A Highland Miscellany - a Gantry Signal Doing My Head In!

[Portchullin Tatty]

Although not Highland vehicles, these full brakes have a strong association with the Highland's branchlines in the post grouping years.  Once the LMS took over the Highland's system in 1923, they seemed to have been horrified by the state of the coaching stock that they inherited!  Portions of the Highland's fleet were speedily retired and large numbers of foreign company's stock was drafted onto the system (especially the main line from Perth to Inverness, where the trains became fully corridor connected almost overnight).

 

When it came to the branchlines, the upgrade came primarily by the cascading of the better Highland stock onto these lines but there were exceptions.  Although the Highland had full brakes, it was a line that had a lot of parcels/packages traffic, so it seemed that they needed even more and a batch of these Midland six wheeled full brakes were drafted in.

 

 

Many photographs of the Highland branchlines of the 1920s had one lurking in the background so I felt one should get to make appearances on Glenmutchkin.  Simple, I thought, Slaters do a plastic kit for one and whilst it is no longer available, it is easy to pick up second hand and it should be a nice quick build.  Unfortunately, I had not realised what a rubbish kit it was!  It is too short and too narrow, most of the mastering is really crude and the panelling in particular would be a scale 6 inches deep.  So the Slaters kit made it back on ebay only marginally quicker than it came off and I set about designing my own kit.

 

It has taken a couple of iterations and about three years, but finally I have got to the stage where I am happy with it but you can form your own view!

 

 

The first iteration used a cleminson chassis but in the light of the success I had with sliding axles on some of my other 6 wheeled stock, I redesigned it to include these and some sprung W-irons in the style of Bill Bedford's.

 

 

Other than the use of these sliding axles, the main unusual feature of the model is the arrangement of securing the roof.  I have found that it is essential to bolt these in place to prevent the roof becoming adrift at some point in the future (which has happened to half my stock over time).  Therefore, I designed a set of legs that allow the roof to be bolted through the floor from below and in the process also securing the separate chassis tight too.  Broken down, the components look like this and having them separated does make painting a lot easier.  It is definitely the route I will take in the future.

 

 

It is intended that this kit will be made available for sale as a 4mm/1ft model - albeit you will need to source the fittings/castings yourself.  I have prepared some fairly extensive instructions and this includes the details of what is required and where to get it from.  I am waiting for a quote from the etching company to be able to work out the sensible cost for these; so an update post will follow when I list it on the Miscellany Models site.

 

In the meantime, here are a couple of additional views of the completed vehicle, awaiting its turn in the paintshop!

 

[Compound2632]

That looks very nice - would you consider making it available to others?

 

I do have one criticism though, if you will excuse my fastidiousness. The ducket looks too short and too fat with the square panel overdone - compare the photo on the page you reproduce from Lacy & Dow, and the bogie brake below it; also various photos of the brake ends of square-light clerestories in Jenkinson's book. Unfortunately the copy of drawing 1128 on the Midland Railway Study Centre website only shows the original large look-out and in red plain panelling adopted after these were found to be too big, not the small ducket adopted from 1902. Jenkinson does have a part drawing of the brake end of a Bain 54ft square-light carriage; I think the dimensions given there will be the same: the ducket projects 6" 3" from the side (9'0" over projections; 8'6" over body panels), it is 2'3 1/2" long and 2'0" high over the flat part, with the curved top and bottom sections being 2 5/8" high (I think - the drawing is reproduced at 7mm/ft which makes it hard to read). The beading is 3/8" compared to the standard panel beading width of 1 3/4".

Edited October 27, 2018 by Compound2632

[Portchullin Tatty]

That looks very nice - would you consider making it available to others?

 

I do have one criticism though, if you will excuse my fastidiousness. The ducket looks too short and too fat with the square panel overdone - compare the photo on the page you reproduce from Lacy & Dow, and the bogie brake below it; also various photos of the brake ends of square-light clerestories in Jenkinson's book. Unfortunately the copy of drawing 1128 on the Midland Railway Study Centre website only shows the original large look-out and in red plain panelling adopted after these were found to be too big, not the small ducket adopted from 1902. Jenkinson does have a part drawing of the brake end of a Bain 54ft square-light carriage; I think the dimensions given there will be the same: the ducket projects 6" from the side (9'0" over projections; 8'6" over body panels), it is 2'3 1/2" long and 2'0" high over the flat part, with the curved top and bottom sections being 2 5/8" high (I think - the drawing is reproduced at 7mm/ft which makes it hard to read). The beading is 3/8" compared to the standard panel beading width of 1 3/4".

 

The intention is to make them available to others; as an etch so you will need to source the castings chief of which would be the axlebox/springs which you can get as a separate item from Coopercraft or Branchlines.  I'll post here further when they are ready and how to get them.

 

I will take a look at the ducket; I think it may actually be too low rather than to fat but I have the Jenkinson book so will take a look at the reference you have pointed me towards.

 

Here is a view of it now part painted clipping along quite nicely; albeit somewhat lost as the layout it is on is a model of Eridge in Kent!

[billbedford]

 I think the dimensions given there will be the same: the ducket projects 6" from the side (9'0" over projections; 8'6" over body panels), 

 

Those widths would make each ducket project 3" from the sides. The ones on this model look too deep.

[Compound2632]

Those widths would make each ducket project 3" from the sides. The ones on this model look too deep.

 

Thanks Bill - my error, now corrected in my post above. 

Edited October 27, 2018 by Compound2632

[Portchullin Tatty]

The MR full brake, HR full brake, Fox Bogies and P7 hopper detailing etch are now available for sale.

 

See either this link or my Miscellany Models website.

 

For anyone who does seek to make one, I would be interested in any feedback from you.

Edited March 30, 2019 by Portchullin Tatty
spelling

[jwealleans]

I'm assuming that should read 'now', Mark?

 

Also, I'd be a bit wary of recommending Coopercraft as a supplier.

Edited March 30, 2019 by jwealleans

[Portchullin Tatty]

2 hours ago, jwealleans said:

I'm assuming that should read 'now', Mark?

 

Also, I'd be a bit wary of recommending Coopercraft as a supplier.

 

 oops and yes it was a spelling error.

 

I don't recommend anyone and do not intend to get dragged into the debate about Coopercraft.  There is a caution in the instructions but beyond that it is not something that I am prepared to comment on.

[Asterix2012]

How are you getting on with the kit for the “scrap tank”

[Portchullin Tatty]

On 25/12/2019 at 17:36, Asterix2012 said:

How are you getting on with the kit for the “scrap tank”

 

Sorry, I missed this posting.

 

It is still on the to do list.  I need to finish the last bits of the test build and then update the artwork.  It will definitely happen as I have twenty sets of castings in a box!

 

 

Mark

[Portchullin Tatty]

I have, however, been spending some time on the Midland full brake.  It is now largely lined (using Fox Transfers) and needs the black strengthening to the top and bottom of the sides and some picking out of the metal work.

 

I think it looks rather fine!   A few more pictures can be found on my blog here,

 

 

Mark

[Mikkel]

That looks excelllent. I'm impressed with the lining, even with good transfers it's not easy to make them look so neat. 

 

On your blog you mention how keyboards have dulled your drawing skills. I agree, even writing sentences by hand can feel awkard after long computer sessions. It's a bit scary to contemplate.

[Portchullin Tatty]

9 hours ago, Mikkel said:

 It's a bit scary to contemplate.

 

It is isn't it!

 

The flip side is that designing artwork is realistic for most (or all if they put some effort in) modellers and this is creating wider options and quality for lots of people.

 

It is ironic that in these days where you need less skill to make truly good models, with a bit of effort and application of knowledge, rather fewer are actually doing so.,,,,,,

 

 

Mark

[Portchullin Tatty]

For those with an interest in modelling signals; I have just put a post on my public blog about the tips and tricks I have learnt along the way..

 

You can find this here:

 

https://highlandmiscellany.com/

 

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

The Scalefour Society are running a Socially Distanced challenge, which is aimed at giving a little spur to our modellers during these difficult times. 

 

As part of this, I have picked up the building of a batch of signals for some friends. The first of these is a NER two doll signal. This is destined for Benfieldside and is the up starter. This went missing over the years and we have not been able to source a photograph of John Wright's signal here. We have arrived at the conclusion that the bay signal (which does exist but is inoperative) would be best combined with this, hence the two doll signal.  I fancied a go at building what the NER described as heavy bracket signal and discovering from the NERA's relatively recent book on signals that the NER did mix signal designs across their regions I felt I had the excuse.  Hopefully, this will look a bit like this at the end:

 

I started with the most difficult bit, the slotted posts. I construct my posts from brass section and file the tapers on. This is hard work as there is a fair amount of metal to remove but I think it creates both a more durable post but also one that is easier to solder the remaining elements to it. Once the basic posts for dolls were formed, I cut them to create the solid portions of the post that are above and below the slot. To each of these, I then filed a rebate on each side to take the slot plates which was formed of flat plate.

This is what it looks like once assembled and after the fitting of one of my lost wax McKenzie & Holland finials:



The difficult bit of a slotted post signal is getting the arm to affix to the spindle without gumming it all up in the slot. I do this by laminating a slip of brass on top of the ear that projects from the arm and is the point at which the operating rod attaches to the arm. I then extend it across the back of the arm by 3mm so that it projects slightly to the front of the post when the arm is inserted in the slot. I am liberal with the solder in attaching this but make sure that the rubbing faces are cleared of any excess.



I then wrap the arm in cigarette paper and insert it into the slot. After the spindle has been inserted, I touch the cigarette paper with light oil and allow it to soak through. Then I put a little flux on the laminated ear and apply the iron for a good time. The heat will transmit along the solder joint of this laminate and the liberal quantity of solder allows the solder to flash onto the joint of the spindle. The oil in the cigarette paper prevents the arm soldering itself to the inside of the slot.



The lamp support is a bit of a b*gger too as it has to span over and around the rod that operates the arm. A U shaped piece of scrap etch has to be used and the affixing of the lamp will have to follow the insertion of the operating rod (which I won't do until after painting. I this soldered a little spigot in the base of the lamp support - to go into the body of the whitemetal lamp and make the glue joint a little more certain.

[Portchullin Tatty]

More progress has been made with the two doll NER bracket signal.

I have used brass square section for the post and dolls, which means that there is a lot of hard filing to do (I don't have access to a milling machine). I reckon there was the better part of a day consumed with the post/dolls for this and the MR signal I am doing. It is hard work and there is a significant pile of brass dust to prove the point!

Thereafter, it gets a bit more fun as the brackets go on (in this case I used an MSE etch, although I have actually done my own for this and a number of other NER heavy brackets).
 

 

And then, with the previously prefabricated dolls and landing timbers, it starts to look like a signal.

 

Even at this stage, there is still a lot of building to do as there are handrails, the main ladder, steps and ladders to the dolls, the operating mechanism transferring the movement to the dolls all to do. In respect of the latter(I used rocking cams in this case - you can just see the use of some handrail knobs as the bearings in the photos below, the cams will be fitted after painting.

 

Slightly peculiarly, the NER built their landings in front of the arms whereas all the other signals I have yet built have these in the rear (excepting gantries, which can be either or both!). This view shows this most clearly.

 

 

The main ladder is not visible in the views as I have made this detachable because it is much easier to spray paint these (and better, it is not easy to get a thin coat of paint by brush application and it thickens up the fine detail of a ladder too much.

 

 

The grey primer is pretty cruel to modelling efforts but on the whole, I am pretty chuffed with this!

 

Edited April 19, 2020 by Portchullin Tatty

[Portchullin Tatty]

Some time back I posted about the construction of a NER autocoach that I was building for Benfieldside and subsequently what it looked like once painted by Warren Heywood.

 

The NER generally used these in pairs, with a loco sandwiched between, although they did go out singly and even as quads. In this case, the Benfieldside team wish to operate them as a pair, as the bay to the right of the layout is conceived to receive such a train, with a NER / LNER G6 in between. This means that there was pressure to build the second from the moment I handed the first over. They have recently given me a favour, so it was high time I repaid it.

 

It is now completed down to the final check over stage (which has indicated that I need to put the steam heating pipes on – doh!) and then it can be delivered. So I have braved the fading light this afternoon (so sorry about some of the depth of field issues) to take a few pictures.

 

I completed a few personal upgrades to the kit in both this and the earlier autocoach. Chief of these is around the roof where I ditched the plastic roof and replaced it with rolled brass. This was formed of 0.25mm to give it a tangible depth, which makes its rolling a fair challenge. Add to this, I elected to cut out the portion below the clerestory, so that it was a clerestory! By the time I had added the gas lines and the various gas lamps and ventilators, I reckon there is around 20 hours in making the roof alone!

 

 

The prototype coaches were fairly long lived and numerous. They thus collected a good number of alterations and differences over time. I took some guidance to David Addyman and tweaked the kit in respect of gas lines, foot steps, handrails, footboards and gas cylinders. If someone thinks this is wrong, please don’t tell me!!

 

 

It always amuses me that the driver had to stand and peer down the line through two tiny windows. They lived in different times – could you imagine the snow-flakes tolerating this in the 21st century?

 

 

These are rather beautiful coaches, but not for the feint-hearted as there is a lot of time invested in these. I am pleased I do not have to paint it!

 

 

[micklner]

Sadly a bit late now. Worsley Works now sell NER Clerestory Brass etched Roofs for their own kits, and D&S versions which are slightly wider .

 

Nice Coach.

Edited January 16, 2022 by micklner

[Portchullin Tatty]

Thanks Mick, I was vaguely aware of Worsley Works roofs but unclear which ones I wanted.

 

I deliberately made the roof of 0.25mm brass so it had some thickness both at the edges to look more prototypical but also for a bit of strength where I cut out the holes below the clerestory.

 

However, I might give the Worsley Works ones a crack next time (fear not, I still have a few others on the shelf!) as there was a lot of work in the roof.

 

 

Mark

[Portchullin Tatty]

For those of you that are interested in these NER coaches, there has been a helpful discussion on the S4 Society forum as to the details of these coaches,

 

Go towards the end of page 13 and the start of page 14 of this thread:

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=1345&start=300

[Portchullin Tatty]

After a long pause, caused by that irratating thing called life getting in the way and me seeming to neglect RMweb a bit, I am looking to deliver on some long made modelling promises over the holiday season.

 

The major task is a rather full on gantry signal with no less than eight movements on it (which is an improvement, when initially designed it had nine!), including a rather natty fan route indicator. This is for a friend’s layout and is in return for some signal cabins that he built no less than 15 years ago – I told you the promises were long made! Mind you, he hasn’t got the layout fully running yet, so I am still ahead of him!

 

The gantry spans only two lines so it can be formed with channel section. There are good drawings and pictures in LMS Journal no 5 of this. I have made mine from milled brass section and then the landing was a custom etch I designed as it takes a surprisingly large amount of material and effort to construct this from scratch. These etches included the doll base plates although the dolls have a thickened tube at the lower level which of course I forgot and had to undo later work to put on!!

 

 

The signal is to be located on an embankment which meant that I could not simply put flat base plates on the foot of the gantry columns. Instead I have constructed a housing that matches the slope of the embankment and then the baseplates are partially sloped to match this with square sections representing the foundations of the prototype columns. Below these baseplates I have then formed housings to take the servos which will eventually operate the arm actions.

 

 

So far, this is pretty easy modelling (although I lost a number of drill bits opening up the stanchion positions on the landing – grrrrrr!). The tough bit comes next……………

 

[Portchullin Tatty]

Once the basic structure of the gantry is in place, the real task of making the signals signally commences. First up were the smoke deflectors and the brackets for the balance weights. Also fitted are the main portions of the fan route indicator, but that will be explained further once I get it going!

 

 

 

For the arm bearing point and lamps I am using some 3D prints produced by Steve Hewitt and available from Shapeways. They can be found here https://www.shapeways.com/product/JJRSB … arketplace. They are fairly expensive but they are neat and save a lot of manufacture. There is, however, a but – they are very delicate and I am very fearful of thier long term durability. I am highly likely to draw some of my own up and get them cast in lost wax. It will make them even more expensive but I have about a 50% casualty rate at the moment, so maybe in the long term it will be cheaper!

 

 

The arms are Masokits, these are definitely the best available arms for LMS/LNER/BR semaphores. This is especially true of the minature shunt arms as the MSE ones are simply too delicate to bother with (imagine how do I know that………….!). So this is where we are now at with the arms mounted temporarly on the bearings.

 

 

 

There are five movements in the down direction (three of which operate via the route indicator) and then a pair in the up direction – hence the back to front arms.

 

 

 

 

The plates at the top of the dolls are mounting points for ladders. It transpires they are wrong and have already gone!

 

So the intensity level has dialled up a notch with these portions (especially breaking the bearing/lamp fittings) but it really gets interesting when you try and make these things work.

 

I don’t know myself yet (although I know for the couple of arms I have finished, so I have an inkling), but i think it might be fun to have a little sweepstake on how many moving parts there will be in the finished gantry. Five arms, three fan route indicators and each is operated by way of angle cranks in order to get the movement down to the servos under the baseplates.

 

Each arm, crank and intermediate wire counts as a moving part, as do the servos………………..guesses please?

Edited January 1 by Portchullin Tatty