Jan Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 LRM Hornblock Alignment Jigs by Jan original page on Old RMweb __________________________________________ ??? posted on Fri Aug 15, 2008 3:01 pm Hi, A question regarding London Road 1/8" Alignment Jigs (set of three) ??????‚??3.50; are they the simple coned type a la Markits, or are they the more helpful 'spring-between-the-frames' type avec coupling rod extension bosses (I'm hoping it's those, because I'm looking for some, but I'm doubtful because of the price!). Cheers Jan __________________________________________ Comment posted by Horsetan on Fri Aug 15, 2008 4:24 pm They are the coned type __________________________________________ Comment posted by craigwelsh on Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:27 pm Hobby holidays who sell the master chassis can sell you an ideal spring to chop in half and stick between the frames of your kit for use with the LRM models coned jigs. I used this on my 28xx chassis OMWB, it worked well although I need to pin the quartering on the wheels before I progress further. __________________________________________ Comment posted by LNWRmodeller on Sat Aug 16, 2008 7:12 am Jan wrote: Hi, A question regarding London Road 1/8" Alignment Jigs (set of three) ??????‚??3.50; are they the simple coned type a la Markits, or are they the more helpful 'spring-between-the-frames' type avec coupling rod extension bosses (I'm hoping it's those, because I'm looking for some, but I'm doubtful because of the price!). Cheers Jan They are the more useful "taper end" type (devised by Iain Rice, I believe) which can be used with any coupling rods irrespective of the crankpin hole diameter. LRM have been unable to be able to supply suitable "strength" springs as they have been unable to buy them in small enough quantities (usually a minimum of 10,000 has been quoted). I also have a set of the "stepped end" jigs (Puffers/Perseverence, IIRC) which came with springs. These are okay with the "top hat" type of crankpin bush (Sharman, Gibson) but not suitable for Markits/Romfords as I recall - I haven't used any of the latter wheels/crankpins for a while. The springs are strong enough to bend .015" or .018" N/S frames outwards if used. If the springs were much softer, then they might not hold the hornblocks sufficiently. I've not yet been able to find a supplier of suitable springs but keep looking. I clamp the hornblocks in place using sprung "soldering clamps" (aluminium hair grips). Incidentally, your statement should read "Markits - a la London Road". LRM introduced them originally, they were then copied by Mark Arscott of Markits. Jol Wilkinson __________________________________________ ??? posted on Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:50 pm craigwelsh wrote: Hobby holidays who sell the master chassis can sell you an ideal spring to chop in half and stick between the frames of your kit for use with the LRM models coned jigs. I used this on my 28xx chassis OMWB, it worked well although I need to pin the quartering on the wheels before I progress further. Hi Craig, Thanks for the info; I've been considering pinning wheels to axles, but I'm not sure how to go about it...any pointers? Cheers Jan __________________________________________ ??? posted on Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:57 pm LNWRmodeller wrote: I also have a set of the "stepped end" jigs (Puffers/Perseverence, IIRC) which came with springs. These are okay with the "top hat" type of crankpin bush (Sharman, Gibson) but not suitable for Markits/Romfords as I recall - I haven't used any of the latter wheels/crankpins for a while. The springs are strong enough to bend .015" or .018" N/S frames outwards if used. If the springs were much softer, then they might not hold the hornblocks sufficiently. I've not yet been able to find a supplier of suitable springs but keep looking. I clamp the hornblocks in place using sprung "soldering clamps" (aluminium hair grips). Incidentally, your statement should read "Markits - a la London Road". LRM introduced them originally, they were then copied by Mark Arscott of Markits. Jol Wilkinson Hi Jol, Thanks for your response. What's happened to Puffers? I've been out of the country for a couple of years, and their site is a no-show. I've been searching high and low on t'internet for purveyors of the spring type. I didn't realise the Markits jigs were like the LRM ones, mainly due to the latter not having any piccies of said beast! Cheers Jan PS: apologies to the Mods if I'm dragging the 'Wanted' board away from its intended subject. __________________________________________ Comment posted by LNWRmodeller on Sat Aug 16, 2008 3:18 pm Hi Jol, Thanks for your response. What's happened to Puffers? I've been out of the country for a couple of years, and their site is a no-show. I've been searching high and low on t'internet for purveyors of the spring type. I didn't realise the Markits jigs were like the LRM ones, mainly due to the latter not having any piccies of said beast! Cheers Jan PS: apologies to the Mods if I'm dragging the 'Wanted' board away from its intended subject. Jan, If you do a search for Puffers here on RMWeb you'll find several threads about them. IIRC the most recent gave an update on their current situation. They used to be very good when based in Kenton (John Redrup, LRM's proprietor used to run the "finescale dungeon"), but they seem to have declined since they moved north. Jol __________________________________________ Comment posted by Horsetan on Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:28 am The Puffers website was recently deleted.....apparently in March 2008. Looks like you'll either have to telephone them or make a personal visit. __________________________________________ ??? posted on Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:55 am Horsetan wrote: The Puffers website was recently deleted.....apparently in March 2008. Looks like you'll either have to telephone them or make a personal visit. Hi Horsetan, Thanks for the confirmation. A personal visit might be stretching it from deepest, wettest Plymouth, but I'll phone them sometime. Cheers Jan __________________________________________ Comment posted by craigwelsh on Mon Aug 18, 2008 11:06 am Jan wrote: craigwelsh wrote: Hobby holidays who sell the master chassis can sell you an ideal spring to chop in half and stick between the frames of your kit for use with the LRM models coned jigs. I used this on my 28xx chassis OMWB, it worked well although I need to pin the quartering on the wheels before I progress further. Hi Craig, Thanks for the info; I've been considering pinning wheels to axles, but I'm not sure how to go about it...any pointers? Cheers Jan Drill very carefully across the boss and axle and then araldite the wire in. Haven't taken the courageous step of trying it yet though! I might need to get more expensive drill bits for the steel. I also intend to secure the crankpins in place with a piece of wire in a hole and then soldered to the slot in the screw. __________________________________________ ??? posted on Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:43 pm craigwelsh wrote: Jan wrote: craigwelsh wrote: Hobby holidays who sell the master chassis can sell you an ideal spring to chop in half and stick between the frames of your kit for use with the LRM models coned jigs. I used this on my 28xx chassis OMWB, it worked well although I need to pin the quartering on the wheels before I progress further. Hi Craig, Thanks for the info; I've been considering pinning wheels to axles, but I'm not sure how to go about it...any pointers? Cheers Jan Drill very carefully across the boss and axle and then araldite the wire in. Haven't taken the courageous step of trying it yet though! I might need to get more expensive drill bits for the steel. I also intend to secure the crankpins in place with a piece of wire in a hole and then soldered to the slot in the screw. Aye. I think that's about only option. Of course, with 3'6" drivers, there's not a lot of room for error. I was wondering about sawing a slot in the end of the axle and fixing a couple of 'L' shaped pins in (using a quick application of the soldering iron to transfer heat along the securing pin and melt the boss of the wheel): ....of course, this is all HIGHLY theoretical; needless to say, I've not put heat to plastic! Any comments (of either polarity) more than welcome: It may have been done already, as well! Cheers Jan __________________________________________ Comment posted by Captain Kernow on Mon Aug 18, 2008 2:56 pm Jan wrote: ....of course, this is all HIGHLY theoretical; needless to say, I've not put heat to plastic! Any comments (of either polarity) more than welcome: I have found this to be more theoretical than practical, I found myself getting very quickly concerned that the heat would damage the plastic centres of the wheel and also affect the fit of said wheel centre on the axle. I'd opt for the drilling and pinning, if I were you.... __________________________________________ ??? posted on Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:53 pm Captain Kernow wrote: Jan wrote: ....of course, this is all HIGHLY theoretical; needless to say, I've not put heat to plastic! Any comments (of either polarity) more than welcome: I have found this to be more theoretical than practical, I found myself getting very quickly concerned that the heat would damage the plastic centres of the wheel and also affect the fit of said wheel centre on the axle. I'd opt for the drilling and pinning, if I were you.... Hi CK, Aye Cap'n; 'e speaks the truth. So... any troubles with drilling and pinning wee wheels? Cheers Jan __________________________________________ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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