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How to dissolve old brown glue?


Virgil
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I have a badly put together K's kit that needs breaking down into its component parts and rebuilding but is held together with hard brown glue, probably applied many years ago.

I have tried immersing the loco and simmering for half an hour in boiling water but without success.

Does anyone know of a solvent that will dissolve this type of glue please?

 

fullsizeoutput_959.jpeg

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If you are really unlucky, that might be cascamite. If so, long-term soaking in water might work, but it is utterly impervious to all sorts of chemicals that dissolve other glues, and even the manufacturer says that the only way to remove it is "by mechanical means".

 

 

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12 minutes ago, Nearholmer said:

If you are really unlucky, that might be cascamite. If so, long-term soaking in water might work, but it is utterly impervious to all sorts of chemicals that dissolve other glues, and even the manufacturer says that the only way to remove it is "by mechanical means".

 

 

Oh dear, I have the awful feeling that you might be right as so far paint stripper appears to be taking its time.

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1 hour ago, Virgil said:

I have a badly put together K's kit that needs breaking down into its component parts and rebuilding but is held together with hard brown glue, probably applied many years ago.

I have tried immersing the loco and simmering for half an hour in boiling water but without success.

Does anyone know of a solvent that will dissolve this type of glue please?

 

fullsizeoutput_959.jpeg

 

If it's a glue based on French polish, a soak in methylated spirits may work.

 

If, however, it has a slightly 'grainy / gritty' texture, it could be a two-part epoxy or Cascamite - in which case, I haven't a clue; sorry.

 

CJI.

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All four steps are off now as is the chimney after being submerged in cold water all night,so some progress has been achieved.

Thanks for all suggestions received, it looks very promising.

Edited by Virgil
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As an aside to this topic, I do think that K’s kits are underrated by the hard core of experienced modellers. I actually think that the mouldings and wheels are excellent and motors ok if you get a good one.

However I had to laugh at the moulded detail on the chimney cap of this 57xx, it’s clearly a thumbprint of the person that moulded it! 

26C11E34-D3D9-4E5E-B588-941EF0FB90BD.jpeg

Edited by Virgil
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I must admit, I've never heard of anyone using Cascamite for loco kit assembly before, but in any case, what a nightmare you're having to remove whatever it is. Watching with interest to see if the assorted suggestions work.

 

I suppose a modern equivalent might be "Gorilla Glue" - scary thought... :o

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2 hours ago, Virgil said:

As an aside to this topic, I do think that K’s kits are underrated by the hard core of experienced modellers. I actually think that the mouldings and wheels are excellent and motors ok if you get a good one.

However I had to laugh at the moulded detail on the chimney cap of this 57xx, it’s clearly a thumbprint of the person that moulded it! 

26C11E34-D3D9-4E5E-B588-941EF0FB90BD.jpeg

 

Virgil

 

I do agree with you, the smaller kits are quite easy to work with, easy to upgrade, but their wheels, motors age gears are awful when compared to what is available these days. I enjoy building the bodies, chassis less so. If I do decide to use their chassis, I change the wheels, gears and motors, however an etched chassis takes it to the next level

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I've recently discovered 3 or 4 Ks Black fives in my collection that I thought I'd lost. One has an old brass chassis and MW005 motor, the others have the later Ks etched chassis and vale gear, brake detail and Kean Portescap motors. all are unfinished but missing some parts. hopefully I'll find the missing parts and get them finished one day! Maybe use 1 to make the bits for the others? Detail and dimension wise they compare very well with the modern Hornby china equivalents. there'se detail variations, but then there was on the prototype. And they're so heavy they ought to pull a house down1 Maybe too heavy for modern finescale track? but I built them all with low melt solder so ought to come apart if ever I need to dismantle them. :)

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12 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

I've recently discovered 3 or 4 Ks Black fives in my collection that I thought I'd lost. One has an old brass chassis and MW005 motor, the others have the later Ks etched chassis and vale gear, brake detail and Kean Portescap motors. all are unfinished but missing some parts. hopefully I'll find the missing parts and get them finished one day! Maybe use 1 to make the bits for the others? Detail and dimension wise they compare very well with the modern Hornby china equivalents. there'se detail variations, but then there was on the prototype. And they're so heavy they ought to pull a house down1 Maybe too heavy for modern finescale track? but I built them all with low melt solder so ought to come apart if ever I need to dismantle them. :)

 

If its an etched (simple style) chassis its a later version sold by NuCast, if etched valve gear and a brass bar type chassis then it's a K's kit. Unless that is, the etched chassis is highly detailed, then it will be something like a Perseverance or similar kit

 

The black 5's are from memory one of the harder kits to build, I think mainly down to the chassis being a bit old school. Comet do a decent chassis in their range for it and I think its a loco they produce as a full kit and castings are available separately, via Wizard models. Small parts should be available from Wizard models in their loco spares section, 

Edited by hayfield
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Slowly but surely and the footplate and toolboxes are free. The main body is still a solid lump along with the disfiguring glue round the handrail knobs and smoke box front but I’m now sure that it’ll all come good.

I’m very glad to have removed the chimney as it was canted over at a ridiculous angle.

Thanks for your advice on this, I’m sure that the end result will be well worth the rebuild.

 

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The loco is now fully disassembled after judicious and careful pressure applied to the main body and handrail knobs.

The continued soaking in water clearly worked though slowly and the water in the ice cream container is showing a brownish tinge. Success at last!

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