2FS - Smokey Bacon

[Kris]

Ah ha a cunning use has been found for teenagers then

[SteveBedding]

Now that normality has been resumed (half term is over), I have been able to get back to the layout. I had (sort of) anticipated moving towards track laying, but as I looked afresh at where things were, I realised that there were still quite a number of little jobs that needed to be done first! So, before the fun - the 'floor' for the cassette's on board 3 (along with the cross braces) was finished and the scenic divide fitted. A couple of quick coats of primer and varnish and job's a good 'un...

 

Having previously worked out how to stick down the track plan (thanks again to all who contributed their wisdom and experiences), it was a simple, albeit time consuming, task to carry out. With the track plan fixed to boards 1 & 2, key features have been highlighted / marked-up...

 

...whilst most of the track-work is comprised of bullhead rail, one of the sidings (cattle / loading dock - black outlined area) remained using flat-bottom rails - this is indicated by the yellow highlighted section...

 

...and finally a close-up of the end of the loading dock. The flat-bottom rail can be seen, along with the placement of the 'track' across to the southern sidings (see the discussion in posts #48-#56); the blue highlighted section represents the area where the additional guard rails will need to be fitted. Finally, I have highlighted the locations of each of the tie-bar in red as a reminder - it also allowed a simple check of the fitting/spacing for the Tortoise motors.

 

I have to admit that as work on the actual track approaches, I am becoming increasingly apprehensive; although this is one of the main reasons why I chose 2mmFS over N, I am most definitely about to leave my comfort zone and jump into the deep end . The decision has been made - next week I'll start on the track for board 3; two curved points and simple track work - should be a reasonable starting point...

[Kris]

So far Steve everything that you have done, has been done really well, so I feel that you should have no worries with the track work.

[SteveBedding]

Thank you ...

 

Another slight diversion (or perhaps more procrastination…)

 

Since I could see the layout in its entirety (almost), this seemed an appropriate time to have a little play around and look at how the rolling stock would/could look…

...just a selection of the various passenger combinations that will be running:

 

14xx with Autocoach.

45xx with B-Set.

2251 (or other) with larger 'special' train.

 

(the 57xx is loitering around the factory sidings with a siphon)

These are straight out of the box and will need a lot of work to bring up to standard - there's enough to keep me going for a while yet!

 

The signal box and goods shed are correctly modelled for Calne; I was fortunate to have them made by David McDonald several years ago (when considering the layout in N); some of his other models can be in detail here.

 

 

...it's good to have a standard to aspire to...

[bcnPete]

Hi Steve

 

Nice progress - when I saw the post of the track plans laid I was going to suggest that you set out your stock on it...and lo and behold.....as I scrolled down further....

 

There is something very exciting about this stage of layout building...and mapping it out really helps to figure it out, gauge and check lengths etc

 

As Kris has said, every other step you have taken to date has been done well....so I am sure once you get stuck in to the trackwork it will be okay.

 

In anticipation.....

[Kris]

Toy's out alert.

Toy's out alert.

Toy's out alert.

 

 

You could add at 45xx and or 57xx + auto coach combo, after all some were auto fitted and you're close enough to Swindon to class it as a running in / testing turn.

57xx and B set is another combo.

Have you worked out how you're going to convert the 2251?

Great buildings, they give you a good head start.

[SteveBedding]

Shush Kris - SWMBO might think I'm having fun playing...

 

...You could add at 45xx and or 57xx + auto coach combo, after all some were auto fitted and you're close enough to Swindon to class it as a running in / testing turn.

57xx and B set is another combo.

Have you worked out how you're going to convert the 2251?

 

The actual scheduled running for Calne was mainly 54xx and 14xx with the auto-coach (from Chippenham & Westbury), and the 45xx with B-set or general stock (Bristol Bath Rd or Swindon). The 57xx were mainly reserved for freight traffic - but as you noted, almost anything could/did happen when stock (especially loco's) came out of Swindon ex-works.

 

This does however mean I have to find a way to convert a 57xx to represent a 54xx...

 

 

The conversion of the Farish 57xx is mainly cosmetic and will require the chimney and dome to be replaced; the curved top of the smoke box will need to be milled flat down to the level of the panniers, and the smoke box door will need to be replaced after it has been also milled flat. It will need a new chassis and larger wheels (5'2'' = 10mm rather than the 9/9.5mm used on the 4'7.5'' conversion) - this will need changes to the splashers.

 

All very simple in theory, but lets see what happens... ...I think I'll run 57xx in the meantime

 

As to converting the 2251 - I have absolutely no idea as yet

[Pilgrimsjulie]

Well SWMBO has caught you out then!!!! looks really great though must admit am really jealous at the fact I wasn't there to actually have a play too!!! I don't think you could call it actually serious research work:lol: Am really looking forward to attending one of my first shows tomorrow as I have been allowed to come to the High Wycombe one!! Not long now until I can actually help with it all:biggrin_mini2:

[SteveBedding]

To say that progress has been slow of late would be an understatement! Being laid up in bed for a week, with no inclination/ability to focus on the layout, was swiftly followed by the urgent task of getting ready for SWMBO to come home - it's taken 7 months for her 'internal transfer' at work to come through and for us to be collocated! Yippee :D

 

Upside - the 'chef' is coming home, no need to drive 150 miles at weekends, and scenery assistant will be on hand

;

Downside - must tidy house, may loose 'railway (dining) room', and remember that '

yes dear

...' is no longer a safe answer when she's in thumping range...

 

Anyway, some progress has been made - though more in the form of two steps forward, three leaps back... With the track plan on the boards, I have started to experiment with fixing down the sleepers for the crossover on board 3. I had had concerns over how well a PVA glue would work in stick to the varnished paper track plan but I was extremely/pleasantly surprised on how well it worked!

 

The copper clad sleeper will be used as the power feed - which then raised the question of exactly which position to put it! This was was on of those cases where although I had 'planned' where it should go, there was going to be no substitute for a practical test - also (as the PVA glue was so effective) lifting the sleeper if in the wrong place, was going to be a real nightmare...

 

Solution - build a 'crossing' and see exactly where it will fit! Out come the association jigs, some rail, and soldering equipment, and following lots of study of the Easitrac instructions and the Utube videos - a crossing is borne!

 

Ah! In my defence I wish to make it very clear that this is my first ever attempt at something like this... ...it looks better in the pictures than I think it is!

 

Whilst the concept is very clear, and the jigs make the process straightforward, in practice it is not as easy as it initially seems (I had sort of expected that ). I definitely need to practice making a number of these before I'll be happy... Several points do immediately spring to mind:

 

• Check the 'temperature' of the solder - I used old electrical solder which may be 225 rather than 188 that I had hoped,
• The aluminium jig is a major heat-sink which can be problematic,
• Make sure the wing rails don't slip when soldering...

There is nothing insurmountable in this so I reckon with practice they'll come together quite nicely. So in the meantime I'd better order some more rail and some proper solder and crack on.

 

Back soon...

[bcnPete]

Steve,

 

Your taking a risk with some of your introduction knowing that you 'double log in credentials' on here :lol:

 

Nice work on the crossing - how did you manage to get it out of the jig without it collapsing and what have you used to bond the rails together? I guess the answer to my second question may self explain my first one

 

Onwards and upwards...Only 40 days until 'you know what'

 

Pete

[Kris]

NIce looking crossing Steve. When I have built these, I have found that adding another supporting bit of etch connecting the wings and the vee is desirable to strengthen the structure. The jigs do make it all nice and easy don't they.

[SteveBedding]

Steve,

 

...how did you manage to get it out of the jig without it collapsing and what have you used to bond the rails together? I guess the answer to my second question may self explain my first one

 

 

Pete

 

Thanks for the comments. Like Kris said, I used pieces of scrap brass etch to make the cross braces. I had originally tried to use .5mm steel (spring) wire but this was not going to solder; in the end I used 0.0020" brass, approx 1mm (excuse mixed units) taken from the edges of old kit etches. Now I know why I hoard things - there'll always be a use for that piece of 'junk' that you carry around for ages This makes it a lot more robust and the whole crossing comes out of the jig quite easily.

 

Kris

 

Thanks for the tip - for future attempts I'll use at least four cross braces. I've a feeling that one of the suggestions from a previous workshop was to use 4 pieces, but for this one I simply followed the 3 positions marked up on the early jigs.

[Kris]

The scrap etch from kits seems to have so many different uses.

[bcnPete]

Thanks Steve,

 

I tried scrap etch, even some code 40 plain rail and still manage to cock it up each time...which is when I returned to PCB construction around the frog area - me and my ham fisted soldering skills

 

I think the jig has changed since then which may make it easier to release said common crossing from it.

 

Pete

[SteveBedding]

 

...I think the jig has changed since then which may make it easier to release said common crossing from it....

 

 

Pete

 

I think that there have been 3 iterations of the jig.

 

• Mk 1 - made from Paxolin with 'markers' for 3 cross pieces (this is the one shown in the Easitrac guide).

• Mk 2 - same as Mk 1 but made from milled aluminium. This apparently led to some problems with being too effective a heat-sink - initial feedback supposedly said soldering was limited to 145 solder...)

• Mk 3 - Milled aluminium (as per Mk 2) but with a large channel milled out from the underside (left to right) and the cut out under the rear of the nose (top to bottom). This was to firstly reduce heatsink effect, and secondly, to allow for better filleting of the nose. Additionally, the three 'markers' for the cross pieces have been omitted as these were only there as a guide and not necessarily applicable in all cases...

I got this info from the Easitrac workshop demo videos on Utube - better info maybe available from the VAG; I think if your jig is a Mk 2 then there is a way to get it changed/upgraded to a Mk 3, but again ask on the VAG.

 

Having made one crossing using the aluminium jig I do recognise that the heat-sinking effect is quite significant; that coupled with the 'wrong' type of solder made the finished item a bit of a hash. Never mind, I reckon I can get enough for 2 attempts per 500mm length of rail so I'll persevere and attempt to make several more before I really start to sulk...

 

I have a cunning plan on how to tackle the next one - so I just need to get out of work (!) so I can crack on with the important things

[Kris]

Thanks Steve,

 

I tried scrap etch, even some code 40 plain rail and still manage to cock it up each time...which is when I returned to PCB construction around the frog area - me and my ham fisted soldering skills

 

I think the jig has changed since then which may make it easier to release said common crossing from it.

 

Pete

 

I have a mk3 etch and have when using only 3 pieces of etch have experienced some minor issues in getting the frog out. When I have added a 4th piece of etch there have been no issues removing the frog. I have had twisting issues after removing the frog. I have found that the jigs are also very handy for making PCB points. Once out of the jig I try to get the frog into place asap to give it the extra stability.

 

Steve. That heat sink effect is a bit of a pain isn't it. I have used both normal electrical solder, (no idea of the melting point of this) and Carrs 188 solder paste.

 

 

 

[Pilgrimsjulie]

Well yippeeeee only 18 days to go then I be back home in the luxury of having 4 brick walls round me so when the howling winds are rushing round it wont sound like the whole thing is going to take off!!! With regards to the railway (dining) room that will and always has been up to interpretation on what room it is being used for but the railway room nearly always seems to win:rolleyes:. Well I will be really glad to be able to at least start to do some of the scenery.

I hope that father christmas doesnt think that Saturday at Warley means that all his bags needs to be filled:lol: especially as I won't be there to supervise the purse strings!!!

With that in mind I hope that all that are going have a really great time and I will be jealous as getting up at 4am to go to work isn't half as much fun as it would be if I was going there too.

 

Anyway must admit it is nice to see some work has been made even though very little but this side of things I wouldn't understand anyway!!

[bcnPete]

Steve - Many thanks for your response and potted history of the jig - I think I have Mk I and Mk II versions so it may be worth me getting hold of the last one. I don't have to build anymore turnouts now so it can wait a little...unless of course I add in that extra board of mine

 

Look forward to see how your cunning plan maps out...is that a cunning plan, and I quote, "so cunning, you could brush your teeth with it?"

[SteveBedding]

The cunning plan...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELXNOPoCVgg&feature=related

 

...ah, no not THAT cunning...

 

As has been discussed, the suggestion that the crossing can be held together with 3 cross pieces (shown in Red on the diagram below) can sometimes lead to instability - and with problems in removing from the jig itself. My particular experience was that the residual 'flex' in the wing rails caused the knuckle to form a pinch-point; whilst this would not be a problem with soldered rail, the Easitrac crossing is effectively suspended 'free-floating' and this constriction will cause later problems!

 

The 'cunning plan' is to use 4 cross braces (shown in Green)...

 

 

...this should improve the stability of the wing rails; the 5th brace (Yellow) is a possibility if still looks a bit 'iffy' . Additionally, having 2 braces on the wing rail will act to straighten the last part of the length before the knuckle thus easing the alignment of the wheels as they hit the nose.

 

One last thing I have learnt in all this is just how damned hard it is to see which is the right way up for 2mm bullhead rail! Even with my most powerful magnifier it is difficult to get a really clear view of the end profile... ...I now suspect that my previous test track was built upside down - oops . However, a simple indication has been identified from one of the workshop videos - the bottom is rounded!

 

Well, club night tonight, ironing tomorrow, school run Friday, Warley on Sat - there goes another week

[Kris]

Those 4 in green are more or less where I have put them except the one on the frog which I have put where you have the yellow line.

[bcnPete]

Those 4 in green are more or less where I have put them except the one on the frog which I have put where you have the yellow line.

 

Very cunning Kris

[SteveBedding]

Those 4 in green are more or less where I have put them except the one on the frog which I have put where you have the yellow line.

 

Thanks for that Kris. The more I look at it, I can see that your suggestion makes more sence than my original idea. Well, I think that if can persuade myself to postpone the ironing for another couple of days, then I might give version 2 a go this evening....

[bcnPete]

Must admit...I thought the idea in general was to align the cross pieces with the sleeper positions so they become less hidden than using ballast - I recall that Dave M (Kylestrome) did this by first making a template in clear perspex to get the best positions so as to coincide with the sleepers - from memory, he did a splendid job.

[Kris]

Thanks for that Kris. The more I look at it, I can see that your suggestion makes more sence than my original idea. Well, I think that if can persuade myself to postpone the ironing for another couple of days, then I might give version 2 a go this evening....

 

 

Ironing, er what's that? I'm sure it's not needed.

 

 

[bcnPete]

Ironing, er what's that? I'm sure it's not needed.

 

Leave it...apparently, the 'crumpled look' is very 'in' at the mo...

 

Alternatively...better get that ironing knocked out quick Steve, as the pile is going to double quite soon, if I interpret your posts correctly