Jump to content
 

Lathes & M/C tools


Recommended Posts

Guest Isambarduk
6 hours ago, snitzl said:

time for some real modelling.

I take your point but the kind of task that you've just tackled is what I enjoy.   Great job, BTW!  David

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

23-IMG_1645.JPG.865dcd99fe6827d30b750d5d35fbd80d.JPG

Here are a few images of the installation of a Wolf Jann watchmakers vertical silde and spindle for the lathe workbench. Although I have a milling machine which is very handy for cutting gears, I wanted the ability to cut very small gears ( 0.15 module ) on the lathe. I've had repeated problems with concentricity when moving components from lathe to milling machine and four jaws and dial gauges are not an option due to lack of space.

24-IMG_1646.JPG.9d8a82217b21e5348148adc3de9795f4.JPG

The vertical slide is mounted on a spare Pultra cross / compound slide assembly.

25-IMG_1647.JPG.cf004a145c0cfffa7b01f3b22bb1687c.JPG

Some additional Gibraltar drum rack and clamps are used to secure the new adjustable sewing machine motor which will use the same speed control unit as the lathe spindle motor by exchanging the plugs.

26-IMG_1648.JPG.0ca165a59eed29969a168c4d4e06a4aa.JPG

With ths motor mount method, the belt will tighten / loosen as the cross slide is adjusted, but I'm not to concerned as the amount of movement will be very small and can be adjusted by the rack clamps.

27-IMG_1649.JPG.29b5a903f4d6d2344fd4dc8bbeb5223c.JPG

The Wolf Jann vetical spindle takes standard 8mm watchmakers collets which are the same collets used in the lathe spindle.

29-IMG_1651.JPG.cda34d7c5c946fdecab14b45f7cb8aa7.JPG

Next job is to make a simple indexing plate / attachment for the lathe spindle and give the thing a tryout....

 

Thanks for looking

Snitzl

Edited by snitzl
Re-Upload Missing Images.
  • Like 10
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All, Managed to complete the indexing components, not cut any gears yet, I'll do that in the next couple of days.30-IMG_1659.JPG.4426c1e8ccd542d0046a8f2642bcde02.JPG

Didn't fancy parting off 70mm dia steel in the colds of my workshop, so I did a search for steel discs on the bay and bought 20 off, 70mm diameter, 3mm thick mild steel discs for £13.00.

31-IMG_1660.JPG.90eeaed8af7a6d5b51927ab079f67875.JPG

Set up the BCA jig borer with an Emco dividing head for drilling the holes in the index plate.

32-IMG_1661.JPG.67c1a8738836c0a74cb92ddbfbac2b7c.JPG

Holes are drilled and countersunk at the same time with a 1/4" centre drill.

33-IMG_1662.JPG.ab4f8a066c358767b0e698e1920f4753.JPG

With all the parts now complete, its time to assemble.

34-IMG_1663.JPG.1088d7d6a974ca7503a60a1600efe88e.JPG

Index plate mounting bush is pushed onto the spindle and held in place with a 3.0mm dia grub screw, the index plunger / spring assembly, locates in the original indexing hole designed for use with the holes on the back of the pulley. The pulley has 60 holes and is not suitable for the 26 tooth gear that I plan to make.

35-IMG_1664.JPG.fdb6193de6597b9a5830d2682cef4524.JPG

The plunger aligns with the 26 hole divisions in the new index plate.

36-IMG_1665.JPG.557bb4da0e99b8f253f1cb181105d622.JPG

Fully assembled on the lathe, its now time to remove the index plate, turn a gear blank, and try some gear cutting with the new spindle.

 

Thanks for Looking : Snitzl.

 

  • Like 11
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are some gears I made on my lathe a while ago. (I cant quite remember why :unsure: )

 

They are actually helical. I used the lathe as a sort of shape and made them on one piece of brass rod then parted them off into individual gears.

 

DSCN4970.JPG.6681447c61bef9d4ebc5a2e401262678.JPG

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

I haven't got a scooby what you are doing, it's going way over my head, but it's absolutely fascinating.

 

Mike.

I'd love to illustrate the process of making gears for anyone interested, but I'm not sure from reading the intro pages of Lathes and M/C Tools that this would be appropriate for this topic. The topic seems to cover lathes and machine tools with a liitle advice on how to use them.  What I intend to do is turn a gear blank on a lathe in the usual way,  then remove the drive belt and lock the lathe spindle into 26 equi spaced indexed positions. A vertical slide / spindle is then attached to the lathe bed, in effect, converting the lathe into a mini milling machine. One gear tooth is cut, then the lathe spindle is rotated one hole position on the index plate, this is repeated until all 26 gear teeth are cut.

 

Pete

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 

I'm a plumber, not a proper engineer, and what I do to tools and tooling would make your hair curl!, but it interests me to see a skilled process being carried through by somebody who knows what they are doing.

How about a YouTube video of the operation?, I watch many of those which are not within my remit, machining, construction etc and would add yours to the list!

 

Mike.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi.

 

I have been working on making a gear cutting machine. It uses a slightly different approach in that it uses a gear hob instead on a series of involute cutters. The mechanics are done, I just need to work out the arduino control for it now.

 

image.png.fe7570c9fd12b92690e6029f52d6afc0.png

 

Missy :)

  • Like 11
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, -missy- said:

Hi.

 

I have been working on making a gear cutting machine. It uses a slightly different approach in that it uses a gear hob instead on a series of involute cutters. The mechanics are done, I just need to work out the arduino control for it now.

 

image.png.fe7570c9fd12b92690e6029f52d6afc0.png

 

Missy :)

Not seen anything quite like it, looks very interesting and unique, I see that you are using two stepper motors and timing belts. Can't imagine getting my head around the arduino code though. Look forward to seeing more.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided to post a bit of a tutorial on using the new index plate, vertical slide, milling spindle and compound / cross slide assembly and I must say that it was quite an enjoyable experience without any concentricity fustrations. This was the first time I'd used any of these items, all of which were purchased earlier this year. The only surprice was the Pultra 1750 compound / cross slide, the dials read 0 - 100, which I presumed to be 100 thou per revolution, in fact they are both 1.0mm per revolution, so it's either new dials, or new screws and bushes. A job for the warmer months next year.

01-CuttingGears.jpg.b61dba3fbfd64c9f8cf3ca2a63ac207f.jpg

02-CuttingGears.jpg.96a204963e4978f40e7c24f27d5e3b89.jpg

03-CuttingGears.jpg.a72469bbb7f6dfd02d6d945f75dabda3.jpg

04-CuttingGears.jpg.91e5eaf258488f9ff9e7474e8047c7a1.jpg

Here's a few gears I made earlier, mainly scrap......

 

Thanks for Looking..

 

Edited by snitzl
Re-Upload Lost Images.
  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, snitzl said:

Decided to post a bit of a tutorial on using the new index plate, vertical slide, milling spindle and compound / cross slide assembly and I must say that it was quite an enjoyable experience without any concentricity fustrations. This was the first time I'd used any of these items, all of which were purchased earlier this year. The only surprice was the Pultra 1750 compound / cross slide, the dials read 0 - 100, which I presumed to be 100 thou per revolution, in fact they are both 1.0mm per revolution, so it's either new dials, or new screws and bushes. A job for the warmer months next year.

01-CuttingGears.jpg.b61dba3fbfd64c9f8cf3ca2a63ac207f.jpg

02-CuttingGears.jpg.96a204963e4978f40e7c24f27d5e3b89.jpg

03-CuttingGears.jpg.a72469bbb7f6dfd02d6d945f75dabda3.jpg

04-CuttingGears.jpg.91e5eaf258488f9ff9e7474e8047c7a1.jpg

Here's a few gears I made earlier, mainly scrap......

 

Thanks for Looking..

 


Thanks for sharing. An interesting sequence of explanation as is usual from your posts. 
 

I also bought a Pultra cross slide this year, without knowing what the graduations were. Quite unsurprisingly it has the standard divisions (not metric). If it saves you the effort and is convenient would you like to swap? I would prefer a metric one. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, richbrummitt said:


Thanks for sharing. An interesting sequence of explanation as is usual from your posts. 
 

I also bought a Pultra cross slide this year, without knowing what the graduations were. Quite unsurprisingly it has the standard divisions (not metric). If it saves you the effort and is convenient would you like to swap? I would prefer a metric one. 

Hi richbrummitt, Thanks for the offer of a swap, but after sleeping on it, I prefer the metric thread over the much courser imperial thread on these small watchmaker slides, my favourite slide has 0 - 25 thou dials. I probably don't need to redo the dials either, as long as I remember that 10 on the dial is 0.1mm. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
54 minutes ago, micknich2003 said:

I'm sure someone on here will be able to help me. I have a Sherline manual milling machine which I bought new c2002, I can find the "Lock" for the "X" axis but not the "Y" axis. Any help appreciated. Thanks Mick.

 

Don't know about the Sherline but on my Sieg it's on the bottom slide hiding up under the top slide. It's not easy to see. On the Sieg there are actually two screws with toggle extensions for leverage.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Not sure if anyone else has noticed by since Brexit Fohrmann have stopped shipping to the UK. Hopefully temporary while they get their head rounds the paperwork etc, but the upshot is that what would ahve been an impulse buy of some 60 euros for one of their wheel holding fixtures turned into a project of my own.

 

Now, I've not used a lathe tool in anger for 25 years, despite owning a lathe for the last 15 ....

 

But I've made these bits from looking at the images on the Fohrmann website and diagrams in their downloadable instructions (the wheel is an old Triang Hornby Scotsman just as a test fit)

 

 

DSC_0019.thumb.JPG.530543f377f36b9afb2aefcfad42883f.JPG

 

it all fits together like this

 

 

DSC_0018.thumb.JPG.57778ef597ecc3f4693d0512e8badbed.JPG

 

Not bad for a first go, and it works 🙂 Want to make a larger pressure piece, so have some 16mm bar on the way and the eBay bought M2 thumbwheel is a bit small, so would like to turn up a larger brass knurled one like Fohrmann supply. Need to buy a knurling tool first 🙂

 

The M2 thread was made from some 2mm silver steel rod and Loctited into a tapped hole at the end of the cone. Cone is a bit rough as my compound slide was a bit loose (didn't notice before I started) but it does the job.

 

Of course this has got me now looking at various on-line tooling suppliers for more goodies for the lathe, this could get expensive LOL

Edited by RedgateModels
  • Like 9
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

Not sure if anyone else has noticed by since Brexit Fohrmann have stopped shipping to the UK. Hopefully temporary while they get their head rounds the paperwork etc, but the upshot is that what would ahve been an impulse buy of some 60 euros for one of their wheel holding fixtures turned into a project of my own.

 

Now, I've not used a lathe tool in anger for 25 years, despite owning a lathe for the last 15 ....

 

But I've made these bits from looking at the images on the Fohrmann website and diagrams in their downloadable instructions (the wheel is an old Triang Hornby Scotsman just as a test fit)

 

DSC_0019.JPG.b4989a3825c88303208ac1ff6929f753.JPG

 

it all fits together like this

 

DSC_0018.JPG.4613863ced13ad5b7a19ae1053c6e030.JPG

 

Not bad for a first go, and it works :) Want to make a larger pressure piece, so have some 16mm bar on the way and the eBay bought M2 thumbwheel is a bit small, so would like to turn up a larger brass knurled one like Fohrmann supply. Need to buy a knurling tool first ;)

 

The M2 thread was made from some 2mm silver steel rod and Loctited into a tapped hole at the end of the cone. Cone is a bit rough as my compound slide was a bit loose (didn't notice before I started) but it does the job.

 

Of course this has got me now looking at various on-line tooling suppliers for more goodies for the lathe, this could get expensive LOL

 

Will you be holding it in a collet? To get it to run really true you could put a Morse taper on it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
3 minutes ago, AndyID said:

 

Will you be holding it in a collet? To get it to run really true you could put a Morse taper on it.

 

Unlikely, I've never removed the 3 jaw from this lathe in the 15 years I've owned it LOL. Takes a few goes to get it true(ish) but can be done. If I was doing it all day then yes, 8mm collet chuck with a 2MT on it instead of the 3 jaw.

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, RedgateModels said:

Takes a few goes to get it true(ish) but can be done.

There is a dirty trick to ensuring a 3-jaw chuck is true. Mark the jaws 1 - 2 - 3 on the jaws and chuck so if you dismantle it you can reassemble them in the exact same positions. Then wind the jaws out into a ring so that you can lock them into the ring with enough room to get a boring bar into the space in the chuck jaws. Run the boring bar in taking very fine cuts until all three chuck jaws have been touched to an equal extent by the tool. This ensures the inner faces of the jaws are now concentric with the centreline of the headstock. (If you don't lock the jaws into a ring, like wot I did the first time, they can chatter something awful when the tool gets to work).

 

You could if needs be do the same to the outer faces of the jaws so that any ring chucked up is also true to the headstock centre, but I've never felt the need for this.

 

The other thing I've had to do once is face off the fronts of the jaws after chucking up a wheel and noticing that it wasn't touching all three jaws.

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding AdamsRadial's sound advice on machining the jaws, it's also worth noting that if there is excessive wear on the scroll threads or jaw threads of the chuck, then you are unlikely to get the jaws true, you may improve concentricity to within a few thou. Also, many jaws are hardened, if so, you will need to attach a grinder and cover the lathe bedway surfaces with some form of protection.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Isambarduk
On 03/02/2021 at 20:38, AdamsRadial said:

Then wind the jaws out into a ring so that you can lock them into the ring with enough room to get a boring bar into the space in the chuck jaws.

In this way, you have the inner face of the jaws to running true with the outer face of the scroll, which is probably better than nothing, but the approved way is to grind (turning is usually not possible with a quality chuck) the inner face of the jaws true, at a given diameter, with a disc of that diameter clamped at the back (inner) of the jaws; in this way, you are truing up the jaws on the inner face of the scroll, which is the face that you'll be using.

A self-centring three-jaw chuck is only ever self-centring to a degree, it's never going to be self-centring at all diameters.  It is intended to get hold of stock that you are going to machine all over at one setting, so there is no original outer surface remaining on the finished job.

 

If you need a job to run true then use a i) collet, or ii) an indepenedt four-jaw, or iii) a Griptru three-jaw chuck.

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Isambarduk said:

 

If you need a job to run true then use a i) collet, or ii) an indepenedt four-jaw, or iii) a Griptru three-jaw chuck.

 

 

One way to get repeatable concentricity is to make a tool that runs between centers although that might not be so easy for turning something as small as an OO wheel.

 

Another approach that should, in theory, be even better than a collet is to put a Morse taper on the end of the tool itself but it probably needs to be hardened and ground for the best results.

 

Andy

Link to post
Share on other sites

I improved my life by getting a set of ten ER16 collets from Amazon, and a collet chuck and backplate from elsewhere, all for a little under £100. This was for a Unimat 3. It gets a lot of use!

Edited by Giles
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...