2FS - Smokey Bacon

[nick_bastable]

Steve

 

good to see you back  

[Donw]

Very nicely explained Steve. The bit about checking the cranckpins are straight is important. I had a loco with slaters wheels and one hadn't gone straight took a while to spot.

Don

[Alex Duckworth]

Have you tried cellulose thinners to remove the old Maskol from your 57xx? There isn't much that it won't shift.

 

Alex.

[SteveBedding]

Have you tried cellulose thinners to remove the old Maskol from your 57xx? There isn't much that it won't shift.

 

Alex.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Alex, but I've tried most things without any success - white spirit, cellulose, acetone and a quick dose of unleaded petrol (but without the matches - though it may come to that!) The believe that the problem is that Maskol is carried in a water and ammonia based medium and once 'dried' it reverts to a form of synthetic latex which when allowed to over heat becomes all but impervious to these solvents.

 

As the 57xx was the first of the chassis I tried to build, I'm of a mind to put it down to experience - the etch itself is affordable and easily replaced and I think I could make a better job of it the second time.  All of the other bits (wheels, gears, muffs etc) are transferable and the 'leftovers' on the etch (ie brake blocks) could easily find themselves transferred to either a) replacement spares, b ) a Wolsley Works 52xx, or c) a 56xx scratch build chassis (I just need the body...)  So all in all no real loss other than the 'buggrit factor'!

 

Cheers all

[richbrummitt]

As the 57xx was the first of the chassis I tried to build, I'm of a mind to put it down to experience - the etch itself is affordable and easily replaced and I think I could make a better job of it the second time.  

 

Can you just not solder new bearings into the existing chassis? I might be missing something but if it's soldered it should be recoverable. Plus if it is the rear wheel drive chassis I don't think they are available any more: not so easily replaced.

[SteveBedding]

Thanks for the suggestion Rich - before finally commiting the chassis to the equivalent of Barry Island, I'm going to give it one last chance to redeem itself   I'll strip it right down and rebuild it (new spacers but may be able to save the bearings) - as 'flat' pieces, I may be able to get a better view and access to the inner bearings for cleaning...

[Kenokie]

Steve

 

Having followed your thread from early on I feel I need to post just to say thanks for detailed explanation of "how you did it". Like you I have noticed the tendency on other threads starting something interesting and then suddenly producing a completed version. I like you step by step approach. Coupled with a couple of other threads where blow by blow accounts have been posted I am learning a lot, and won't need to re-invent the wheel (sorry!).

 

The more detail the better.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[Calnefoxile]

 

@SteveBedding Just wondered how this is getting along??

 

There's been some talk amongst a few of the Club members about building an N Gauge version of Calne, so I've just purloined your Maps, hope you don't mind 

 

Cheers

 

Neal.

[SteveBedding]

Neal,

 

Feel free - sadly Smokie has ground to a halt for a number of years now.  I'ts not quite died, but rather in long term hibernation until the real world stops conspiring to put a spanner in every cunning plan I have

 

[bcnPete]

On 15/01/2020 at 14:26, SteveBedding said:

Neal,

 

Feel free - sadly Smokie has ground to a halt for a number of years now.  I'ts not quite died, but rather in long term hibernation until the real world stops conspiring to put a spanner in every cunning plan I have

 

Good to hear you are still out there Steve - last time we spoke I believe you had turned to the Darkside of 7mm...remember warning me against that 10 years ago?