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30801

Hachette Flying Scotsman

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Right then. Time to restart my Flying Scotsman thread. I originally started this on old RMWeb but that thread seems to have vanished.. I tried putting it in a blog on here, but I don't get on with the blog format so I'll repost it all here.

 

Progress will seem really fast until I catch up with my current progress where my usual glacial pace will become apparent.

 

So. Starting off with the contents of my old thread.

 

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Here we go. A startlingly inappropriate kit for a beginner to loco building.....

 

There's a lot of catching up to do so starting with last December.

This is the first solder of the kit. I'm soldering rather than superglueing like the instructions say to. Even I can tell superglue isn't going to work.

Actually,, I did mend an Austin Allegro engine mount with superglue and it held for the year I had it for....

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And here it is. The cab with completely wrong windows The instructions in issue one were wrong....

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Made another cab (I got 4 issue ones) and also tried making some rivet detail from cut down pins. Still not right though. The frames look dreadful no matter which way round you stick them.

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Here we go with the third cab. This time I bought some rivets from Scale Hardware and filed down the frames as suggested by another RMwebber.

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Now it looks half decent.

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Now let's have a look at the chassis.

The idea here is that it fixes together rigidly enough so that it's difficult to get it out of alignment.

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Here it is. It seems to sit flat on a glass table so it's probably OK.

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Here's the cartazzi truck.

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And with some castings attached. With Araldite since I still haven't tried low melt solder yet...

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Here's the zamak(?) footplate plonked on the chassis.

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This is the tender chassis neatly demonstrating one of the disadvantages of getting bits sent through the post...

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It went together well enough though.

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Skipping forward to when I got some wheels it runs quite smoothly.

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The big difference between this kit and the DJH original is the use of plastic. Here's the first of the plastic. The cab roof.

The only other plastic kits I've built have been from Airfix. This stuff is a lot better.

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Here's the cab, now with handrails posed on the chassis.

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Comedy interlude. Some decals. Won't be needing them for a while....

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Now for the bigie. The plastic boiler. Looks good to me.

Those bits of wire are what Hachette expect me to make rivets out of.

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Nuts to that! I still had loads left over from the cab.

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Looking loco shaped.

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This is the plastic A3 backhead that was initially supplied.

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This is it's whitemetal replacement.

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And some stuff to stick to it.

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Like this.

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And there we are. Eleven months later. Hachette had some trouble initially accepting my payment so my issues are a little behind. I'm only up to #33.

 

Finally got round to doing a bit more....

Stuck the bits to the backhead. Rather than using the supplied brass wire and painting it I stripped down some copper cable and used that instead.

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Guard irons and some brackets fitted to the chassis along with another pair of drivers.

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Here we go with the coupling rods.

 

First off made a horlicks of this one. I picked up the mag with instructions for the other side and ended up soldering it back to front.

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Some unsoldering later....

 

My expensive jig.

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All soldered up.

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And cleaned.

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Here we go with the tender brakes. The instructions tell you fit the brakes and line them up to the wheels. I figured using the rod on the etch as jig might save some trouble later. Superglued these. I still haven't tried low temperature soldering yet.

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The rods were soldered to the brakes using regular solder. Quickly.

The water scoop is also on now. It's a solid casting. Some people have carefully hollowed theirs out. I didn't. By the time the frames are on it's not going to be that visible anyway.

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OK. Time I did some more of this.

 

Out of the box, the footplate fouls the rear drivers. To fix this 2mm needs to be trimmed from the front of the frames.

The guard irons need to come off. Also the splashers since they apparently are going to foul the wheels as well.

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Quite a bit of the footplate still needed to be filed away before the wheels would turn and ther'd be no danger of them shorting

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Now the footplate sits nicely on the chassis and all the wheels go round too!

 

 

Now the footplate's been moved back and the wheels go round I can attach the splashers. This picture's a little off-centre but the splashers do sit directly above the wheel centres.

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A little bit more of the valve gear laminated...

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Right then. Here are the parts of the front bogie laid out.

One etch folds up to make the basic structure. The other has some side detail with etched rivets.

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The instructions would have you laminating the sides before the issue containing the bushes has arrived. I just used the bushes to align the parts while laminating which seemed a little more sane.

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And the trailing bogie. The wheel weights are on this etch too.

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There we are. A full complement of wheels. All I need to do now is get some Slaters axles so the don't al wobble drunkenly and then I can fit the brakes.

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A little bit more. Fitting the brakes and rodding.

 

As I did with the tender I used the rodding to position the brakes instead of doing it partwork fashion and sticking the brakes on first and tring to get the rodding to fit afterwards.

Still wimped out of soldering white metal and used epoxy to fix the brakes to the frames and solder on the rodding.

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I think I have the rods a bit close to the centre here...

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Here's the tender body. It's plastic with a white metal support. No solder here!

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The frames can be soldered though :)

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Don't look at the horrible soldering. I was too lazy to get the big iron out and now I'll have to clean that up....

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Beading around the tender is etched brass glued on.

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The results of all that laminating. I got sooo fed up of laminating....

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This is something I put off doing for a long time. The frames needed grinding back so that the wheels can go round.

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See, there's room for splashers and everything!

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Making a start on screwing the valve gear together

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Soldering the tender frames on. I was bold here and soldered them on with a 40 watt iron. Happily no plastic melted!

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Confident of soldering round plastic I soldered the rest of the tender chassis as well

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Back to gluing again...

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I wasn't sure how the solder would take to the blocks that form the inner part of the cylinders. The bits you can see are white metal but the stuff inside is something else. So the outer parts of the cylinders are glued on.

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The front buffer beam. Complete with old-school rivets

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I attached it to the footplate with copious gobs of epoxy

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Well done for sticking at it, and to all the others persevering through this build. Interesting to see the build through your photos, I will be keeping an eye on this to see how it turns out.

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I very interesting thread. Keep the pictures coming please.

 

Genuine questions, so don't be insulted. Is this the kit offered last year in kit form/monthly magazine format? If so, what scale is it?

 

Either way, she looks great already.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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Genuine questions, so don't be insulted. Is this the kit offered last year in kit form/monthly magazine format? If so, what scale is it?

Hi. Yes, it is the part work model. It's basically the DJH O gauge A1 model tweaked for mass-production.

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Fair play to you.

 

I started collecting the balsa wood spitfire about 5 years, month by month. Dunno what the end result is like, because I still have a pile of balsa wood. I just never got round to building it!

 

It was for this reason I didn't bother with the Flying Scotsman model. Wish i had now though!.....rolleyes.gif

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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The tender is much improved by the addition of axle boxes.

The rest of the stuff is just plonked there to see how well it fits together. Some fettling is required as cramming it all in there twists things and makes the tender wobble on its wheels.

 

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Hi 30801, thanks for posting your progress.

I think the next new project I start (as opposed to finishing off the many part built projectsblush.gif) will be the DJH version of this. I have just ordered a drawing from Isinglass and taken delivery of the motor/gearbox from ABC.

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Trying out the valve gear for fit.

On the whole it fits well and moves freely. Note that the combination lever needs bending to fit but no mention of this is made in the instructions.

Also the threads on the cast return crank pin are under sized and pull straight through...

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Postie's been and left some more bits for the tender.

One of the castings was duff so I made it up with some milliput which hopefully won't look to bad once it's painted.

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Fantastic Job 30801, I was thinking of making the plastic bulkhead out of brass, after looking at all the etchwork on it, it kind of put me off ( all the little doors and things) then I saw your post and all the extra bits that are supplied for said bulkhead and so now I'm gonna make it!! all that's required is to solder these bits onto the bulkhead and I think it will look alright! we're only on issue 99 here in South Africa so I didn't know all those extra's were still coming!

 

Mark

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I was thinking of making the plastic bulkhead out of brass, after looking at all the etchwork on it, it kind of put me off ( all the little doors and things) then I saw your post and all the extra bits that are supplied for said bulkhead and so now I'm gonna make it!!

 

Brass would certainly be less chunky.

 

Mine is slightly a casualty of not having all the parts up front.

The bulkhead should have been not quite flush with the curve around the tender sides so that the brass beading added later would be.

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Haven't done a huge amount lately.

Here it is with some more bits added to the boiler.

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Also at issue 116 I've had my first missing parts. Mag arrived in its sealed plastic bag, but no parts at all :(

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Replacement part 116 duly arrived and here are the bits fitted.

Now, off to box it up ready for the Flying Scotsman stand at Guildex tomorrow.

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Resurrecting this thread....

 

Lubricators and atomisers. I did these about a year ago but never got round to posting.

Some fiddly bending of wires combined with very fragile castings there.

 

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Right. Back up to date again.

Soldering on the tender buffer shanks. These are scarily close to the plastic body so I stuck a wad of wet kitchen towel for a bit of protection.

 

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I tinned everything first and did it as quick as I could. Nothing melted :)

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One of them is slightly rotated, but the buffers are all straight and level and I'm not risking trying to unsolder things

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The corridor connector is I think a bit large. The lugs on the back were a long way off the slots in the back of the tender.

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Some filing and refitting of the steps later.

Of course when you take a photo you notice the wonky one.

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Ejector pipe fitted to the boiler and the last bits stick to the back head. There's not a lot to do now apart from lamp irons and I can look at painting it.

 

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Wow! what a great job you are doing there 30801, very good l wish l had started to collect the part's from day one,anyway l will have to keep watching the progress you are making, excellent photos, looking forward to more, well done.............

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Adding the green. I'm using Just Like The Real Thing paint for this BTW.

 

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Don't you love it when you find SWMBO has used almost all your Tamiya masking tape to paint the spare room. I made do with some cheap stuff to wrap that paper towel round the boiler and the couple of places the tape made contact with the paint I ended up having to respray after scrubbing the glue off with meths :(

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