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DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit


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6 hours ago, KalKat said:

Ah.... but then paypal , bank transfer or.........?

 

6 hours ago, Tim Dubya said:

Dunno, couldn't find that bit :)

 

That is explained in the email with the invoice.  The payment choice is bank transfer, or send a cheque.

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1 hour ago, DLT said:

 

 

That is explained in the email with the invoice.  The payment choice is bank transfer, or send a cheque.

Hi Dave et al

 

I used the bank transfer method of payment and the goods arrived with me 5 days from ordering, I might expect that the current situation could add a bit of time.

I have used mine (just the once so far) and was very happy, here is a link to my photo of it in use: -
Bryan's Workbench
(BTW Mine is the 4 axle jig)

Edited by gz3xzf
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Motor and gearbox assembled, and runs beautifully with a standard Gaugemaster.  The motor is a 1320 round can, and looks really small after working with Mashima flat cans for so long.

I want to crack on and assemble the chassis, but having ordered the Poppys Loco Box, I guess I had better wait until it arrives!

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14 hours ago, DLT said:

The motor is a 1320 round can, and looks really small after working with Mashima flat cans for so long.

 Meant to say, its the new Highlevel motor.

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Hi David/John,

 

1320 in my DJH A2/3 and it looks too small for the size and weight of this loco. I can confirm though that it is very powerful with lots of torque and is very silent.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B1397105546_002(2).JPG.ac7c71a9fdacefe396ad0d90342f42ec.JPG

 

 

 

 

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45 minutes ago, DLT said:

but by pushing the whole thing against the side of the jig with a  straight edge to solder the second side on, (photo 3) you keep everything flat, straight and right-angled.

 

This is exactly what I'd thought i'm glad to see it works! Looking fantastically neat and tidy as per usual.

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8 hours ago, Jack P said:

 

This is exactly what I'd thought i'm glad to see it works! Looking fantastically neat and tidy as per usual.

 

2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

That's exactly how I use the Poppy's jigs as well - I've never used frame building jigs before but these are simple, cheap and very good.

 

This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how.

 

But an excellent well thought out piece of kit at a competitive price, and a decent length of rod for crankpins 

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27 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

 

This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how.

 

But an excellent well thought out piece of kit at a competitive price, and a decent length of rod for crankpins 

I've got one of these boxes, and have used it to assemble several compensated chassis (using High Level's hornblocks). I bought one after seeing a fellow member of the local Scalefour area group use one.

 

Assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks pushed into place in the frames, fit the dummy axles and coupling rods (to get the hornblocks to the correct spacing), and then solder them in place. Doing this with the chassis resting on the hornblock bearings (so at the top extent of their vertical travel) hasn't caused me any problems - the last chassis I built this was ran with no adjustment of the coupling rods at all. 

 

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49 minutes ago, pete_mcfarlane said:

I've got one of these boxes, and have used it to assemble several compensated chassis (using High Level's hornblocks). I bought one after seeing a fellow member of the local Scalefour area group use one.

 

Assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks pushed into place in the frames, fit the dummy axles and coupling rods (to get the hornblocks to the correct spacing), and then solder them in place. Doing this with the chassis resting on the hornblock bearings (so at the top extent of their vertical travel) hasn't caused me any problems - the last chassis I built this was ran with no adjustment of the coupling rods at all. 

 

 

Pete

 

Thanks for explaining the method, I have watched Derek's (Eileen's Emporium) video on using the Avonside chassis jig where you fit the hornblocks to the sides first then assemble the chassis on the jig, but compensated chassis have been built long before these jigs were thought of. so there are alternative build methods. 

 

These Poppy's jigs are certainly liked by those who use them and seem excellent value

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3 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

 

This is exactly how I have seen it used before and how you assemble the frames on the expensive jigs, what I do not understand is if you can use hornblocks in it, and if yes how.

 

 

I very rarely use hornblocks but it works fine in just the same way.

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With this jig you fit the hornblocks after the frames are assembled.  One way is to assemble the frames on the jig before cutting out the hornways. You can fit bearings into the axles to be compensated, and assemble the chassis on the jig as if it was a normal rigid chassis (as per the above photo). Then cut the hornways out very carefuly with a piercing saw. 

 

Once that's done, you can assemble the chassis on the jig with the hornblocks in place and everything held together by a combination of gravity, the jig axles and the coupling rods. There's a photo about halfway down this page of my High Level Barclay tank (which uses a combination of beams and hornblocks) on the jig which probably explains things better . 

 

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=4904&start=25

 

 

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Pete

 

Thanks, I see there are blue retaining collets for the axles, so this would stop the axles sliding out, as do the bits of tube holding the coupling rods in position.

 

I guess with this arrangement you could lay the jig on its side and work on each frame separately to fit the hornblocks prior to soldering both sides of the chassis together.

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Pete

 

You would still use both sets of coupling rods, the axles are held in place by plastic collets, and the coupling rods likewise by the small bore plastic tube ( presumably from electrical multi strand wire insulation)

 

May need a cradle, and be a bit cumbersome, but it works much the same way as the more expensive jigs 

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If you want to assemble the frames that way, I'm wondering if it would be easier to use the rods as a template for drilling pilot holes in a length of bar or block of hardwood (using a pillar drill to ensure accuracy). Open them out to 1/8", fit spare Gibson axles, and you've got a jig.  

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Hi Folks,

 

This is a very interesting discussion, about the finer points of using the Poppy's Jigs. 

I'm always pleased to read your advice/comments/opinions,  but would the current discussion on the fitting of hornblocks be more appropriate in the actual Chassis Jigs topic ? 

See here:  https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/156485-chassis-jigs/page/2/  Its where others will look for advice

 

Cheers, Dave,

 

 

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One thing I DIDN'T say about the chassis, is that when I made new spacers, I made them slightly wider than the supplied 00 spacers.  if built as supplied you end up with sideplay on all axles, and you take this up by adding washers.  Seems a bit odd, so I'vr made the chassis wider, and provided sideplay where necessary (on the second and fourth axles) by thinning down the bearing bosses.

 

I guess the provision of unnecesarily narrow frames in 00 is a legacy of old open-frames motor days, when the chassis was designed for the motor to fit on top of it, with  worm & wheel gearing and no gearbox.  The wider the frames, the more space you have to get a gearbox in.

 

Cheers, Dave.

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