CME and Bottlewasher Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 4 hours ago, Giles said: An irritation of this model is the poor representation of the side indicators - which should be the long thin vertical type so prevalent at the time. I had wondered if if might be possible to make some, so I ordered some amber perspex - 3mm being the thinnest I could get - and set to drawing some up, and setting the Stepcraft up to do the job. The top one is as it came off the machine, which was great, but i thought could be better - so I 'flame-polished' it, quickly with a small butane torch, giving me the lower version. IMG_1691 by giles favell, on Flickr IMG_1695 by giles favell, on Flickr Exquisite Giles! Superb! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 Still needs mirrors, numbers plates and a whole lot of weathering! 5 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 3 hours ago, Giles said: Still needs mirrors, numbers plates and a whole lot of weathering! Looking good Giles, at this rate you will need to start lifting track and laying tarmac! Martin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 Cheers mate- I may actually get back to some railway modelling! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Hi Giles, Video looks great and truck looks very english now. How did you remove the printing on the door of the lorry please? I need to do the same on my TK. Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted December 20, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 20, 2019 The best way to remove tampo printing from a diecast is with a small amount of T-cut on a cotton bud. Rub it gently with a circular motion and watch it disappear. Clean the surface afterwards before applying paint/transfers. Some people may suggest nail varnish remover but this can cause damage to plastic parts such as windows. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 Yes, you can use T-cut or Duraglit both of which are polishes which contain solvents. You can then use a cotton bud (if it is a large area) or a cock-tail stick on the lettering if it is a smaller detail. I often use 2000 wet and dry, as I like to flatten the surface anyway, and then give it a gentle buff up afterwards. One doesn't want to use an aggressive solvent.... 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 Last one of this model...... 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted December 21, 2019 Author Share Posted December 21, 2019 2019-12-21_05-46-35 by giles favell, on Flickr 13 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchbuilt Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 Hi Giles, I've spend hours and hours reading this and other threads and watching your video's. Wonderfull !! I'm also familiar with the work of Martin Krane from a German narrow gauge forum (Smalspurtreff) who has also built very nice RC cars in 1:43 (1:45). Building an RC car myself is a ten year old dream but never had the guts to give it a try. I'm familiar with Deltang equipment for I am driving my trains with batteries and RC. I've also built railltrucks and cars. So letting the rear axle rotate is not the problem. What realy, realy troubles me is a stearing front axle. I'm not a microengineer, have no lathe, no mill, no 3D printer nor the skills to produce a 3D drawing. Not even to mention CNC stuff. I wish I could just order a stearing axle somewhere for 1:35 or/and 1:43. Unless there is a way to make a frontaxle by handcraft using handtools, I can solder, have a Dremel and a very old Colomndrill. My son in law gave me a Revell 1:35 Opel Blitz plastic kit and I think this is a start to get something running (stearing). So I would be very pleased If you or anyone have tipps or instructions to make a basic stearing axle by hand. Best wishes and regards, Albert 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Hi Albert, yes no problem.... there are ways building the axle with the tools you describe- I will write this up later today... Best, Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Axle info here..... pt 1, or 2 still loading.... More waffle..... 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Part 2 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratchbuilt Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Hi Giles, Thank you for the video's, they were very helpfull indeed. The first components are on there way to me from Hongkong..... Albert 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) Having completed the FG, I thought I'd tidy up the work bench and finish off the second 4mm scale Bedford TK conversion. Now duly done..... a matching pair (one in use - one on charge). They both perform very nicely, manuoevring very well, with very nice slow speed work, which can often lack at this small size. They are built in exactly the same wy as the 7mm vehicles, and so share the same characteristics. 2 off 4mm scale radio controlled Bedford TKs by giles favell, on Flickr Edited January 13, 2020 by Giles 5 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 7, 2020 Author Share Posted February 7, 2020 I know this example is also 4mm, but the principle will hold good for all scales. I won't go into details until it's completed, but the nice bit is that it is practical to make straked belts that work. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted February 7, 2020 Share Posted February 7, 2020 Thought you had been suspiciously quiet of late! Oddly enough I have been working in 4mm scale, bit small for me long term, looking forward to getting back to the bigger scales. Martin 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 8, 2020 Author Share Posted February 8, 2020 Motorised with the £3 10mm gearmotors (60rpm). I've made the hopper, but have yet to attach it. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 1 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 22, 2020 Author Share Posted March 22, 2020 (edited) I'm thinning out the fleet of radio control vehicles, and putting three of them up for sale. If any one is interested, details are to be found at Www.ByGiles.com Or drop me a PM Giles Edited March 22, 2020 by Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted March 22, 2020 Share Posted March 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Giles said: I'm thinning out the fleet of radio control vehicles, and putting three of them up for sale. If any one is interested, details are to be found at ByGiles.com Or drop me a PM Giles Thanks for the link Giles, I didn't realise you had such a wide range of bits, there are some handy drainage bits I will need in due course. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Having built the two 4mm TKs (I know it's not 7mm!) I thought I would try an artic, so I bought an Oxford Atkinson Borderer flatbed, and have set about that...... The servo was surprisingly a very tight fit, and I had problems getting wire fine enough between unit and trailer to allow the swing, but I got there eventually. I used a 100rpm 6mm gear motor (£3.20 from eBay) as I've only 2ft a couple of precious K20s left. I found it surprisingly powerful, but not quite as stunning on low speed control. Adequate, but but brilliant. I have replaced the rather bulky mirrors, improved the headlights and fitted brake lights. I still have to make a crate or tarpaulin to cover the battery. 2020-03-29_05-57-18 by giles favell, on Flickr 6 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Nice job Giles, amazed you managed to motorise such a small model. I remember building the Dapol Scammell Scarab kit with its working landing legs/ coupling years ago and thinking what a great RC model it would be if you could get small enough motors. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 P.s. not sure if you are planning on repainting the model but I don't think it is prototypical, I think it is a little too early for Stobart? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Thanks Rob!, It's a challenge but people have brillintly managed to do significantly smaller stuff - theres a lovely 4mm Scarab under the radio control section....... I too thought that a Borderer was pushing it for Stbrts, but they did have at least one - although renoving the decals wouldnt be much of a problem anyway! Best Giles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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