DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[Tony Teague]

And the next is....

The splasher boxes inside the cab.  On one side the driving wheel flange is scraping the top of the box.  A quick look shows that the boxes are different heights, and one is too low....

 

Could that be why it kept going round in circles?

[hayfield]

And the next is....

The splasher boxes inside the cab.  On one side the driving wheel flange is scraping the top of the box.  A quick look shows that the boxes are different heights, and one is too low....

 

 

DLT

 

Nothing as complicated as your build, but I recently obtained a loco where the cab had been badly built resulting in the roof not fitting. I found that somehow the builder had fitted the cab sides 1 mm too high, The Royal Mail had come to my rescue as their spin dryer had loosened the glue on some of the joints of the cab sides and roof (whitemetal) so after a little more work the parts were removed and cleaned up prior to reassembly and all is now fine.

 

There is something very satisfying in finding the problem and being able to sort it out, as I said nothing as complicated as you are doing

[DLT]

Nothing to see here....

Edited November 16, 2018 by DLT

[DLT]

DLT

Nothing as complicated as your build, but I recently obtained a loco where the cab had been badly built resulting in the roof not fitting. I found that somehow the builder had fitted the cab sides 1 mm too high, The Royal Mail had come to my rescue as their spin dryer had loosened the glue on some of the joints of the cab sides and roof (whitemetal) so after a little more work the parts were removed and cleaned up prior to reassembly and all is now fine.

 

I acquired a part-built whitemetal kit some years ago, that appeared to have been assembled with Araldite.  On closer inspection it turned out to be Evo-Stick Impact glue. 

So the whole thing was dunked in white-spirit for a while, and reduced itself to a kit again

 

There is something very satisfying in finding the problem and being able to sort it out, 

 

Absolutely, a feeling of triumph.

 

All the best, Dave.

Edited November 16, 2018 by DLT

[DLT]

Another issue I haven't touched on yet, is the lack of weight.  Often a perennial  problem with a minimalist etched-kit, this one should be no problem.  There's plenty of space in those massive splashers for a layer or two of lead sheet, as I did with the K10.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Right now I'm working on getting video on to the Forum.  I want to prove that this loco is working!

[DLT]

Right, lets try this.  My first ever video upload.

 

 

 

It works!  (the video that is, I knew the loco worked)

All seems a bit of a palarvar, getting it from my phone to the computer, or can I upload to here directly from Icloud?

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited November 20, 2018 by DLT

[Sandhole]

Right, lets try this.  My first ever video upload.

 

 

 

It works!  (the video that is, I knew the loco worked)

All seems a bit of a palarvar, getting it from my phone to the computer, or can I upload to here directly from Icloud?

 

Cheers, Dave.

Smooth!!

                  C.

[Tony Teague]

Amazing! A transformation!

Tony

[Jack P]

Dave, looks fantastic as always. A very interesting prototype indeed,

 

As for simplifying the transfer of phone to PC to website etc - download the 'Youtube' App on your phone, and then upload directly to there from your phone, this should then mean that you only need to grab the link for the video when you're on the PC and simply add it to the post.

 

Hopefully this is clear as mud.

Edited November 23, 2018 by Jack P

[DLT]

Thanks Jack, I will give it a try.

 

I think I've sorted the main bogie issues  With it free to flop around in all directions, it very quickly hit the slidebars and jammed the crossheads.  So I've arranged it so that the bogie now has no sideways movement, only a pivoting movement. 

The pivot point is now above the rear axle of the bogie, so that only the front end has any sideways movement.

 

I'll get some photos up later which should explain it better.

 

Cheers, Dave.

[N15class]

Best way to do it in 4mm.

[DLT]

regarding bogie swing. On my still under construction Adams 4.4.0, I solved the bogie swing issue by making the chassis effectively a 2.6.0 with just the front bogie wheels pivoting. It's barely noticeable and solves the clearance issue perfectly.

 

In 4mm Dave I always pivoted the bogie on or just behind the rear axle. If you then put an arched slot for the central fixing screw, it can either be sprung or used as the point of the triangle for compensation. Which is my preferred method for 0-4-4 or 4-4-0s.

I was going to scratch build a T6 in 7mm, but will instead be going for an X6.

Watching with interest.

 

Thanks Peter, yes I omitted to credit your ideas. 

My initial thought was to make it a 2-6-0 as Denbridge suggested, but I thought I would test this method before I started hacking the bogie around.

I'll do some more extensive testing today, but last night it ran through the crossovers on Charmouth without any problem.  The minimum radius is "officially" 30 inches, but in some places I reckon its quite a bit tighter.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited November 25, 2018 by DLT

[DLT]

Here is the new bogie mounting arrangement, with the pivot point at the rear axle.  The mounting point on the loco is the original pivot point.

I think the photos should be fairly self-explanatory.

 

 

 

The underside view shows the large lump of lead added to the bogie to help hold it down.

 

 

 

Hmmmm, clear as mud?

[DLT]

And here it is in action.  Going through my crossovers as some speed is a pretty tough test for any chassis, and the bogie stays on the track!

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Another issue was that the wheels were a bit under-gauge, the back-to-back was down to about 14.2mm.  Not a huge issue but will have an effect.

 

Anyway, the estimable Brian Mosby came to my rescue.  On his 247 Developments stand at the Taunton show, I found these:

 

 

6thou washers for shimming Romford/Markits axles, to widen the BtB. 

 

Perfect, thanks Brian!

Dave.

Edited November 25, 2018 by DLT

[DavidB]

Cracking job Dave - that's a very tidy piece of work.

 

David

[John M]

Here is the new bogie mounting arrangement, with the pivot point at the rear axle.  The mounting point on the loco is the original pivot point.

I think the photos should be fairly self-explanatory.

 

IMG_4084 small.jpg

 

IMG_4088 small.jpg

 

The underside view shows the large lump of lead added to the bogie to help hold it down.

 

IMG_4109 small.jpg

 

IMG_4098 small.jpg

 

Hmmmm, clear as mud?

I will probably go with a similar arrangement with my Backwoods Miniatures Cavan & Leitrim 4-4-0Ts & my planned broad gauge engines.

 

I had similar problems with wheels shorting against the frames on the C&L locos and sticking on one of the curves on the main line.

 

Interesting co-incidence giving the W Adams influence in the styling right down to stove pipe chimney with the original locos.

[DLT]

I will probably go with a similar arrangement with my Backwoods Miniatures Cavan & Leitrim 4-4-0Ts & my planned broad gauge engines.

 

I had similar problems with wheels shorting against the frames on the C&L locos and sticking on one of the curves on the main line.

 

Interesting co-incidence giving the W Adams influence in the styling right down to stove pipe chimney with the original locos.

 

Seems to be working a treat.  Wish I had used this method on some previous locos!

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Right, running trials...

 

Running fine with body resting on chassis.  Body screwed on, no good - Twisted body straightened.

Still no good, cab front now pressing on gearbox - cut lumps off cab front.

Scraping noise, now body is sitting lower, driving wheels scraping inside cab splashers again - splashers filed back, again.

Still scraping noise, far end of motor shaft rubbing against inside of boiler former - 1mm filed off motor shaft

Still some scraping and hesitation on curves, front bogie wheels touching massive splitpin retaining the Romford front-coupling - removed, will glue coupling in place.

 

That SEEMS to be all the running snags sorted (for now) time to add some weight.

 

A tip by the way, if you suspect wheels touching in a location you can't see, apply black felt-tip pen to the area and run again.  Anywhere touching will then show up as bright metal where the ink has been scraped off.

 

Cheers, Dave.

[PaulRhB]

Tips noted fascinating stuff thanks Dave.

[DLT]

Still more snagging coming up, had to file a few lumps off the edges and corners of the chassis, where the body was distorting it.  While I was doing this one of the crossheads decided to disintegrate, but it was a quickish job to solder it back together.

We're getting there!

Dave.

[sej]

Really useful master class in how to build a great running loco, thanks very much for posting Dave! Does anyone have a copy of the instructions for the Jidenco T6 as an additional aid for me to build the same kit?

 

Cheers

Simon

[Tony Teague]

I admire your perseverance!

[DLT]

Thanks very much guys.

 

I really didn't want to show you any pictures of the body underside, but these two show how I've added weight.

Firstly pieces of sheet (roof flashing) cut to fit inside the splashers, two in each splasher.

 

 

And then a couple of lumps shaped to fit inside the boiler and just clear of the gearbox.

 

 

I think this is enough to provide sufficient traction and pickup.  I haven't weighed it, but its probably about as heavy as the K10 now.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited November 28, 2018 by DLT