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On 01/07/2021 at 18:05, snitzl said:

Hi Michael, If that's the case, then I will trust your word and try Phosphoric Acid out on a test piece some time in the near future ( But not on the BCA ).

Pete,

 

You saw my example above. I didn't trust the reports either. But the result was convincing, so I tried it on other examples and it worked to my satisfaction. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to try some test pieces first.

 

Michael

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Managed to complete all the de-rusting on the BCA jig borer and most of the part's have turned out very nice, only the chrome handle's and pulley wheel showed serious sign's of pitting from the rust.  I'll probably do a little restoration on the handle's later in the year. About 1 litre of the 'Evapo-Rust' solution has either evaporated or been wiped off the part's as removed from the solution which is still active.

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The 'Epavo-Rust' gel was used on the vertical face, extra gel was applied periodically to area's that had dried, other's have suggested covering with cling film to prevent evaporation.

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The head was totally stripped, here's a pic taken during the re-assemble.

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The chrome handle's were very rusty in place's and the chrome had flaked, pitting from the rust is very visible.

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Pitting on the pulley was expected.

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The head assembly is now ready for installation.

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Job Done.

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Looks great!

I would keep an eye on the surfaces for the next couple of days/weeks to make sure that all active Evapo-rust has been removed. Black spots and/or slight rust would indicate that there is still something going on. The oil you put on the surfaces has a certain capability to compensate an acidic environment, but you surely do not want to take any risk.

 

Michael

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  • 3 weeks later...

One of the pitfall's with being obsessed with old machinery is tooling, or the lack of it. Take my BCA for example, the machine came with three imperial collet's, an 1/8", 1/4" , 3/8" and a small drill chuck. Recently, I purchased an ER11 collet holder and a few collet's so that I had an improved method for mounting dental burs, small metric cutter's, engraver cutter's and diamond bur's, I use these small cutter's quite often when machining model railway component's. This small adapter was mounted in the 1/4" collet and worked well, but the adapter position could change / creep during machining, so here are a few images as a reminder to myself and hopefully of some help to RMWEB'er's contemplating making a similar collet adapter.

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3/4" diameter, EN8 bright carbon steel mounted in the 3 jaw, one end is threaded M9 x 1, the shank is turned to 7/16" dia, end is centre drilled.

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Setting the 20 deg angle on the compound slide : 20mm movement on the compound slide = 269 thou on the dial gauge.

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The 20 deg angle added.

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Using the same 14mm x .75 thread as used on the previously purchased ER11 adapter, I will also use the same 'Nut', which are plentiful on the bay. The die was adjusted so that the thread was cut in three stages.

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Collet is first drilled and then bored out with the compound slide set at 8 deg.

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Checking the fit with a ER11 collet.

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An M9 x 1 split nut is made from a piece of brass, the nut will protect the thread from the drive dog when machining between centres.

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With the adapter mounted between centres, the shank and 20 deg angular section's are remachined to size. Diameter of the shank is reduced from 7/16" to 10.97mm. Had major delay here getting the tailstock aligned with the headstock.

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Adding an 1/8" slot on the Herbert Mill.

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Couple of flats machined for a 12mm AF spanner.

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Job Done.

 

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Managed to make a few more collet adaptor's for the BCA using what was left of the 3ft of 3/4" dia EN8 bright carbon steel purchased for the ER11 Collet Adaptor, it's a good job that I didn't buy 6ft.

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Collet adaptor's for a JT0 drill chuck, JT1 drill chuck x 2 and a 4mm Spotting Drill.

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Three slitting saw arbors in 3/8", 1/2" and 5/8".

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.............

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....

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Job Done.

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On 30/05/2020 at 11:13, Vecchio said:

This will kill the edges... 

 

There was a time Glenfiddich was sold in very useful metal boxes - I kept several and one is my milling cutters storage....

So I bought the single malt just for the boxes :D

 

49951767017_e153740a2f_c.jpg20200530_110357 

Just to come back to the old subject of tool storage - I must have been pretty bored recently, as I made a new box for my drill bits. And of course it fits into the drawer below the mill/drill.

 

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And now in the drawer...

 

51338413761_6a4cf66478_k.jpg20210725_202342 (2)

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Managed to make some headway with the BCA tooling so hopefully the machine will be ready to use during the winter month's, still need to do a modification to the motor mount to make it easier to adjust the motor height and I also fancy an ER11 chuck that mounts on the rotary table and is self centred by a dowel. Here's a mounting plate for a 3 jaw chuck that mount's on the rotary table.

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Machining the plate on the Boley Leinen lathe.

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Over on the Herbert OV mill - Adding clamping slot's and three holes to secure the scroll chuck.

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Part's gathered for assembly.

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Look's like one or two bur's need removing from the clamping slot, but otherise - Done.

 

Thanks for Looking.

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Here's the modification to the motor mount to make it easier to adjust the motor height and tension, this became necessary when I removed the origninal 240V AC motor and replaced it with a digital variable speed sewing machine motor, I've kept all the original fitting's just in case there's a need to revert back.

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Started with the main block in aluminium, there was only just enough room on the Herbert to drill and ream the 14mm diameter x 85mm length hole - Had to use morse tapered drill's and reamer, no room for a chuck.

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Managed to find some Clarkson 'C' type autolock collet's on the Bay, so now I can use the larger collet size's.

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With the main block and an unmade component in Aluminium, the remaining part's were made from mild steel.

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Here are the main part's assembled, the aluminium extrusion was a lucky find from the scrap bucket.

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The two steel screw's with cross hole's in the head actually secure the tension of the belt and not the height as might be expected, the height can be adusted with the piece yet to be fitted in the above picture. ( Height can also be set by the mounting bolt ).

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The original bracket that connect's directly to the motor was retained.

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Here is the new motor and bracket assembled to the BCA.

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A closer look for clarity - The modification work's fine, only long term use will prove it's worth.

 

Regards Pete

 

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This should be the last of the tooling I had in mind to build this season, it's an ER11 adaptor plate that mount's on the rotary table and should be suitable for machining romford type axles and steam valves.

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Construction is a combination of the ER11 collet adaptor and the chuck adaptor previously posted.

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Clamping slot's added on the Herbert OV miller.

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A removable dowel on the underside ensures concentricity with the rotary table.

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As before, the ER11 nut was purchased cheaply from the Bay.

 

Pete

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Hi All, Just acquired this lovely little Sigma-Jones jig borer / mill from the bay, in fact, the images below were taken by the previous owner and used in the bay listing. At present, the machine is stripped down and getting the 'Evapo-Rust' treatment previously decribed when I did the BCA jig borer. For anyone interested in the history of the SigmaJones / Excel, Ultra and BCA jig borer / mills, there's a link on the lathes site : http://www.lathes.co.uk/bca/ 

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The machine is in very good condition for its age.

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I think that M.T.73 is a production / serial number, all the main conponents on this machine have this number stamped on them. Perhaps stands for Machine Tool 73.

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...............

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All the tooling made previously  for the BCA MK3 will also fit this machine.

 

Regards Pete

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Hi All, Managed to give the bulk components of the Sigma-Jones the 'Evapo-Rust' treatment,  I used the same 'Evapo-Rust' solution as previously used on the BCA jig borer and although the rust removal took a little longer I'm quite pleased that the product did both machines. Also fitting the same 550w sewing machine servo motor as previously fitted to the BCA and Pultra watchmakers lathe.

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Just noticed a little rust showng in the turn table side holes.

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I didn't bother stripping down the handles / dials and screws as they looked OK.

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Still need to sort out the drive belt....

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.................

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There is a slight chip in the pulley, but I can live with that...

 

Thanks for Looking.

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Apologies for temporarily hijacking @ozzyo's thread (feel free to bounce me/send the boyz round/send cake) but this must be the ideal place for the following:

 

A group of us attend a Model Engineering Evening Class; this is near to M25 Junction 25 and is on Thursday evenings from 6pm to 9pm.  This is a small & very friendly closed/private group - so you won't find it advertised on the web.

Large modern workshop facility, with 5 Bridgeport size Vertical Mills (new, with DRO's and power feed), 16(?) modern Lathes with DRO's, Drills, Horizontal and Vertical Bandsaws, loads of bench space, Guillotine, tooling, some metal stocks etc.

Sadly no surface grinder - but we live in hope....

 

Qualified tuition & guidance available as required (from complete beginner upwards) or do your own thing on whatever project you are working on.

Costs?  Well at the moment it appears that this year is free :) however this could change (and your own personal circumstances may affect this); as a guide previous years have been in the order of just under £100 for the entire year.  There are currently ten of us in the group - sadly Covid claimed one of us :( and one or two others have moved away.  However, we need to attract two or more to the group asap (the class has just started - enrollment is still ongoing though) otherwise there's a risk that the class could be cancelled).

 

So if you are interested - you must be aged 18+, house trained, friendly (no axe-wielding psychopaths) etc. then please contact me @polybear asap in the first instance.

Just one proviso though (and sorry to be blunt) - if you are (or were to be) a member of a Club and have an "Oi, you're sitting in MY chair..." attitude then this isn't the group for you.  It's very friendly and helpful - and we'd really like to keep it that way....

Many thanks.

 

@ozzyo - If you'd rather I started a new thread for the above then please feel free to bounce me and I'll happily shift it :smile_mini2:

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Hi.

If you were closer, I would readily bite your arm off with an offer like that. Finding access to larger machines is not far off impossible these days. Evening classes don't seem to exist anymore.

 

Missy.

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Sadly there are very few Colleges offering Machining tuition at all anymore, let alone the opportunity of Evening Classes for Model Engineering.  The last College I was at sadly stopped the course (and I think the day courses too) - it was only because the Guy that ran the course didn't want to see us with nowhere to go that he contacted a friend he used to work with at a nearby college who then started up a "special" just for us (hence the college doesn't advertise or make any mention on it's website).  The problem is that we are at least a couple short, so at risk of the "course" shutting down.  And then we really will be in sh1t, as the chances of finding another are somewhat less than knitting fog :cry:

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You're very lucky to have an evening class these days. I built a 5" gauge steam loco at a evening class in N.London although I built a lot of it at home. It was in existence for 12 years, we went in one evening and all the machine tools had been unbolted from the floor.Still miss those days 

 

 

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I started one fifteen or more years ago. It was using machine tools, from lathes to drill press to mills.

We got as far as making a brass plumb bob, then it got cancelled as only six people turned up.

I still have the plumb bob, although my laser level gets more use now.

 

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4 hours ago, sagaguy said:

You're very lucky to have an evening class these days. I built a 5" gauge steam loco at a evening class in N.London although I built a lot of it at home. It was in existence for 12 years, we went in one evening and all the machine tools had been unbolted from the floor.Still miss those days 

 

 

I was a member of the NLSME at the time before relocating to Northampton with my job in 1985 just as the classes came to an end.The session always used to end with a crowd of us retiring to the local pub afterwards.I had some good friends in those days,nearly all dead now i`m afraid.We bought a house with a double garage an installed my lathe and later,purchasing a Warco vertical mill as i had started my next loco,a 5" gauge WD Austerity loco but without the camaderie of my friends coupled with failing health,its come to a dead stop.I have to be honest,i did look into buying a Kingscale 5" gauge BR 2-6-4 standard tank loco,at just under £8000,it wasn`t worth building my own but again getting older,transporting it and lifting it about put a stop to that idea.

 

                 Below,a pic of my garage workshop and the part built Austerity.

 

                                 Ray.

WD hrca..jpg

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Just before my enforced holiday in Hotel Treliske (Royal Cornwall Hospital) over summer I received a small vertical slide and made an adaptor plate for my CL250M lathe. 

 

DSC_0192.JPG.8177a104cba9cd03af9a47ffd6c08920.JPG

 

 

Does the job great, using an 8mm end mill bit on full speed it makes swift work of mazak. Here's some bits of triang bogie, GMR 2-6-4 rear pony and 9F bogie made to fit together very well. 

 

 

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Not saying I'll not buy a proper CL251MH milling attachment if one ever came up for sale, but for what I need this slide does very well :)

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On 03/02/2021 at 09:47, RedgateModels said:

Not sure if anyone else has noticed by since Brexit Fohrmann have stopped shipping to the UK.

 

Just as an update it seems that Fohrmann are once again shipping to the UK, via DHL for about 18 quid .....

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Repairing an old Tyco 2-6-2, me and my little lathe turned up a new spacer for the crank pin etc. Original one and my shiny new one. Penny for scale. Screw that will replace the sheared off crank pin is 11ba….
 

20220128_152557000_iOS.jpg.0c59d987949e9c63164703b536bb6f22.jpg

 

 

Not quite up to Missy’s standards but I’m pretty happy.

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  • 1 month later...

Good Evening / Morning All, 

 

It was is probably quite a familiar story I have inherited a Unimat 3 Lathe, amongst a few other things and haven't used one in anger since metal work in design tech in high school (20+ years ago). 

 

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It appears to have had very little use and comes with some cutting tools (i;ve since found an article on how to identify), steady post and a couple of dead centres. I've been on the scalefour forum and found some of Ted's articles on simple lathe work and there are numerous references for getting going on here I've found. I has after a little advise on:

 

- Servicing  and cleaning - the belts look a little perished and threads are a little stiff / dusty. Would a strip down and lube be recommend? 

 

Bearing in mind, my aims are to turn up bearings, re-profile wheels, axles, cut some small threads (4mm scale in EM  and P4), what I can gather the most useful additional components would be:

 

- Collet set (ER16? ER 25? Watch makers?)

- Tapered slide

- Wheel profile tool (P4/EM).  

- Live centre? 

- Tool wise, I am a little lost  - is there a go to set of tools that I should have? 

 

Any other recommendations for *must have* tools / parts? 

 

On the milling side it is missing a few items - mill table, machine vice, fine feed control and all the cutting tools. I would put this into the 'down the track' box of things to get working source. 

 

Looking forward to having a go. Thanks in advance. 

 

James 

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@Down_Underfor tools it's probably simplest to look at what tools you'll need for each project. For instance to make a bearing you'll probably want a turning tool which can face off and turn down the O.D., a parting off tool (at a push you could use a hacksaw), a centre drill to start the bearing hole and an appropriately-sized drill bit. On larger lathes with quick-change tool posts you'll often see people using chamfer tools to break edges but a quick touch with a file will work fine instead. Live centres are useful (essential?) when turning longer parts. You mention cutting threads. Unless  your lathe has a driven lead screw for thread cutting just use the appropriate die. One essential thing you will need is either a micrometer or a very good set of callipers. A dial test indicator can come in handy to check that things are running true.

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  • 2 weeks later...

When I had a Unimat 3 I bought an ER25 set which went up to 16mm and down to 2mm. At the time I was pointed at an ER25 Collet chuck on eBay Germany which was M14 and screwed straight onto the spindle

 

I also bought a separate 0-1mm collet. Although I sold the Unimat last year I kept the collets and use them almost daily on my Sieg SC3 and Mill

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