DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[Horsetan]

....what really makes it awkward is the presence of the cabside cutout so close to the curve. ....

^^

This.

 

See also 14xx, various GNR(I) 4-4-0s, etc.

[DLT]

Chassis is all soldered together now, and as often happens I made my own spacers as the 00 etched ones were too narrow.  At times I've filed down the EM spacers to get the right width, but this time made my own "L" shaped ones.

Pickups will be Backscratchers or possibly above-frame mounted wipers; the brakegear and spring detail making conventional below-frame wipers too awkward.

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

A bit more progress.  As i don't have the motor and gearbox yet, I've gone ahead with my least favourite (and fiddliest) job of all, the brakegear.  A job I usually leave till last!

Anyway its gone together ok by my usual method  and is just as fragile as usual.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[number6]

 with my least favourite (and fiddliest) 

 

Careful! Famous last words and all that...

[DLT]

Careful! Famous last words and all that...

 

You're right, I shouldn't say things like that....

[DLT]

Once the motor and gearbox are fitted I can build the pickup arrangement around them, and that is the chassis pretty much finished.

 

The bodywork is not quite so easy.  As this is an original Wills kit, it was designed to fit around the Hornby Dublo 0-6-0 chassis, leading to various dimensions being out.  In particular the splashers are too close to the tanks, and the bunker is too short.

 

 

 

 

 

So I think its going to be a case of trying to remove the parts from the footplate casting (or remove the footplate from the parts...)  and fit them to a new PCB footplate.  Much as did with the O2. (see page 1)

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[BlueLightning]

Watching with interest as I sit looking at my Wills E5 which currently has no chassis.

 

Gary

[number6]

Here is how the E5X [red] compares to the standard E5 [black]. These of course are not the dimensions in the Wills kit - so it is only a suggestion of how much Dave has to adapt and move stuff around. When I watched him hacking into the 02 and the W tank previously I knew he'd be really good at this model - so thats why I asked him if he'd be up for doing it. 

 

This is a colour slide I bought from ebay of 32401 at Brighton in the condition aimed for. C2X 32440 is behind showing the same boiler and smokebox design.

[DLT]

Replacement footplate has been sawn and filed from fibreglass PCB, note the various chamfers to clear the coupling rods and crankpins.  A few small mods were done to the rear of the frames (compare with previous photos) in order to accommodate a flat solid footplate.  

Still a couple of slots needed to clear the radial wheels.

 

 

 

 

 

That's all for tonight I think.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[clarkeeboy56]

Replacement footplate has been sawn and filed from fibreglass PCB, note the various chamfers to clear the coupling rods and crankpins.  A few small mods were done to the rear of the frames (compare with previous photos) in order to accommodate a flat solid footplate.  

Still a couple of slots needed to clear the radial wheels.

 

IMG_0694 small.jpg

 

IMG_0695 small.jpg

 

That's all for tonight I think.

Cheers, Dave.

Hi Dave, As a newby at this game, I have to ask...    I've not seen the use of PCB as a building material on any of the builds here! Very innovative (well it is to me anyway!) Why have you used it, instead of say brass sheet?  And what benefits are there for using it instead of brass?  

Many thanks!

[DLT]

Hi Dave, As a newby at this game, I have to ask...    I've not seen the use of PCB as a building material on any of the builds here! Very innovative (well it is to me anyway!) Why have you used it, instead of say brass sheet?  And what benefits are there for using it instead of brass?  

Many thanks!

 

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the question.  PCB provides a strong and rigid "base" (as long as its the fibreglass type) on which to build your loco, both upwards and downwards.  Its easy to cut and file to a clean smooth edged finish, and can be drilled, countersunk by hand etc.

It makes a great  alternative to a flimsy thin brass assembly for a footplate.  

My preference is to build a series of sub-assembles that can be screwed together for final assembly (and taken apart again if needed) and everything is fixed to the PCB footplate.

Another advantage of PCB is that you can use the footplate as an actual circuitboard if you so wish, by cutting isolation gaps you can route power along it to reduce the amount of trailing wires.  Very useful with DCC!

 

There's further details of my use of PCB on page 17 & 18 of my narrow gauge thread here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-a-new-hunslet/page-17

 

Does that explain it?

All the best, Dave.

[clarkeeboy56]

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the question.  PCB provides a strong and rigid "base" (as long as its the fibreglass type) on which to build your loco, both upwards and downwards.  Its easy to cut and file to a clean smooth edged finish, and can be drilled, countersunk by hand etc.

It makes a great  alternative to a flimsy thin brass assembly for a footplate.  

My preference is to build a series of sub-assembles that can be screwed together for final assembly (and taken apart again if needed) and everything is fixed to the PCB footplate.

Another advantage of PCB is that you can use the footplate as an actual circuitboard if you so wish, by cutting isolation gaps you can route power along it to reduce the amount of trailing wires.  Very useful with DCC!

 

There's further details of my use of PCB on page 17 & 18 of my narrow gauge thread here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-a-new-hunslet/page-17

 

Does that explain it?

All the best, Dave.

Many thanks Dave, Yes indeed that explains it perfectly! I had in the meantime gone back to your O2 build after I saw mention of that. Plus the link to the build in the Narrow Gauge thread.  All very clever and very inspiring!  Keep up the good work - I'm finding this thread incredibly absorbing!!

[N15class]

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks for the question.  PCB provides a strong and rigid "base" (as long as its the fibreglass type) on which to build your loco, both upwards and downwards.  Its easy to cut and file to a clean smooth edged finish, and can be drilled, countersunk by hand etc.

It makes a great  alternative to a flimsy thin brass assembly for a footplate.  

My preference is to build a series of sub-assembles that can be screwed together for final assembly (and taken apart again if needed) and everything is fixed to the PCB footplate.

Another advantage of PCB is that you can use the footplate as an actual circuitboard if you so wish, by cutting isolation gaps you can route power along it to reduce the amount of trailing wires.  Very useful with DCC!

 

There's further details of my use of PCB on page 17 & 18 of my narrow gauge thread here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-a-new-hunslet/page-17

 

Does that explain it?

All the best, Dave.

Do you not find it looks very thick once the valances have been added. Bit like cast white metal no thin crisp footplate edge.

I would be tempted if using it, to add a brass foot plate to the top and the valances to the side of it. It will then stiffen the whole thin up without looking unrealistically thick.

But to be honest a brass foot plate with buffer beams and valances soldered in place is amply strong enough.

[Adam]

Do you not find it looks very thick once the valances have been added. Bit like cast white metal no thin crisp footplate edge.

I would be tempted if using it, to add a brass foot plate to the top and the valances to the side of it. It will then stiffen the whole thin up without looking unrealistically thick.

This is exactly what David did with the O2 - the extra bulk is probably helpful with the array of whitemetal castings I'd reckon.

 

Adam

[Daddyman]

This is exactly what David did with the O2 - the extra bulk is probably helpful with the array of whitemetal castings I'd reckon.

 

Adam

Yes, see post 730 onwards (page 30) 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos-e5x-from-wills-e5-kit/page-30&do=findComment&comment=1999289

 

And have more faith in genius next time! 

Edited November 24, 2016 by Daddyman

[DLT]

Hi Peter,

 

As the Guys have said, the edges of the board ARE the valences, and a thin layer of brass/nickel-silver added to the top (next job) completes the footplate.

Don't forget this is 4mm scale, where the minimal depth of the valance provides precious little bracing for the footplate, which in turn needs rigid support during assembly to reduce the risk of a wonky model.  Hence my previous use of wooden "cradles".

These pictures of the O2 construction should illustrate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[N15class]

Hi Peter,

 

As the Guys have said, the edges of the board ARE the valences, and a thin layer of brass/nickel-silver added to the top (next job) completes the footplate.

Don't forget this is 4mm scale, where the minimal depth of the valance provides precious little bracing for the footplate, which in turn needs rigid support during assembly to reduce the risk of a wonky model.  Hence my previous use of wooden "cradles".

These pictures of the O2 construction should illustrate it.

 

IMG_8512 small.jpg

 

IMG_8513 small.jpg

 

P1060322 small.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

Thanks for clearing that up. I have seen it used as is as and it looks awful. I found in 4mm that sometimes using unequal L,shaping the long leg to make the valances. When soldered on they really stiffened things up.

 

The O2 looks nice. I need to build one, not sure if it will be kit or scratch built. Will see when the time comes.

[jrg1]

Valences can be a problem.  I took a hint from 92220 on RMWeb, and use square section brass tube for valences-either as a valence, or soldered behind an etched valence.  Either way, the footplate is much more rigid, especially after the buffer beams are also fixed in place.

[Daddyman]

Valences can be a problem.  I took a hint from 92220 on RMWeb, and use square section brass tube for valences-either as a valence, or soldered behind an etched valence.  Either way, the footplate is much more rigid, especially after the buffer beams are also fixed in place.

Yes, a good idea, and easy to lay down a valance made of square section. It's part number Q01010D for 1mm square from Eileen's. You can also use their 1mm x 0.5mm strip, which it a bit more realistic than the square section if you ever see the underneath of the loco. The .5mm edge makes it easier to lay down than most valances supplied in kits, but not as easy as the square section - a sort of half-way house. Part number F01005D. 

 

However, none of this works if you have a curly end to the valance. For this I've used a long straight 1mm backing strip, with the straight (centre) section of the valance made from 1.5mm straight strip (it's for an NBR loco), 0.3mm thick, and then the ends shaped from 10 thou squares, also 0.3mm thick and also laid against the backing strip. The fact that there is no difference in thickness between the parts made of 0.3mm, and the fact that they both lie against the 1mm strip, means a neat joint. Before and after photos below. 

 

[jrg1]

Yes, a good idea, and easy to lay down a valance made of square section. It's part number Q01010D for 1mm square from Eileen's. You can also use their 1mm x 0.5mm strip, which it a bit more realistic than the square section if you ever see the underneath of the loco. The .5mm edge makes it easier to lay down than most valances supplied in kits, but not as easy as the square section - a sort of half-way house. Part number F01005D. 

 

However, none of this works if you have a curly end to the valance. For this I've used a long straight 1mm backing strip, with the straight (centre) section of the valance made from 1.5mm straight strip (it's for an NBR loco), 0.3mm thick, and then the ends shaped from 10 thou squares, also 0.3mm thick and also laid against the backing strip. The fact that there is no difference in thickness between the parts made of 0.3mm, and the fact that they both lie against the 1mm strip, means a neat joint. Before and after photos below. 

 

20161023_183037small.jpg

A good solution, although I found with curly ends that extending the square tube to the buffer beam behind the valence worked as well.

[hayfield]

Hi Peter,

 

As the Guys have said, the edges of the board ARE the valences, and a thin layer of brass/nickel-silver added to the top (next job) completes the footplate.

Don't forget this is 4mm scale, where the minimal depth of the valance provides precious little bracing for the footplate, which in turn needs rigid support during assembly to reduce the risk of a wonky model.  Hence my previous use of wooden "cradles".

These pictures of the O2 construction should illustrate it.

 

IMG_8512 small.jpg

 

IMG_8513 small.jpg

 

P1060322 small.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

 

Dave

 

I remember seeing the first post when you built the 02 though some how completely (like most things ) forgot about it. I have a Comet chassis for a 14xx which is fine for the Airfix body, but the old K's kits footplates are 2 mm too short, rather than hack a lump off the chassis this seems to be a much better method. Can you point us to suppliers of both PCB sheet and the metal sheets please

[DLT]

Dave

Can you point us to suppliers of both PCB sheet and the metal sheets please

 

Maplin for the PCB,  http://www.maplin.co.uk/  search for "pcb board".  

Double sided (copper on both sides) or single-sided comes in a variety of sizes:  http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/305x203mm-fibreglass-double-sided-pcb-board-fa59p  with or without light-sensitive coating for circuit etching  http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/160x100mm-fibreglass-pre-sensitised-double-sided-pcb-board-fa62s  The dark coating is useful for marking out with a scriber, and it washes off with solvent or white spirit.

 

As for brass sheet, there are several suppliers:

My local model shop http://www.trainsandtrack.co.uk/ stocks the K & S range of metals, and is always my first port of call.

K & S is available mail-order from Shesto: https://www.shesto.co.uk/craft-model-and-hobby/materials-components/

Or there's Eileens Emporium https://eileensemporium.com/,

Metalsmiths do brass & Nickel-Silver: http://www.metalsmith.co.uk/

 

Cheers, Dave.

[N15class]

Yes, a good idea, and easy to lay down a valance made of square section. It's part number Q01010D for 1mm square from Eileen's. You can also use their 1mm x 0.5mm strip, which it a bit more realistic than the square section if you ever see the underneath of the loco. The .5mm edge makes it easier to lay down than most valances supplied in kits, but not as easy as the square section - a sort of half-way house. Part number F01005D. 

 

However, none of this works if you have a curly end to the valance. For this I've used a long straight 1mm backing strip, with the straight (centre) section of the valance made from 1.5mm straight strip (it's for an NBR loco), 0.3mm thick, and then the ends shaped from 10 thou squares, also 0.3mm thick and also laid against the backing strip. The fact that there is no difference in thickness between the parts made of 0.3mm, and the fact that they both lie against the 1mm strip, means a neat joint. Before and after photos below. 

 

20161023_183037small.jpg

That's why I suggested unequal L. It will give rigidity and shape.

[Daddyman]

That's why I suggested unequal L. It will give rigidity and shape.

Sorry, I misunderstood that. Now I see what you mean I acknowledge that it's very clever indeed: the advantage of being rigid but still looking realistic.

 

Thanks! 

[N15class]

Sorry, I misunderstood that. Now I see what you mean I acknowledge that it's very clever indeed: the advantage of being rigid but still looking realistic.

 

Thanks!

 

Like all things there are more than one way to skin cat. As you see from DLT's builds. I would never of used PCB unless making a master where you need bulk. But Dave uses it to great effect, and seeded some ideas for me on another project.