Help switching point polarity

[TomJ]

I realised on my last layout that my poor running was due to relying on the switch blades making contact to carry the current, which more often than not they didn't! So this time I've read up on how to switch the point polarity. I'm using DC with n gauge peco code 55 with peco point motors and their accessory switch attached underneath. On 4 of the 5 points this has worked brilliantly but one siding remains stubbonly dead. If I put a screwdriver between the two rails it works suggesting the current is going through the blades. All the wires seem to be in the right place and firmly soldered and the point motor works. Am I missing something? Electrics are far from my strong point and doing this is about my limit! All help/suggestions gratefully recieved, it's starting to frustrate me!

[smokebox]

Could be a faulty switch

[smudgeloco]

Info needed.

Insulfrog or livefrog?

Screwdriver between which two rails?

Any chance of a diagram?

[TomJ]

Thanks, I hadn't considered that. All switches are new but I guess it's not impossible I dodgy one got through. Is there a simple way of testing this other than installing it and waiting to see if it works?

[TomJ]

Just to add, it's live frog points. I'm new to this game and not able to post a diagram but basically there is a wire from each of the two rails on the toe end to the two attachments on the switch and a wire from the frog to the third terminal so I think the frog should be the same polarity as whichever rail it's set too. However the track beyond the point is dead unless I touch a screwdriver between the blade and the outside rail, so relying on the point to conduct. This is starting to make me think it maybe a dodgy switch as it's basically behaving as if the switch wasn't there at all. It's not shorting out or anything to suggest crossed wires, just not working!

 

Many thanks for the help, I'm glad I joined rmweb

[Karhedron]

Peco accessory switches use a rather crude arrangement resembling a washer and wiper to switch contact. They then charge a suprising amount for these items.

 

A lot of people favour getting microswitches from somewhere like Maplins as these are cheaper and more reliable. The only downside is that they are not manufactured to simply plug onto the point motors. But a little work with glue and screw will usually give a more reliable electrical connection.

[Suzie]

The PL13 switch is very unreliable. The PL15 is much better.

 

 

 

 

 

[beast66606]

The switch may not be centred so the wipers aren't making contact when the motor is fired.

 

The switch can be checked off the point if you have a simple meter (and other ways before I get 1X10^6 replies to tell me that) - always worth getting a nice cheap one, lots of places do them for a few quid nowadays, useful for continuity testing - get one which beeps or buzzes.

[96701]

Check your soldered connections to the rail. A dry joint might not conduct.

[TomJ]

Thanks for all the advice chaps. I have borrowed an electrical metre thing and it seems it was indeed a faulty switch. Not entirely surprising as I rescued it from some old points. As someone who's new to all this the advice to get a continuity metre was priceless, much better than attaching all the wires and hoping for the best! I've decided to stick with the peco switches as even these are about the limit of my electrical skills but will test themnow before installing

 

thanks again, this advice to a newbie is what makes the forumso good