Smiffy2 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I really like the idea of the tubes to mount the brake hangers. That's just removed a block to finishing a Comet Terrier chassis. Could I ask the size and provenance of the tube, please? And what will you use for blackening, and do you include the rods and wheels? Sorry for so many questions, but I'm finding this thread very instructive and inspirational. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I do it in a similar method but put the tube on the brake hanger and cut the wire in the frame quite short. Then the brake gear can be clipped into place after painting and assembling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I do it in a similar method but put the tube on the brake hanger and cut the wire in the frame quite short. Then the brake gear can be clipped into place after painting and assembling. That's exactly what I'm after. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 2, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Hi Smiffy, The tube is 1.6mm outside diameter, a standard brass section. Can't remember for the life of me where I got it from, I've had it for years, but try Eileens Emporium. I use Carrs Metalblack for Brass for general blackening, available from C&L Finescale. Its the same stuff as Birchwood Casey, and its absolutely brilliant. I blacken everything, including the rods and wheels, and it all looks like oily steel. I first de-grease the parts as best I can and then give them a good scrub with old-fashioned scouring powder (Ajax, Vim) and an old toothbrush. This can take quite a bit of rinsing off, and a dip in an Ultrasonic Cleaning Bath is a really good move. Once clean and dry I dunk it and brush it with the Metalblack. When rinsed and dried it looks like this: Ready for a waft of Halfords matt black and then assembly. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Does it work on nickel silver? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 2, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2015 The chassis is nickel-silver, the bearings are brass, the wheels are steel. It works on all three! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2015 The chassis is nickel-silver, the bearings are brass, the wheels are steel. It works on all three! It doesnt really work on whitemetal or solder, but it does darken it a bit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2015 Its alive! We have a running chassis, assembled wiht the excellent GW Models wheel/quartering press. Photos later. Dave. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 very satisfying moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 8, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2015 The layout of the drive system with the gearbox horizontal has led to some issues with fitting pickups on the rear drivers. I have a slightly unconventional solution that seems to be working, I will detail it later. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) All pickups sorted and the chassis runs beautifully, even without any added weight. Pickups to the front four wheels are pretty conventional, even if they are a bit on the long and spidery side; the pickup plate is screwed to a chassis spacer. The position of the gearbox left no obvious access for pickups on the rear wheels. So I added a second plate, araldited between the ashpan sides and resting against the bottom of the gearbox. This has just about provided access to the rear drivers. I considered Backscratchers, but they would have been just as awkward on this loco, if not more so, and I certainly wanted to avoid plungers. The rear pickup wires are a bit bright at the moment, but once blackened and obscured behind the brake rodding they won't be obvious. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 12, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) Always one of the fiddliest bits is the brake gear, but think I'm getting the hang of it now. I've described its construction before so I won't bore you with it again. With the pull-rods being outside the wheels this time I didnt have the option of screwing it all to an extra chassis spacer, so its fixed by the hanging points. Apart from that it all went together perfectly well. Its not obvious at first but close study of photographs shows that the pull rods are cranked out the outer ends to clear the wheels; a very useful feature on a model. Photographs are no help in determining what happens at the centre hanger, as in the classic 3/4 front view its neatly hidden behind the footstep. I've left it straight. The support rod passing right through the chassis is visible for the centre hangers, all the bits need trimming to final length. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norwenglish Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 After reading through this thread from the beginning I have to say your work is incredibly inspiring! I may have to try my hand at some soldering sometime in the not too distant future, but you and many others here on RMWeb make it look incredibly easy with the neatness of your work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Hi Dave Love the way this is coming along, when I did the High level loco they gave you in the kit a clip on former to get the brake block set right, a very handy little fret for doing this. which I kept for later kits. Very neat way you have done them on the 700, can not wait till the next up date. Darren 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted February 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2015 Just for completeness, to go back to Dave's last build the Adams A12, as you know I have given this exquisite model a new home and yesterday it made its debut on Fisherton Sarum at the Risex show so here is a picture of her in action on a secondary Yeovil to Salisbury service coupled to a ex LSWR Ironclad rake. Thanks Dave! Now back to the 700 build... 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 22, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks for the photo Graham, she looks great on the layout actually working for a living. Will she need some more weathering to "fit in" with the rest of your stock when on shed? All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 24, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2015 (edited) Yet again I seem to be apologising for the lack of progress.... I had problems with the tender underframe as it just would not sit level, and in trying to improve it I b***sed it up completely. At least it pushed me into doing what I wanted to do initially which was rebuild it with pickup arrangements built in. The original arrangement made it very awkward to fit pickups. More later, Cheers, Dave. Edited February 24, 2015 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hi Dave Sounds like the under frame for the tender gave you some problems?, will PDK send you a new set?, what i have seen so far looks good. Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Where's to pic'es Dave?. I Have done three PDK kits and have not had that much trouble with them, I hope my W Class goes together better then that 700 Class. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 24, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 24, 2015 Hi Ray, Where's to pic'es Dave?. later, later.. I Have done three PDK kits and have not had that much trouble with them, I hope my W Class goes together better then that 700 Class. The kit goes together really well, but I can never resist trying to "improve" matters... There was nothing wrong with the tender chassis; I have to admit that I messed it up whilst trying to improve it, and then made it worse trying to fix it! I have now rescued the situation, but there's not much to show yet. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 6, 2015 (edited) Right, tender chassis is sorted at last. Note to self: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I made a new top-plate for the chassis using circuit-board, and soldered the kit frames to it having lowered them accordingly. I also added 2mm bearings rather that the plain holes in the frames. Tender brakegear was as it came from the kit, but I added the tube mounting points in the frames (same as on the loco chassis) to make removal easier. Wheels were blackened before assembly. You can see how a length of wire passes through the tube to support the brakehangers. Nickel-silver wire pickups are soldered to the circuitboard, bearing very lightly on the wheels treads. Power transfer will be via trailing wire and plug/socket underneath, same arrangement as on the Jubilee. Cheers, Dave. Edited March 8, 2018 by DLT 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAY NORWOOD Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hi Dave It is really looking good Dave. I hope my W class comes up the same quality. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 WoW that looks the biz Dave,she coming on well now. Torrington shed has been told they will be getting a new loco soon, the crew are very happy about this. Well done Sir. Darren 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 How are you going to isolate the top of the frames from the tender body? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 8, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2015 How are you going to isolate the top of the frames from the tender body? OzzyO. Hi Ozzy, I've removed enough of the tender footplate internally so that there is nothing to touch the electrically live bits of the chassis top. I'll see if i can get a photo of the inside, but it will show all the horrible internal soldering! Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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