Nigelcliffe Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 I've just stumbled over this, it is superb running, well done. A couple of suppliers of bits if Giles hasn't tripped over them yet - MicroAntrieb in Poland. They do various motorising bits and pieces for RC control of small model road vehicles (some for HO scale), there may be something of interest in their range. Some of the documentation is in German. http://www.kkpmo.com/homeENG.html Plantraco Microflight in Canada. Makers of very small RC aircraft bits and pieces, the receivers and servos might be useful. http://www.microflight.com/ - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Thank you all very much! I'm glad you've found it all interesting! Nigel, thank you - I've come across Microflight on my trials and tribulations - and although they do excellent stuff, the main stumbling block was that the receiver/speed controllers didn't have reverse (being intended for aircraft). But that other site, MicroAntrieb, looks extremely useful, and I've not found it before..... The prices also look good...! Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Wow wow and wow again. Just brilliant. Inspirational. Great work Giles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Glad you like, sir! All good harmless fun...... (but more fun than the Faller type stuff!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Sheer brilliance! Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 (edited) I've just completed a second lorry - its a Ford Thames (based on another die-cast model from EBay). Mechanically, it's very similar to the Moris Commercial, but radio-wise, it's fitted with a 2.4GHz DelTang receiver/ESC! Which is much better than the micro Tiny, and only costs about £28! The original model Now 'anglicised' Edited March 14, 2013 by Giles 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 And a video 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted February 9, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2013 It's a Ford Thames not a Trader. The Trader was forward control and only introduced in the late 50's as a replacement for the Ford Thames. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Yes, absolutely - my momentary confusion... a model FTG -7 even, I believe..... :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Great looking model again Giles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Quite outstanding modelling. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 Giles I can watch that video clip over and over again! Now, I've been through this thread again and I feel that slippery slope of yet another project I want to do. However, I've no knowledge of the RC world (as yet ). What transmitter do you have? Could you get away with just a two channel 2.4GHz set (steering/drive)? Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Hi Tim, I used one of the cheap 4 channel Blade 2dsm (Spektrum) transmitters, that you can pick up fom eBay for between £10 and £20 new. I only use two channels, although you can use the others easily enough..... In conjunction with the DelTang receiver, the RC side of it is very straight forward. At last weeks exhibition, I was getting three and a half hours use before re-charge on the lorries! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Hi Giles, what batteries and charging arrangements do you use ? Reason for asking is that I used to meet a micro-aircraft flyer, and he used "Lipo" cells, but was stop-watching their use on the plane, and then stop-watching charging cycles. All of which seemed a lot of precision faffing which would easily be wrong in a model vehicle (current draw on motor in road vehicle will depend on "up hill" or "downhill", etc..). I'm getting tempted to have a go at one, the DelTang bits seem quite cheap and understandable. A small motor/gearbox for drive is easy. Steering doesn't look too difficult to arrange. regards - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted February 23, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 23, 2013 Giles Many thanks. I spent most of yesterday evening looking on-line at the various RC videos including the Deltang ones and I've already started getting a few bits as I'll certainly have a go at an RC lorry. I'll let you know how I get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Nigel, I use iPod Nano batteries, and a small Lipo charger I picked up off eBay which has LED charge indicator lights. I haven't been using timers on the process (but I have periodically checked to make sure there has never been any change of temperature). Different generation of iPod nanos have different size batteries..... I'm using approx 240mwh The current draw on the motor/gearbox units I'm using seems very low - though I've not measured it. Micron RC, or David at DelTang would be able to offer more advice on chargers if necessary, I'm sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted February 23, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 23, 2013 Batteries were this afternoons area of research. There is a very useful primer on LiPo type batteries here. http://learn.adafruit.com/li-ion-and-lipoly-batteries It is clear that these types of batteries are not to taken lightly and their ability to catch fire if not charged/treated correctly is a real issue. There is a chap on a well known auction site that is selling a LiPo Battery Back Up Charger kit (for Raspberry related projects) for a few quid - I've ordered one but then I'm happy soldering a few bits together and may add an ammeter and some switching so I can vary the charging current. I've also ordered an iPod Nano 1st generation replacement battery (same as Giles has used). Motor/gearbox, servo and bevel gears arrived this morning in the post - not bad as they were only ordered yesterday afternoon. A few things to play with while my Ford Thames finds its way to these shores..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Tim, Many thanks for that link - I've read most of that information before - but never in such a consolidated and well laid- out fashion. Extremely valuable and clear. Much appreciated. I can't wait to see how yours develops - will you please post your progress??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Converting the Ford Thames has a few differences to the Morris. One is that the front wheels need building up internally to accept the flanged bearings. I did this with Milliput, and when hard, machined them back down, and bored them 5mm to accept the flanged bearings. Edited February 24, 2013 by Giles 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 the completed wheels with stub axle assemblies (silver-soldered together in a steel block) 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 It's necessary to implant more 2mm flanged bearings for the rear axle using a burr, and restrained with wire hoops (infilled with Milliput again) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 ....showing the ideal track rod/servo position, and the adjusting 'v' 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted February 24, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2013 Giles Great shots - most helpful. Do you drive both wheels then on the rear? I know there was previous discussion over just driving one wheel to act as a 'quasi' differential. I'm guessing you've not found this necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Both wheels are driven, and it seems to be fine....... ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Very cool - it's got me looking at 1:43 Unimogs now! Do you think it would be possible to do a 4WD one, Giles, based on your experience so far, or would that be pushing it a bit? I realise it would add a lot of complication to the front axle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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