niggles that still need sorting out and I won't release anything until I am happy myself that everything goes together well. Obviously that means new tools and test etches which takes a bit of time.

 

Ian

[The Fatadder]

Going to be well worth the wait from the looks of it!

[Brinkly]

Very nice, Ian. Very nice indeed. 

 

All the best,

Nick

[macgeordie]

After the first of my posts above I had a message from one of our Forum members who knows a lot more about things GWR than I do who told me that the early Siphons (including the O.11) had deeper truss bars (i.e. longer Queen posts) than the later vans and that the brake cross shaft sits above the truss bar rather than below it as on the later vans. I had based the chassis for this one on the O.33 and O.62 vans which I have already produced so a change was needed. After studying as many photos and drawings that I could find I came to the conclusion that the Queen posts need to be 6" (2mm) longer. 

I decided to start on the chassis for this build first and modify the relevant parts to accommodate the changes required and alter the drawings to suit.

 

These are the original parts

 

These are the modified parts with the new Queen posts in place.

 

 

I had to adjust the lengths of the V hangers as well and solder them back into place

 

 

One other thing I am going to change before I send off for another test etch is the solebars. Currently they have a load of rivets which need to be pressed out which is frankly a pain if you don't have a good rivet punch such as the GW models one, but even with that it is still a slow job. I have decided to add an etched overlay with the rivet detail etched onto it to simplify the job as I have done on a number of my other kits.

These are the original solebars which I have had to use for this model build. An overlay also has the added advantage that it hides the relieving slots needed to allow the lip of the solebar to be folded up.

 

 

I'll post more photos as the build progresses.

 

Ian

 

Edited January 13, 2022 by macgeordie
Typo corrected

[macgeordie]

I've managed to get a bit more done, the solebar footsteps are now in place. 

 

 

I've also fitted the gas cylinders and the little filler valve along with a couple of bits of 0.7mm wire to represent the pipes coming out of the end of the cylinders.

 

 

and finally the brake vacuum cylinders are fitted.

 

 

Ian

[macgeordie]

The bogies are now assembled, the castings are from MJT. I've fitted Hornby wheels to this one simply because they were sitting on my workbench. Alan Gibson wheels are a better choice, especially for those modelling in EM or P4.

 

 

This is the bogie etch

 

 

 

The brake operating mechanism is all in place

 

 

And finally the buffer beam overlay with the extra steps is fitted. This effectively completes the chassis so I'll get another tool made and a test etch with the changes which have gone into this one.

 

 

I'll assemble the body of the van over the next week or two and post the photos as it progresses. Once I get the new chassis etch back I'll build that and if all is well I will release the kit for those who have requested one.

 

Ian

[macgeordie]

I've managed to get a bit of work done on the body of the van today.

 

These are the parts which have to be assembled although the van ends and partitions are not needed till later.

 

 

The outer layer has to be tinned on the back around the outer edges and on the sloping sections before clipping it to the centre layer of the sandwich. Alignment is achieved by putting some pieces 0.3mm wire through a few of the door handle holes. If you look carefully you can just make them out.

 

 

Solder around all of the edges and along the sloping sections with plenty of liquid flux. If you have an RSU you can use that but this was done with a conventional iron and is just as easy.

 

 

The third layer which is actually the van side proper is attached in the same way.

 

 

The only place you don't want any solder is along the vertical edge where the van end will eventually sit or it will be difficult to fit the end neatly.

 

 

I'll try to get a bit more done tomorrow, but 'Life' keeps getting in the way. The next job is to fit all of the detailing parts as shown in one of the photos in the first post of the thread. I have an RSU so I will use that to fit them. If you don't have an RSU they are best left until all the soldering is complete on the body then fit them using superglue.

 

Ian

Edited January 25, 2022 by macgeordie

[BMS]

If poss, I'd like one,please

[The Fatadder]

Will add some metal bulldog clips to the shopping list, oddly enough I dont think the plastic clams I currently use are going to be much help when soldering!

 

(Looking again at the kit reminds me that I really must get my existing Hornby one on the Classifieds in advance of purchasing its replacement...)

[macgeordie]

2 hours ago, BMS said:

If poss, I'd like one,please

 

You have mail.

 

Ian

[macgeordie]

3 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Will add some metal bulldog clips to the shopping list, oddly enough I dont think the plastic clams I currently use are going to be much help when soldering!

 

(Looking again at the kit reminds me that I really must get my existing Hornby one on the Classifieds in advance of purchasing its replacement...)

Get the Bulldog Clips from Ebay, they are very cheap. Just search for Bulldog Clip Letter Clip 22 millimetre. 

[macgeordie]

Most of the detailing parts are now fitted to the body sides.

 

 

The bodywork has been assembled

 

 

The roof rain strips are in place and the holes drilled ready for the gas lamp fittings etc. I fitted the strips with the RSU but it is possible to sweat them on. The other alternative is to use superglue after all of the soldering work is finished.

 

 

Next job is to attach the roof to the body and then fit the gas lamps and piping.

 

Ian

[roythebus1]

This looks remarkably similar to an etched kit I bought bak in 1973, probably Kemilway, made by Tony Dyer who worked at the Kings Cross model shop at the time. He done the inside and outside frame versions. I suspect I sold mine many years ago. I don't think I ever finished them as the then new "superglue" went off too quickly and my soldering wasn't up to scratch then.

 

I don't know what happened to the artwork for his efforts.

 

I know he used ABS cast metal bogies. Made by the late Adrian Swain these were superb castings and may still be available from whoever took over his range.

Edited January 31, 2022 by roythebus1

[macgeordie]

Hi Roy

 

I know of three versions of these vans, all dating from the 1970's. Kemilway, George Alan and Mallard. I have built all of them for a friend of mine who I believe purchased them mainly from Ebay. The kits were superb for the time but are not really up to the standard of modern kits unless you add a lot of your own detailing, which I did for my friends kits. Here are a few photos.

 

 This the George Alan version

 

 

 

These are a batch of vans I made with the O.11 at the far end.

 

 

This one is the Mallard models version. The corridor connection on this one is the Roxey models version.

 

 

 

I've done more work on the test build, the roof is on and the roof fittings are in place. I'll post more photos later today.

 

Ian

 

Edited February 1, 2022 by macgeordie
Typo corrected

[Asterix2012]

2 hours ago, macgeordie said:

Hi Roy

 

I know of three versions of these vans, all dating from the 1970's. Kemilway, George Alan and Mallard. I have built all of them for a friend of mine who I believe purchased them mainly from Ebay. The kits were superb for the time but are not really up to the standard of modern kits unless you add a lot of your own detailing, which I did for my friends kits. Here are a few photos.

 

 This the George Alan version

 

 

 

These are a batch of vans I made with the O.11 at the far end.

 

 

This one is the Mallard models version. The corridor connection on this one is the Roxey models version.

 

 

 

I've done more work on the test build, the roof is on and the roof fittings are in place. I'll post more photos later today.

 

Ian

 

There is a kit by George Alan on eBay just now for inside and outside framed siphon G

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GW-Siphon-G-etched-brass-kit-white-metal-bogies-fittings-New-superb-rare-/203812092469?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
 

[macgeordie]

49 minutes ago, Asterix2012 said:

There is a kit by George Alan on eBay just now for inside and outside framed siphon G

 

That's the same as the one I have built which is the first photo in the post above. Take a good look at the photos on Ebay and you will see what I mean about needing to add your own details. I had to supply new bogies, new truss bars, new corridor connections and loads of small items. All you really get is the basic body shell and a basic chassis. The kit shown is part built, the body assembly is one piece and has already been folded up. It looks like whoever bought it way back when started it and gave up on it. The best thing about that kit was the cast buffers which are oval and really nice, nobody does those now as far as I have been able to tell, I have only found round ones with the GWR square shank body.